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Well the bullnose is running like a top so now it is time to put the workhorse in the shop.
Going to rebuild the trans. Eighth digit on the vin is "Y" as it is a 4.9 300 I6 accompanying the E4OD.
I want some slight upgrades. I would go all out but it is only 2wd so no matter how much pull power I put behind it she hampers herself there. I am open to suggestions. I have found some threads mentioning a trans tugger kit but the links are dead. Please smile upon me oh wise ones and impart your sacred wisdom.
Precision makes nice paper and rubber kits. I prefer Alto HEG clutches for most builds, obviously one will want a steel module while apart. Transtar sells parts, just know what you want first. See if you have a local converter shop to save cash, just needs a heavy duty clutch. Stock cover is fine.
Hand inspect all items. You need to consider finding the latest E4 you can as a core due to the year to year updates this unit had...plus it saves downtime.
See if you have a local converter shop to save cash, just needs a heavy duty clutch. Stock cover is fine.
I have a small shop and Mercedes have a serious shuddering problem with their converters. I called the local [fairly large] transmission builder and asked them if they rebuild converters. They said no, but they did tell me who their supplier was. I ended up using them and saved my clients $1k. That and if I can get the converter to them by 8AM, they have it rebuild and ready to install by 3pm. I am small, but they treat me like I am their best account. They rebuilt my E4OD with the billet stuff for half the price I could get on the internet.
It is weird, but the two local places that rebuild converters are just tiny warehouses with no real name out front. You'll probably have to search, but it's worth it.
Mine does my ZF converter rebuilds with restalls for $400 OTD, found them near the old 1/8 mile strip and our dirt track! Pays to ask around for sure, way better deal than Transtar.
If the cost is fair, do a billet cover for the E4 converter. Also may be worth eying ebay for NOS stuff, I have grabbed paper and rubber kits for $20 before!
Do the MB ones shudder due to a PWM apply? I know that tears up 4R100 units, 4L60E, and the 6L80E.
Mercedes converters are never fully locked. Yes, PWM. The Germans believe the client would feel harshness and that would not be acceptable. Mercedes does their own transmissions and I admire that, but they are very stubborn.
My experience is that if you use 'ShudderFixx' it might fix it. If it does not, the converter needs to be rebuilt. I asked the rebuilder and he stated the clutches just wear out. If the vehicle has 165k or more, ShudderFixx does not fix it.
I am not a snake oil believer, but if you have a shudder [including transfer cases] this snake oil seems to work. Too cheap and easy not to try it. Takes just minutes of driving to know it works or not.
Is your local rebuilder look like a sweat shop? Dark lighting, cold in the winter, hot in the summer, humid? I swear, the two I have been in are that way. Darn good people and friendly, but if you did not know that, you would probably not walk in.
6L80 is the same, never fully locked so they eat converters 60E and 4R slowly go to full apply stock, any major valve body kit reverts back to an ON/OFF strategy.
Yep, this place is a dumpy building across from an impound yard and a metal scrap up the street! They allowed me to watch the 4HP one be lopped open, neat stuff there! All the clutches hanging on the wall, different converter covers, bearings abound, etc.
Certainly not a trans tech, but I enjoy building them and admiring the engineering behind 'em
Precision makes nice paper and rubber kits. I prefer Alto HEG clutches for most builds, obviously one will want a steel module while apart. Transtar sells parts, just know what you want first. See if you have a local converter shop to save cash, just needs a heavy duty clutch. Stock cover is fine.
Hand inspect all items. You need to consider finding the latest E4 you can as a core due to the year to year updates this unit had...plus it saves downtime.
I have to be honest, transmissions are the one area my trucks I know the least about. I can take one out and put one back in but diag or rebuild is not my area of expertise. I was looking at 97/98 rebuild kits and afte rlooking at what you are saying here, I realize now that there is not a single kit that civers the entire rebuild that I have to get rubbers, pan, convertor, etc all seperate?
I swear the 95MY received most of the updates on the unit, no clue your model year truck. Do some research before you leap, some later bits may not retro with an earlier rebuild kit.
Why I suggest finding late trans as a core to build.
I have to be honest, transmissions are the one area my trucks I know the least about. I can take one out and put one back in but diag or rebuild is not my area of expertise. I was looking at 97/98 rebuild kits and afte rlooking at what you are saying here, I realize now that there is not a single kit that civers the entire rebuild that I have to get rubbers, pan, convertor, etc all seperate?
Smart to run the 4R100 pan has has drain plug, at least the 4x4 one. The gasket on those is also reusable. Note the filter is different on the 4x
Converter will need to be ordered separately if you want one already done or find local place. Transtar is solid and recommend if not one local. No need for some triple clutch guy on the 4.9
Paper and rubber kits can be from about anywhere. Why I suggest looking for an NOS one to save cash. Precision I use.
I have only found steel modules separate from clutch ones. You also have a band, add to your list.
Also recommend an ATSG book to use for data, it shows step by step info as well as torque specs. You will need some tools, especially one to align the pump halves and depress the springs within the clutch drums.
I agree, the band should be replaced, but if you never use the 2 position, the band is never used. You can save money by not replacing it since most people never use position 2.