I’ve done a lot of reading in tech folder on steering wonder and suspension, special thanks to all of those that have contributed to that excellent resource over the years. I started with a 2005 XLS Ex 4x4 6.0 diesel, she had really tired springs all the way around and kind of drove like crap. I installed a red top steering box (huge improvement), replaced the tie rods bc they were a little seized and caused some darting when driving straight after the box swap. Driving over some recent snow banks I bottomed out the front suspension and as I’ve been wanting to add some caster shims anyway, I decided to swap out the front springs for stock F-250 V codes with a 2 degree shim (I’ll report where the caster ends up after an alignment). I was hoping to end up with a fairly level look after the install, but now it looks pretty nose high and measures 1.5” higher in the front than the back when measured center of the hub to the bottom of the fender (no plastic flares installed). I’m assuming the fronts will settle a little after some miles, but I’m not sure how much, I’ve only driven it for 2 days and 100 miles so far.

My question to the group is how best to raise the rear for a level ride. I do pull our boat some that has a decent tongue weight so 1/2 -1” higher in the rear unloaded would probably be best. I’m thinking that means raise the rear 2-2.5”. I’m definitely not looking for a “lifted” look, but I didn’t want the suspension to be bottoming out either. I’m just running stock tires and they’re new so I’ll keep it that way for a while. I like the looks of these blocks, but I’m not opposed to new springs in the back if that’s a better solution. https://www.pmfsuspension.com/Ford-1...ocks_p_42.html

I’ve run air bags on works trucks before and would prefer a different solution.


Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

get longer shackles and add a block under the axle.

mine looks like this.

 

if you’re towing a trailer with a good tongue weight, you need to upgrade rear springs as well. All the springs on these are just too soft for towing anything substantial. Especially now that you have f250 springs on the front, you need a matching spring rate in the rear. I would do the B code rears with the stock block or if you might want to add airbags later, get those PMF blocks with the airbag tang. That way you’ll have the potential to add bags one day if you need them.
You could do blocks only but then you’ll still sag a lot when towing, so you need a higher spring rate to begin with.

 

Does anyone have any experience with these? Seems like it could be a nice addition if I’m going to be swapping rear springs.

https://www.pmfsuspension.com/08-Spr...99-07_p_8.html

 

Not worth the extra work and I’m not sure if the longer ‘08+ springs and hangers will even fit under an EX.
I would just go with modified B code rears. It’s what I ran on my old EX.

 

Longer rear shackles would actually lower the rear of the rig, they go above the rear springs mount to the spring, so a longer shackle would move the rear of the rear spring upward lowering the rear of the vehicle. A taller block would lift the rear whatever amount over the stock block height the new block is. John’s suspension pictured looks to be completely stock, not exactly sure what he was intending to explain with that picture as it should be exactly the same as the OP’s suspension in question.

 

I'm running "C" code rear (43-1263) with 3" blocks and 43-812 front with 1" zone offroad front shackles. I tow my 2024 Flagstaff classic 826kbs, 1000Lb tongue weight with less than 1" of rear squat. Unloaded I've got a perfect rake, loaded up the truck is basically level.

 

I haven’t used those but rear ride quality isn’t an issue with these really unless you’re trying to make it ride like an Expedition. Front ride quality is the harshest but it’s a leaf spring truck so it is what it is. It can definitely be improved with some f250 springs though.

 

personally I'd ditch those crappy G codes and get some nice B (99-04) or F (05-07) code rear leafs. Do the "Modded B code" swap and call it a day. tons of donor trucks all over the place. Or get new from ATS (their B code equivalent).
Yes the PMF hangers work. yes you can make the 2008+ leafs fit...but they have issues.

It was a thing about 10 yrs ago. very shortly. Died out quickly for 2 main reasons
1. 2008+ leafs have same or higher capacity...but they have much much more deflection when loaded. You'll notice 2008+ trucks tend to squat terribly when loaded down. This was done on purpose by Ford. People wanted Cowboy Cadillacs, so they made the 2008+ ride softer unloaded. Causing squat/lower ride heights when loaded.2. Passenger side AC lines in rear. 2008+ leafs can hit the AC lines and rip them out. Just like overload leafs are known to do if used on 99-07 leafs


FYI: make sure any replacement leafs you use have the overloads removed.