I purchased an 06 super cab short cab 4x4 , that had light collision damage , but has been sitting for 3 years .
I have spent endless hours getting educated on the 6.0
truck has an egr delete , and tow tune .
it has not been started for several years ,and I want the consensus of the board , of the safest way to go about a first start.
Internet ,says pull the ficum relay , and disconnect glow plugs , to build oil preasure .
appreciate input .
another note , truck has 3/4 tank of fuel should I add an additive, or drain and refill? Oil and fuel filter change first ...lots of questions .
thank you.

 

Them are good ideas
If it was running when put up shouldn’t take much to get it going again



can you post a picture top engine

 

I get pulling the FICM relay if starting with the key, but not sure why you would need to disable the glow plugs. You could also just use the starter wire next to the passenger side battery to get the same effect unless your using the pcm to monitor.

 

This is just me, but I would sure be wondering about the fuel quality. I would probably be emptying the fuel tank......mainly because YOU don't know the specific history.

My trucks been sitting for about 7 months, and I have no issues starting it anytime and running it, but I know all about it!

 

If it were me

Drain the fuel, blow out or drain the lines if possible. Remove the upper fuel bowl cap and check for any water or condensation, change the fuel filters

Add new fuel

Change the engine oil and filter.

At a minimum you've covered two important things.

Establish oil pressure, start it and let it come to temp gradually with the high idle switch if you have one.

Check the trans level after its been running because the fluid will drain back into the pan from the converter, from sitting so long and add if needed. (I was insinuating a possible leak that will happen when the converter drains back into the pan)

Drive it short distances because again its been sitting 3 years and you want to make sure the brakes work.

Good Luck

 

Drain and refill the tank for sure. I agree with Joe to pull the lines at the secondary housing and front of the HFCM and blow them out also, easy to do and very easy to reprime after, just cycle the key 4-5 times until the pump cuts out and you're all set.

Replace the batteries AFTER you get it going, this is going to be hard on them so if they're at all in ok shape do what it takes to get them through the first start, THEN beat on the new pair if you have to.

 

There is an easier way to build oil pressure for the first start. The reason for turning the glow plugs in the scenario is to use less of the battery's reserve.

I would do it the same way I did when I first started my reworked engine. Leave the relay and glow plug wire attached. Use the starter jumper connection to spin the motor and pressurize the oil. You can use the amount of time in my video as the guide rather than oil pressure. And use another battery with jumper cables, then charge the batteries before the next start.

As far as the fuel situation, the fuel in my tank had sat for 4 years. I had pulled the fuel out when I dropped the tank to install a new fuel level sender, but added 10 gallonsof it back in, added a fuel lubricant, and added 10 gallons of fresh fuel. This is the same I do for my 1952 dozer at the farm, which might sit for 10 years without a refresh of the fuel. It does get anti-algae and the lubricant. Those Detroit 2- stroke injectors are more sensitive to scuffing.

I would change the fuel filters after two wait to start key movements, with the glow plug feed disconnected off the passenger positive terminal. This will move fuel around, and may catch any debris before putting in new filters. You could do more then two fuel pump 20 second engagements, though. But I’m not saying that disconnecting lines, blowing them out, and draining the tank is not the best way.

 

can you by chance show a picture , of where this starter jumper is located , what it looks like ... thank you . Your post and video are very helpful .
I have also subscribed to your channel . Thanks for the insight .

 

Thank you.

Rusty Axlerod has the best series of images years ago on this site.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16220245

 

All fair points Jack.

OP: Super duper nit pick, but if you have a mechanical pressure gauge that fits the oil pressure switch hole I would use that. Dash gauge turns on at something like 8psi so is basically an idiot light.

 

What range sweep gauge should I be looking to use ?
thanks for the tip.

 

Thanks to all that gave advise , the truck started today .
I had mistaken about the time it has sat , not being started , was 5 years .
I followed some of your advise , not all .
I drained the HFCM , No water or debris .
cycled the key a dozen times .
fulled the cap off the engine mounted fuel filter and inspected the fuel and filter in the bowel.
fuel was clean , filter appeared to have just been changed .
2 fresh batteries , and cranked with the bypass lead on the passenger side a dozen or more times in 30 second intervals , watching the factory oil preasure gauge , rest 10 seconds , wash and repeat .
then turned the ignition on , and same proceedure .
it tried to start several times , added 2 jump boxes and same , tried starting .
left for the day , added a charger over night .
today , same charged jump boxes , and with a little struggle , it came to like .
idle a little low at first , then kicked up , nice and smooth .
scan tool , just a generic with many features , and I was able to monitor the engine .
I have 3 glow plug faults , and a cam and crank error .
not sure exactly where to go from here , but I can and will figure it out .
put the Trans in gear , and lot drove it . Drivetrain seems solid . Trans and coolant temperatures on the scan tool were in proper range .
thank you for all of your help .
now to replace the radiator , and send it to the body shop , for a little pull on the inner fender apron and core support.

 

I will add , that it starts pretty easy , if I do 2 2 second cranks .
if I try to do a single crank , it seems like a long crank , but this is my first Diesel , so I am only going by ear , with other trucks I hear .

 

With three failed glow plugs, it will be harder to start at any temperature, especially on the initial start when it hasn't warmed up.

Fixing them can be a PITA because the harness plugs become brittle. Research the issue before jumping in.

 

2 many toys , thank you sir.
I have been researching the topic. .seems the best way to get into the glow plugs , should they ohm out bad , withe the harness test from the glow plug module harness , is through the fender liners . Do you have an opinion , from your experience?