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Does anyone have any advice on changing tires on a set of lock ring wheels? Mine are the Firestone RHP design. The problem I’m having is the tire wants to sit in the groove for the ring, making it difficult to seat the ring in place. Are there any tricks to it? The tires I’m trying to mount are 235/85.
Put a couple of wood blocks under the wheel center so that the back side of the wheel is 2” or so off the floor. This will let the tire sag down, so it should clear the lock ring groove.
You may want to get 3 C clamps and squish the tire a bit.
As usual, make sure the lock ring grooves are clean and in good condition, lock rings as well. Don’t beat the rings up, you should be able to seat them with your booted foot. Hammer and block of wood if it’s really tight.
Don’t try to use radial tires on these wheels. Bias ply only. Tube type tires with a flap (tube protector) only.
If you’ve never done one before, or feel uncomfortable with them, go to a tire store.
Last edited by rdixiemiller; Mar 26, 2026 at 12:15 PM.
Take them to a truck tire shop, along with tubes, inner protector sleeves, and let it become their problem. You’ll thank yourself.
I’m starting to think this is the way to go. They’re a lot more trouble than I thought they’d be. I’m going to give the truck shop up the road a call in a bit and see what they say. With all the silage trucks and farm trucks around here still running daytons, and lock rings, I’d be surprised if they won’t mount them.
Last edited by OldFerd352; Mar 27, 2026 at 06:44 AM.
Reason: Punctuation
When I was living in Lynchburg VA briefly back in the early 90's I had a '69 Chevrolet C20 with split rims that needed a tire. I went to this guy who did retread tires; a one-man shop. He put the tire on the ground stepped on it and with an axe-like hammer the size of a sledge hammer with a blunt wedge on one end he gave the tire a whack right on the rim, between his two feet. I was very impressed. He knew by muscle memory where to strike the tire and not hit the rim or his feet. That was how he broke the seal. No one will touch split rims in CA. I believe these differ from the lock rims you are referring to and what my 1966 F250 has.
Well, I removed two more wheels to break them down and get them ready for paint and found the worst. RUST! Both of the rims I took off have holes rusted straight through, both around the valve stem. I’m assuming this probably can’t be fixed? Even if it was fixable, would balancing be an issue? Also, when I mount the other two wheels that are in good shape should I balance them? They weren’t balanced before and I doubt my truck will make it much past 55 with the 5:28 rear gears in it.
Pics of the carnage:
Last edited by OldFerd352; Mar 30, 2026 at 08:09 AM.
They can be fixed, but probably not worth it. If you have to pay someone to do the work, it will be more than the cost of a new wheel most likely.
If you’re a good welder, you can fix it. I’ve done two 9N Ford tractor wheels that were rusted out worse than that (palm of your hand sizes holes at the stem). Of course, a tractor is much slower than a truck…
This rust is common on tube type wheels. Since it’s a lock ring wheel, it runs a flap to protect the tube. The flap will actually accommodate a pretty good bit of rust pitting, and the valve stem hole can be rusted oversized and still run ok.
So, yes they can be fixed. Is it worth the cost if you can’t do it yourself? Up to you.
https://youtu.be/to_VnGl8e_A?si=wNVw8MmtUbGp3mzL
this is a decent repair video.
Last edited by rdixiemiller; Mar 30, 2026 at 10:19 AM.
Reason: Added a link
