Bit the bullet and required my ‘64 with a new firewall mounted fuse box. I have headlight power but turn signal (new switch from DC) and brake lights aren’t working, and the key won’t even crank. Kind of a shot in the dark but just putting out some feelers to see what do I need to test to troubleshoot, I have a test light and am new to most of this but wanting to fix it myself.

 

1964 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams - FORDification.info - The '61-'66 Ford Pickup Resource
I don't know why you would move the fuse block, but you will have to run every wire into and out of the new fuse block and switch exactly like it was on the original fuse block.

Good Luck

 

The 1961-1964 trucks had a different setup than 1965-1966. They called the fuse block a Head Lamp Switch Junction Block in the MPC.

C4TZ-11A647-A - BLOCK - HEAD LAMP SWITCH JUNCTION



It seems they used that name since the block was clipped to the top side of the headlamp switch using these two clips on either side of the switch.



The NOS wiring harnesses didn't seem to come with the fuse block, but the fuse block terminals were soldered to the wiring harness. You had to plug the metal terminals into the fuse block in the correct locations to prep it for install.



With the fuse block in that location, it is tough to even see it and in order to replace the fuses or do any maintenance work on it you about have to unclip in and lift it from the headlight switch or remove the switch with the block attached and separate them once removed.

Here's the rub...the fuse block must remain electrically connected to the headlight switch feed for the truck to work correctly. It doesn’t have to be physically attached to the switch, but the same power distribution path must exist as Crop Duster mentioned.

 

These earlier headlight switches contained a self‑resetting circuit breaker and a BAT feed stud that supplies power to the headlights, parking lights, taillights, and dash lights and critically the fuse block feed.

The fuse block then feeds the brake light switch, turn signal flasher, horn relay trigger, wiper switch, heater switch, ignition switch “ACC” and sometimes BAT depending on year.

 

The factory wiring is junk. This is why I will be going with AAW in my 63.

 

I disagree with that blanket statement. Factory wiring was simple and reliable. The failures today come from corrosion, hacked splices, brittle insulation and incorrect rewiring, not from Ford's design being bad. Take an AAW system and put it through the same 60 years of use/abuse and come talk to me after.

 

He’s right.

I have bought both NOS and re-popped sections of replacement harness. Both are fine, with supple insulation.
Problem is hackery over the years, and age related deterioration, which is expected in 60+ year old vehicles.

 

It's ok to disagree.
There’s no reason to run everything through the turn signal switch. There’s a reason why no aftermarket harness makes this unnecessary mistake.

 

They only routed a few things through the turn signal switch, not everything. Right and left front turn lamps, right and left rear turn/brake lamp and brake‑light feed because the switch decides whether the rear bulbs act as brake or turn.

I only point it out because the next person I go to help with an electrical problem might be confused if they read that first.

If you meant the headlight switch, I won't disagree that's not a great idea but that's why it has a self-resetting circuit breaker in them. It doesn't take a complete rewire to take some of the load off of that switch.

 

You’re right, I meant the headlight switch. It’s a terrible design. Back in the day if you wanted to run halogen headlights, you had to upgrade to a relay system to eliminate overloading the circuit breaker in the switch. Mustangs had this same problem.
Having the fuse block attached to the headlight switch on the 63 is also a crap design. I’m actually going to combine parts of a new DC loom with the AAW upgrade.

 

Theres an easier fix than the wholesale rewiring of the vehicle. For me, that is. I replaced bad sections using, as stated, either NOS or reproduction harnesses. They are of equal and excellent quality

The problem lies in adding additional loads to the vehicle, which can overwhelm the stock wiring. Also, how do you easily tie into the stock harness without using many of the barbaric/butchery methods we see here?
But, in good condition, the stock wiring handles the loads it was originally designed for.

A separate auxiliary panel can be added, having the advantage of individual fuses. You can even, if you need to, use a panel that has two sections for keyed hot circuits, or standard circuits. The “new” loads from my auxiliary panel are the RetroSound Radio, a set of driving lights, separately fused circuits for each hi/low beam higher power headlights, and a separate circuit in the camper shell set-up for lights, a Fantastic Fan, a couple 12 volt outlets, then finally and a set of roof marker lights. All this can be removed and returned to stock configuration, if you really want to.

A good number of questions regularly are posted here, on making stock switches, etc., work with new aftermarket harnesses. I don’t hav any such worries, keeping it stock, I just keep adequate spares on hand.

 

My entire truck is apart. There’s no way I’m putting it back together with a 1960s design wiring system.

 

The title of the thread is, “64 rewire.”
The best thing you can do with regard to the original 1960s wiring system is to replace the archaic design.

 

Yep you should be able to fit at least three or four separate systems in there for infotainment, body control, climate control, engine management.... And it will come with the same problems as the rest of the new cars, intermittent problems (undocumented features) and dealership technicians who can't fix it , because it would require more knowledge than plugging in the diagnostic reader... Definitely the best plan for that ARCHAIC vehicle.

Now, in all seriousness I can't help with the rewire, without being there to see and trace power. Having done a couple of vehicles over the years. It's a huge commitment to time and skill. Once you start that project, your in it till it works.

 

My shot in the dark here is simple... How is your new fuse block powered, hopefully by a large fused wire from the solenoid on the firewall... From there it's just make each circuit work properly.

I'm against feeding the new fuse block from the light switch, to much potential for overloading it's capacity, in future circuits.