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It's not SUPPOSED to work that way. But there are shady dealers who will go out of their way to deny warranty claims just based on any modifications. And they count on their customers being too stupid to know it.
While true (the "not SUPPOSED to work that way" part), it's not the dealership that approves or denies a warranty claim. It's the Ford mothership that makes that decision.
However, yes, how the dealership WORDS and COMMUNICATES your issue and their findings can most certainly sway Ford to make a decision one way or the other.
That's why I've always recommended to build a good relationship with your chosen dealership so they are willing to work with and for you, if and when the need arises.
The dealer I bought my truck from regularly has brand new trucks for sale, loaded with aftermarket parts (which is a big market here in Dallas.) I'm assuming they sell them with a factory warranty, etc, etc. There are so many ways to disprove a mod like a high volume oil pan would cause a failure, I don't see how they could argue it. I don't think the shop and/or the mechanics want to deal with aftermarket doodads on the trucks they service, which may or may not been installed by Bubba, if you see what I mean.
As far as I'm concerned, I'd put the pan on now. The ability to drop the oil without having to drop the pan would be worth it right there.
I dont see how a different pan with a drain plug makes it easier to service. Dont you need to drop the pan to change the filter?
Yes but you don’t have to drop the pan with 2 gallons of trans fluid sloshing around. Being able to drain it before dropping the pan makes a difference. Also some people like to drop the fluid without changing the filter at a shorter interval.
I dont see how a different pan with a drain plug makes it easier to service. Dont you need to drop the pan to change the filter?
The filter really doesn't need changing, used filters do a better job anyway. They'll go 200k miles before filling up to the point of actually needing to be changed. The fluid should be changed a lot more frequently though and dropping the pan sucks.
It’s my understanding (a large part of which is from Mark K’s @Mark Kovalsky posts here) that the trans pan’s filter is basically there to catch chunks vs how oil filters stop very tiny particles and that the trans pan filter does not need to be changed frequently if ever over the life of the vehicle even with multiple ATF changes.
That was true until 2008. As a running change in 2008, the rock catcher filter was replaced with a real filter. It filters at least as well as the bypass filter that was in the cooler lines. It's been too many years for me to remember the micron rating, but it will catch very small particles.
The newer filters DOES need to be changed on a regular basis. See your owner's manual.
Last edited by Mark Kovalsky; Mar 5, 2026 at 05:08 PM.
That was true until 2008. As a running change in 2008, the rock catcher filter was replaced with a real filter. It filters at least as well as the bypass filter that was in the cooler lines. It's been too many years for me to remember the micron rating, but it will catch very small particles.
The newer filters DOES need to be changed on a regular basis. See your owner's manual.
Thanks Mark, I love learning something new whenever I can!
I do like the idea of a pan with a drain plug to make periodic fluid changes much less of a mess though, even if the pan still needs removed for the filter change.
According to the 22 manual it's every 150k miles for fluid and filter. I dropped my pan at 45k and installed a new filter and a PPE deep trans pan. Of course I filled it with new fluid too. I plan to do another drain and refill at 75k and do another filter swap and refill at 100 - 110k. The PPE pan will make this easier since it actually has a drain in the bottom of the pan.
According to the 22 manual it's every 150k miles for fluid and filter. I dropped my pan at 45k and installed a new filter and a PPE deep trans pan. Of course I filled it with new fluid too. I plan to do another drain and refill at 75k and do another filter swap and refill at 100 - 110k. The PPE pan will make this easier since it actually has a drain in the bottom of the pan.
Question for you: Since you've already dropped the factory pan at least once... what is the best way to do it, without covering yourself in oil, or breaking the plastic pan?
Question for you: Since you've already dropped the factory pan at least once... what is the best way to do it, without covering yourself in oil, or breaking the plastic pan?
I bought a large plastic tote and placed it under the trans pan, then I cracked the bolts and let it start hanging little by little on one end. It drained kind of slow and it took a while but I finally got it.
Question for you: Since you've already dropped the factory pan at least once... what is the best way to do it, without covering yourself in oil, or breaking the plastic pan?
You didn't ask me, but this is how I did it on my 23. Watched the ARod video and followed suit with the tools I already had. Not a drop spilled.
I wondered how it would work with a gasser... definitely more room with the diesel. That video answered a lot of questions. I don't really understand why Ford made it so difficult to check the fluid level, or even add fluid...
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