Hello all,

Hunting for a donor 400 block but have a few 460 blocks i can build. 1978 f250 4wd. I do not have a donor truck, only the 460 Block.. For those that have done this swap, what was the hardest part to source? My guess is noon of my accessories bracket stuff will work?

AC
Power steering,
Alternator?
water pump

fan and shroud should fit?

How many little things am i missing? I talked to a local guy and he said the power steering was the biggest headache?

I know i need a different Distributor, pan, exhaust etc.


did anyone get L&L in frame headers to work?
https://www.landlproducts.com/detail...16&ItemID=1166

 

I did my first one in 1988 and it was all from scratch. I modified both sets of brackets including A/C, bought a new oil pan and put a lot of time into it. just rebuilt the 429 a couple years ago and still have it.

Your ignition will transfer right over including the distributor. exhaust will need modified. you can get a kit for everything else now days.

The 385 series is so much better than the 335 engines it's worth doing if the rig is something you care about and plan to keep in my opinion.

 

When you say 460 blocks do you mean complete 460 engines? The bell housing bolt pattern is the same but all the iron parts are different. I have several of theses swaps 30+ years ago. Someone makes engine mounts now, in the old days we swapped sides and the mounts only lasted for a while due to incorrect angles.

 

I used mounts from a ' 67 Fairlane GT, and I did the same when I rebuilt the engine since it worked. this is what the Ford dealer recommend at the time. if I was doing a conversion now I'd just get the correct mounts.

 

I have only the bare block, anymore,, when i build a motor, i buy a forged rotating assembly and aluminum heads.

So in addition,, i need all the sheet metal,, most like 8-10k easily.

 

I do not have eithe motor mocked up,, what did you need to change on the mounts? relocate bolt holes? I already have the sanden adapter on top of the original york mount.

 

this would work for AC?

https://vintageair.com/ford-429-460-...r-bracket-kit/

 

I basically just took the brackets from both engines and cut and welded where I needed to in order to make them work. it sounds worse than it was.

That bracket for the A/C may work, I have the simple Sanden kit from Original Air that goes on top of the factory bracket on my 429 and my 428.

since the full conversion 335 to 385 kit is available I'd just do that. then exhaust modification would be your only fab work. your fan, shroud, ignition, engine perches and everything else are reused.

 

I'd take a 460 over a 400 every day of the week.
More torque, more HP and better longevity.

 

Is it a auto or manual? I read the post and did see that detail. If mentioned, sorry. If auto (c6) the 460 will bolt in- usually sort of- as long as your torque converter hub and crank pilot are of corresponding size. There were a few different torque converter hub sizes/ crank pilot sizes in the 385 series. My recollection is there were potentially 3 different pilot diameters in a 385 series and since you are purchasing a NEW crank shaft, I have no idea what dimension they would be offering and might just have to obtain and order a converter to match it to be safe. If manual then the pressure plate can occasionally hit the inside of the 400 bell housing and require minor clearance modification. I would recommend a larger radiator than the standard radiator for a 400 however a 400 might have came equipped with a larger radiator. Just something to check. a new engine and a tiny radiator could be less than ideal. If you have a front D60 instead of a d44 the front driveshaft can interfere with 460 exhaust due to the larger housing clearance has been known to be a problem, only on d60 fronts. D44 seems to have much more room. I had a few issues with aftermarket aluminum heads and engine mounts as In a few cases I was forced to install a smaller diameter brake booster as the aluminum heads were much taller than the iron heads in order to accommodate taller rocker arms and taller valve springs I guess. This extra height caused the valve cover to hit the brake booster on the drivers side, a dual diaphragm booster was necessary in order to obtain clearance as they are much smaller in diameter. Good luck.

 

It is a C6, small hub,, Just received the new Hughes convertor on Friday. 2500 stall, 12 inch.

I think I will go back basic with new DSS 13 CC pistons and my cast crank/rods. The motor ran great before. I think the shop installed a windsor ream main in my 335M block and it was crushed.

I might build something else down the road and then I can sell this motor and sleep at night.

Chris

 

May I ask,,

Still no answer if my 400 block is rebuildable,, I keep finding 460 with the serp belt set up.. Is this a win? I know none of my accessories has the proper pulleys. Is it worth the headache?

 

The 400/460 never had a reverse rotation water pump, so a 'clean' single belt serp system isn't really possible. Many of the kits have 2 or 3 serp belts, which kinda defeats the purpose.

 

Never mind me, I have a 351M in the truck, is OEM, and a 400 rebuilt short block on a stand and if the 351M don't fall apart, the 400 will stay on the stand. The 351M has done everything I've asked it to.

What do you plan to ask of whatever you put in? If you just want a 460 for some reason, go for it.

 

The 400 is at a new shop. the first shop decked it .020" and because of piston choices during Covid it is bored .040.
Whoever chamfered the crank did not debur or polish?? resulting in it eating my rod bearings. I have some journals with a significant groove.

Anyway,, if a hone can clean up my .040 without boring i will buy new pistons. I do not know how much my crank has been turned. First shop gave me no paperwork. One of those deals where you just happy to get it back..


I did pick up 2 M blocks with week.. If i need a crank and pistons, I will build a 521 and sell my trickflow heads and cam package.


Chris