Unless a trailer has a lot of tongue weight like a toy hauler they don't behave real well without weight distribution past a certain length/weight. If I am hitting the interstate 65mph+ I'll use mine, otherwise local towing under 2hrs and under 65 I use the bw stow and go.

Love the bw and am constantly flipping 2 5/8 to 2" and height up/down depending on my rv, rzr flatbed or fishing boat. Super handy

 

BTW, I know it's a bit more expensive than the B&W, but I love my Curt adjustable channel mount with the dual ball. For times I do not need anti-sway and or weight distribution, this is the one I use.
Just be aware, it is HEAVY AF.
However, that's a good thing. It's built solid and I've never had a problem with it.
One thing to remember. Although I see people do it all the time, many US States (but not all IIRC and no idea on Canadian laws) require that you remove the draw bar if you are not actively towing something. This means you need to remove this beast every time you stop towing and stow it in the bed or back seat area. If you tow on a semi regular basis, I guess this means you can skip arm day though...

 

Unless you're needing a hitch that'll double as a single tooth soil/pavement ripper, or you are planning on lifting your truck, I'd recommend the 5" drop.

 

Which states require this?

 

Iowa has a law on the books. Indiana is pretty strict on it, but no law, it is enforced on a "troopers discretion" level, when I drove it Indiana to buy my TT, there was a document from the state saying that anything over 3k it was required, California is 5k plus. Florida and a few others have rules on weight distribution and sway.
It's always good to check your route for local towing laws and regulations.

 

there are so many products which address different concerns......

I bought this one which lets me adjust my height and maintains the max tow rating my truck is capable of. my truck is a drw lifted 4" on 37" wheels so I am at +7" height than stock.

3" Extreme Duty Adjustable 12" Drop Hitch

Introducing the last hitch you will ever need!

*See Last Image For Sizing Chart

3" Extreme Duty 12" Drop or Rise Hitch
Class 5 Hitch
Towing Capacity:
2" Ball: 12,000lbs
2 5/16" Ball: 36,000lbs
6,000lb Tongue Weight Capacity
7 Easily Adjustable Ride Heights
Can Be Used in the Drop or Rise Position and Maintain the Same Weight Capacity
Durable Black Textured Powder Coat
Exceeds SAE-J684 Testing Requirements
Weight: 105lbs
Specifications:
5/16" Channel
3" Inside Channel Width
3" Solid Steel Shank
Solid Steel Support Bar
5/8" Mounting Holes
2 5/16" and 2" Dual Ball Mount Easily Flips to Adjust
1/2" Thick Full Length Gusset
3" of Steel Past Pin Hole to Completely Fill Receiver
Corrosion Resistant Pins
Includes:
(1) 3" Solid Steel Hitch
(1) Standard Dual Ball Mount
(2) Heat Treated Corrosion Resistant 5/8" Pins
(2) R-Clips
Sold As A Kit
Made in the USA
Unlike any other hitch on the market today, this extreme duty adjustable hitch does the work of 10! The dual ball mount is a 2-ball platform that fits in the adjustable channel of the hitch. The hitch ***** are welded together onto the solid steel platform for maximum strength and stability, and the extreme duty hitch shank is solid steel all the way through with chamfered edges so that they slide in and out of your hitch receiver. The shank also comes with two pin holes for more adjustment options. For added protection, the hitch is finished with a durable corrosion-resistant powder coat.

If you should need additional Truck Parts and Accessories, please don't hesitate to call our toll-free number 1-888-888-7990

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/3-e...ent=Big%20Rigs

 

Interesting. I suspect you'd have to try pretty hard to get cited over for this...especially towing a 7k trailer with a HD pickup.

Are there any folks here that have been cited for this?

 

Citations I think are least of the worries. Insurance companies will pick anything to deny a claim.

 

Truth
Some idiot tried to cause an accident (or carjack) me near Chicago. They pulled in front of me on the interstate and slammed on their brakes. I braked and dove for the shoulder and then they went to the shoulder and tried again. I got rear ended, pushing my boat forward on the trailer. They took off once they realized they had caused a wreck and they initiated it...

One of the first things the insurance company wanted to know was the ratings of my trailer and tow vehicle, including the hitch and draw bar.

 

Understood, but I'm looking for someone to provide some experience with getting pulled over and cited for not using a WDH when towing a non-commercial recreational vehicle that is way below spec of a HD truck.
Sounds like a horrible situation. Were you within tow limits and did insurance deny your claim?

 

One reason I have cameras in all 4 of our vehicles.

 

AI Overview
There are no specific federal or state laws in the US that mandate the use of a weight distribution hitch (WDH). Instead, laws focus on towing safety, such as maximum trailer weight, brakes, and safety chains. WDH requirements are generally determined by the vehicle's trailer weight ratings (tongue weight), not state laws.
Oliver Travel Trailers
Oliver Travel Trailers
+4
Key Considerations Regarding WDH Usage:
Safety Threshold: A WDH is typically recommended when the loaded trailer tongue weight exceeds 50% of the towing vehicle's tongue weight capacity.
Handling Issues: If your trailer tongue weight is heavy (e.g.,




lbs), it causes the rear of the vehicle to sag and front to rise, affecting braking and steering, which necessitates a WDH.
Equipment Regulations: Some states have specific regulations on trailer weight, brakes, and equipment for heavy loads, which could indirectly mandate better, more stable equipment to prevent sway.
ProPride Hitch
ProPride Hitch
+4
Disclaimer: Always check local state towing regulations or your vehicle's owner's manual for specific towing requirements.

 

Must have been ChatGPT, it always misses things:

**Very few U.S. states explicitly require a weight distribution hitch (also called a weight equalizing hitch) by law.** There is no federal requirement, and most states focus instead on trailer brakes, safety chains, breakaway switches, and overall safe towing practices rather than mandating weight distribution hitches.

### Iowa: The Main State with a Specific Requirement
**Iowa** is the clearest example where state law requires a **weight equalizing hitch with sway control** for certain trailers.

- According to Iowa Code § 321.430: Every trailer, semitrailer, or travel trailer with a **gross weight of 3,000 pounds or more** must be equipped with brakes (adequate to control/stop the vehicle, with a separate/auxiliary means of application from the towing vehicle's cab or self-actuating brakes) **and** a weight equalizing hitch with sway control.
- This does **not** apply to trailers or semitrailers towed by a truck or truck tractor (those only need to meet the brake requirements).
- "Gross weight" here refers to the trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) or actual gross weight.

This requirement is frequently discussed in RV and towing forums, and Iowa also has administrative rules (e.g., 761 IAC Chapter 453) that define and approve types of weight equalizing hitches.

### Other States
- **California**: Some sources mention that a weight-distributing hitch is required for trailers over 5,000 lbs (in the context of hitch types or safety). However, official references more commonly address hitch classes (e.g., SAE Class ratings for different gross trailer weights) and safety chains rather than explicitly mandating weight distribution features for all setups. Always check the California Vehicle Code for your specific trailer/tow vehicle combination.
- **Florida and others**: Several states "enforce strict weight distribution rules" for stability and to prevent sway, but this generally means you must ensure proper load balance and safe towing—it does **not** legally require a specific weight distribution hitch device in most cases.
- No comprehensive list exists of many states requiring WDHs. Sources (including hitch manufacturers) consistently note that there are **no broad federal or widespread state mandates** for weight distribution hitches, though local/city rules or vehicle manufacturer recommendations can create additional obligations.

### Important Notes
- **Vehicle manufacturer recommendations** are often stricter than state laws. Many half-ton trucks (e.g., F-150, Silverado 1500, Ram 1500) recommend or require a weight distribution hitch when tongue weight exceeds ~500 lbs or when towing heavier trailers (often over 5,000 lbs) to avoid excessive rear sag, poor handling, and potential warranty issues. Heavy-duty trucks have higher thresholds.
- **Best practice (not law)**: Experts and safety organizations strongly recommend a weight distribution hitch (with sway control) whenever tongue weight causes noticeable squat, the trailer is more than ~50% of the tow vehicle's weight, or for any trailer over ~5,000–6,000 lbs to improve stability, braking, and steering.
- **When traveling**: You must generally comply with the laws of the states you drive through. If towing through Iowa with a qualifying trailer, plan to use a compliant weight equalizing hitch with sway control.
- Laws can change, and enforcement may depend on an officer's judgment regarding "safe operation." Always verify with the specific state's DMV, DOT, or vehicle code (e.g., search for "trailer hitch requirements [state]").

For the most accurate info, check your **tow vehicle's owner's manual**, the trailer's specifications, and the official statutes of the states you'll be in (especially Iowa). Sites like etrailer.com or RV forums can provide model-specific guidance, but they aren't a substitute for official legal sources. If you're in or near **West Virginia** (your location), note that WV does not appear to have a specific WDH mandate—standard brake and chain rules apply. Safe travels!

 

Yes, I was well within limits and things went pretty well. No one was hurt and only property was damaged, so it could have been a heck of a lot worse. Things can always be fixed or replaced

Have I seen someone on the side of the road that DEFINITELY needed a WDH on a non-commercial vehicle? Yes (front pointed to the sky, tail to the ground and the truck and trailer made a nice V shape. Do I know for a fact that it was the reason they were pulled over? Nope, sure don't, but I REALLY hope that got added on or at least explained to them why they were going to get one...

That said, for the OP's questions, I would recommend they get something like an Equal-i-zer hitch, which is dead simple to add to a trailer with just a few bolts and will unbolt easily too. It's not the best one out there, but it does do something.
WDH helps, but anti-sway is the big one. If your trailer is swaying, it's because it's unstable and can eventually get to the point where your truck...no matter how big your truck is...is going to get yanked around by that trailer. Ideally, the trailer is loaded so that it never goes unstable, but the fact is, any inexperienced...or even very experienced...person makes mistakes. They load it up, they think they are good, and whoops, that trailer is swinging hard, even with 10 percent tongue weight (Happened to me on a cross country move and yes, we weighed it prior to starting out, fully loaded)

I would suggest using WHD on any trailer that requires brakes. (and replace surge brakes with electric over hydraulic for boat trailers). Trailers with surge breaking can't use a WDH IIRC.

If you can afford a 60-100k truck so you can pull something, then you should take the time and money to ensure you are using proper equipment when doing so. Buying the truck is the first step, ensuring it's equipped to correctly do the job is the next step.

I've seen people (my idiot of a brother) use a 6k 2" ball on a 6.8k trailer (misremembered weight) and a 5k draw bar on that same trailer because "that's what they had down a the home despot" and the trailer store is just too darn expensive...this was 30 bucks and what they want to sell me is 300. Yet they talk about adding on daylighters or other light bars, winches, and fancy aftermarket toys like it's nothing...

 

It depends on what your needs are. I have a VERY low-slung car hauler that a 7" drop almost isn't enough drop for it with my truck (and almost hasn't been for my last 3 trucks - I've had the hitch a while now). For every other trailer I pull, you're right, a 5" drop would be adequate. But occasionally the need for more drop comes along.