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1996 2.3L camshaft retention plate screws

Old Mar 9, 2026 | 10:21 AM
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1996 2.3L camshaft retention plate screws

Cross posted.

So I have a 1996 2.3L that I am putting back together and am looking for some guidance.

I am putting the camshaft back in the head on my 2.3L and I am missing one of the screws that holds the camshaft retainer plate onto the rear of the head. It looks like a 1/4" X 28 screw with an oval head that looks like it has what I describe as a lock washer molded into the screw itself. For the life of me I cannot find a reference to the screw (or the retention plate for that matter) anywhere online.

I assume that I can use another fastener and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for an alternative.

Oh yeah, if anyone also has a proven method for finding a ¼” screw that has fallen into one of the holes on the top of the bellhousing that would be great.

I am also not opposed to and welcome any other tricks, tips, or hazards to avoid while putting the old girl back together.

I am going to try and attach a picture that shows the two screws that I am referring to.

 
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Old Mar 10, 2026 | 04:26 PM
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This is a 1997 exploded view (didn't see one for a 1996) where the fastener you're looking for appears to be item no. 72., aka N604465-S, M6-1.0 x 16mm -- described other places as a pan head screw. I'd think you could find one like it via an internet or hardware search and add a M6 lockwasher ...
 
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 12:02 PM
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Memory from swapping a roller cam into my Lima says they were Allen or Torx pan heads, metric. I would think matching thread and length, getting a high strength fastener should be adequate. No need AFAIK to search for identical parts. As long as the replacement fits and can be torqued, you should be fine. Reaching around and removing blind was a real treat. not.
I do not remember holes in the bell housing that would allow small bolts to fall in. Could the bolt have slid down and landed on the top of the transmission?
tom
 
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 09:02 AM
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Thanks for the info. I was able to find a couple of screws with Allen heads that I think should work. Because the replacement screws do not have what I described as a "molded in lock washer" should I use some thread lock?

I have searched quite a bit on my engine and transmission and have not had any luck finding that damn screw. I really do not feel like separating the bell housing from the block but at the same time don't want to put all the time and energy into getting this girl back together just to have a little screw get bound up in there. I have turned the engine over by hand and did not hear anything falling out for moving around. I guess I can bump it with the starter to see if by chance the screw is hung up somewhere and if the centripetal force will throw it out to the bottom of the bell housing.

I found an example picture of the bell housing with the holes I'm talking about. It looks like one of the two top holes in this example pic is clogged but mine has two open holes. I am about 99% sure that is where it fell.


 

Last edited by 75over77 F100; Mar 17, 2026 at 09:11 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 09:50 AM
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If you want to spin it over and hope on centrifugal force, why not pull the spark plugs so the rpms will be higher. That would help toss the screw/bolt a bit better.
You might be able to remove the dust cover at the bottom of the bell housing, though I do not remember if the Lima has a removable one. If the fastener fell to the bottom of the bell housing, you could separate the engine from the bell housing and hopefully find it at the bottom without a complete removal. Ugh, what a problem.
I remember now that there were plugs in one of the Ranger manual transmissions that would get petrified, crumble, and fall inside... and allow 'stuff' to do the same. But I don't remember the large openings you have. Mine used to get locked where the clutch would not release after a heavy rainstorm. Had to put it in 1st gear, and try to start the engine. That happened a few times, but not for a long time. Given the openings yours has, I would not be surprised if you had similar problems in wet weather...
tom
 
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tomw
If you want to spin it over and hope on centrifugal force, why not pull the spark plugs so the rpms will be higher. That would help toss the screw/bolt a bit better.
You might be able to remove the dust cover at the bottom of the bell housing, though I do not remember if the Lima has a removable one. If the fastener fell to the bottom of the bell housing, you could separate the engine from the bell housing and hopefully find it at the bottom without a complete removal. Ugh, what a problem.
I remember now that there were plugs in one of the Ranger manual transmissions that would get petrified, crumble, and fall inside... and allow 'stuff' to do the same. But I don't remember the large openings you have. Mine used to get locked where the clutch would not release after a heavy rainstorm. Had to put it in 1st gear, and try to start the engine. That happened a few times, but not for a long time. Given the openings yours has, I would not be surprised if you had similar problems in wet weather...
tom
Yeah it has very little compression at the moment since the head is in the bed of the truck .. 😂

Mine does have the inspection cover but even so I have not been able to find the screw. I have fished around with a magnet a lot so I am pretty sure it's not laying on the bottom of the bell housing. That's what makes me think it is hung up on or in something in there. I am still hopeful that I can find it with a magnet.

The replacement screws fit well so I guess I will just use them and some Loctite.



Guess it's time to move forward with putting her back together.
 

Last edited by 75over77 F100; Mar 18, 2026 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 11:59 AM
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When you get it all together, be sure to rotate the crankshaft at least two turns and then re-check that the marks are all still aligned. Much better to find out before you get everything all installed on the engine only to find the timing has slipped and have to take it all apart again. Been there.. Cam back one tooth, had no guts until about 3500 rpm.
tom
 
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