Check engine light flashes, driving?
I will most certainly do that. It does sound like I can hear noise from the pipe that goes between the back of the heads. Once the truck warms up I can hear the noise from what I think is that valve thing on the top. Does this mean anything? thanks bob
I'm beginning to think it's more of a short than anything else. Are you checking the codes with a volt meter or the check engine light? The jumper should be between the Sig RTN wire and the STI wire of the diagnostic port, that will blink the check engine light.
This is where I got my info from on how to check for codes.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/selftest.html
I hope its not a short. I seem to have more idle isssues when the motor is cold. Would that point towards a short?
http://fordfuelinjection.com/selftest.html
I hope its not a short. I seem to have more idle isssues when the motor is cold. Would that point towards a short?
That's the correct way to check the codes.
Make sure the computer is well grounded, and that the negative cable on the battery has a good connection. Test the resistance through the negative battery cable to see if it has corroded internally. A bad ground can cause lots of problems as well.
Make sure the computer is well grounded, and that the negative cable on the battery has a good connection. Test the resistance through the negative battery cable to see if it has corroded internally. A bad ground can cause lots of problems as well.
I did check for loose grounds but I did not measure them. I did find the bat. grd was loose where it bolts to the block but this was after I was half way into changing sensors. I found the loose grd when I found the air hose hand come of of the air pump.
That Friday before the weekend the truck would not run good at all no matter what temp or distance I drove. All weekend I worked on it checking things and the truck still would run rich.
When I fixed the air pump hose and tightened the grd cable I could drive the truck again.
The cable does show signs of the plastic covering falling off of it at the block end of it and it has oil all over it.
All the other grds look good and tight. The coil bracket is loose but it has a grd wire attached to it and the firewall. The grd for the computer looks good.
The truck came from out west some where and I am not sure where. So everything is real clean looking on the truck.
Is it possible to have a computer that is for a different sea level or something? I see there are many different computers for my year truck.
I also read that it is unlikely a computer failure as well. So I will hold of on buying that new for now.
That Friday before the weekend the truck would not run good at all no matter what temp or distance I drove. All weekend I worked on it checking things and the truck still would run rich.
When I fixed the air pump hose and tightened the grd cable I could drive the truck again.
The cable does show signs of the plastic covering falling off of it at the block end of it and it has oil all over it.
All the other grds look good and tight. The coil bracket is loose but it has a grd wire attached to it and the firewall. The grd for the computer looks good.
The truck came from out west some where and I am not sure where. So everything is real clean looking on the truck.
Is it possible to have a computer that is for a different sea level or something? I see there are many different computers for my year truck.
I also read that it is unlikely a computer failure as well. So I will hold of on buying that new for now.
I am amazed at how many issues there are out there that just can't or haven't been answered. Its just a car with a few simple things to it. It shouldn't be this difficult for people. One guy said his check engine light has been on for over a year or something like that.
UPDATE:
Well I swapped out the new autozone sensor on the EGR valve with the old Ford one and it seems to have stopped the check engine light from flashing but I still have an idling problem that seems to be related to cold start ups so far.
Once the truck is warm it will idle in gear with no problem but starting it up cold is another story.
I am not sure if the computer needs a little more time to set itself or what but I am running out of options.
Well I swapped out the new autozone sensor on the EGR valve with the old Ford one and it seems to have stopped the check engine light from flashing but I still have an idling problem that seems to be related to cold start ups so far.
Once the truck is warm it will idle in gear with no problem but starting it up cold is another story.
I am not sure if the computer needs a little more time to set itself or what but I am running out of options.
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