High rpm
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3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
High rpm
I am currently having issues with excessively high rpm. At start up they run up to 2200 and are at a steady 1100 while idleing. I changed the EGR sensor, idle position sensor, idle air control valve and see no broken and cracked vacuum lines.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 1,738
Likes: 383
You have a leak somewhere. It could be one or both intake gaskets, It could be any of the vacuum lines if you haven’t replaced them yet. Take a coke can and cut a 3” square. Place it between the throttle body and idle air controller. No change? Move it to between the EGR and intake. No change, look at the throttle bores in throttle body. Are they gummed up and not allowing the blades to fully close?
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,822
Likes: 2,433
Please stop replacing parts. Did you have engine off fault codes for those parts? Did they test as being bad?
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 470
Likes: 90
It's not always mentioned, but the order is:
Check codes.
Reseat the connector for the suspect component(s). Spraying either contact cleaner or WD-40 into the pins and sockets to help clean any funk.
Clear codes and test drive.
Check codes.
Same code, test the component(s).
If the component tests good, leave it. The problem is elsewhere - grounds, component activation signal, other component, PCM capacitors (it's time for everyone to check these), etc.
If the component tests bad, swap in your spare (you do grab spare sensors and stuff when you go to the u-pull-it yard, right?), or order a Motorcraft replacement, if available.
Clear codes and test drive.
Check codes.
Grab a beer and pat yourself on the back for another job well done, or start over with new code(s).
Check codes.
Reseat the connector for the suspect component(s). Spraying either contact cleaner or WD-40 into the pins and sockets to help clean any funk.
Clear codes and test drive.
Check codes.
Same code, test the component(s).
If the component tests good, leave it. The problem is elsewhere - grounds, component activation signal, other component, PCM capacitors (it's time for everyone to check these), etc.
If the component tests bad, swap in your spare (you do grab spare sensors and stuff when you go to the u-pull-it yard, right?), or order a Motorcraft replacement, if available.
Clear codes and test drive.
Check codes.
Grab a beer and pat yourself on the back for another job well done, or start over with new code(s).
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