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All depends if you got the room and enough height on the picker. I prefer to pull them together if I'm needing to get them both out. If you have the front clip off, pull them together.
I dont have a big azz cherry picker, so I just pull the engine and drop the tranny out the bottom. For what reason are you pulling them out? If your rebuilding them, I would just pull them separately. That way it can go right to the engine stand.
If by yourself, and without a well equipped shop, it's easier and safer to pull the trans out first
That's a YUGE hump you gotta go over where the radiator support will not bolt out
I would pull the engine and trans together, but I would also pull the core support before. Just my method as its a lot easier when you are doing it alone with a cherry picker. Also if you pull the core support, you can leave the hood on. Just my way of doing it.
I would pull the engine and trans together, but I would also pull the core support before. Just my method as its a lot easier when you are doing it alone with a cherry picker. Also if you pull the core support, you can leave the hood on. Just my way of doing it.
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If you pull a C6 from the bottom you will have to remove the center cross member. The bell housing is to large to clear.
Sorry @fe390pc didn't mean to quote you I was on my phone, I hate phones.
This has been my experience with C6's in these old trucks. In 65 and 66 and maybe 67 if the truck came with a standard transmission the center crossmember was riveted in if it came with an automatic it was bolted in. Possibly by 69 they were all bolted I don't know for sure. Even if it is bolted in removing it isn't easy and reinstalling it is even more difficult. If you don't have a 4-post lift getting that crossmember back in is almost an exercise in futility. On the last and only C6 I will ever remove from the bottom we had to make a spreader with a piece of pipe and all-thread to spread the frame rails enough to re-install the thing. @whitey68 Buy or borrow a heavy-duty hoist and a load leveler what you are dealing with weighs over 800 lbs. If things go wrong, it can knock the bark off of you and or your truck.
Got the them out and on the floor. I cannot find a casting number on this pig any where, I mean no place on the external of the block at all.
just has the normal 352 on the front but on the back of the block it has 66 427 does this mean anything?
So I still haven't found any casting number, and I looked up where to check.
I found the casting date Aug 30 1968
from the flint foundry
casting number on the head and a number on the crank.
It appears someone has been in that engine since it has a double roller timing chain. The casting numbers should be on the right (passenger side) of the block somewhere, but like the head casting they won't tell you much since Ford used the same castings on different engines. Your engine isn't a 427 since it doesn't have cross bolted mains. The only sure way to tell what you have is pull the heads and measure the bore and stroke.
Yeah I'm positive it's not a 427, I have to measure the stroke like you said to see what it is.
The pistons have valve reliefs in them, I pulled two main caps and two rod caps and the bearings looked like the were put in yesterday.
it leaked oil like crazy, oil pan bolt were cranked down, all of them just torqued down. The intale leake at both china walls, had gaskets and gobs of permatex.
timing cover like pan, bolts cranked down, valve covers finger tight.
The good thing is they used all felpro gaskets 🫡, and about 4 tubes of a white permatex like substance 🙄
funny thing, the cam plug was leaking, its installed right looks to have permatex on it , i would have used indian head. one of the core plugs is leaking for the same reason.
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