The battery end is not great but should be ok for what he needs to start the motor and see if the charging system works or not.
What I see as bad is them wire strands at the solenoid being a problem.
Is that from the battery cable or some other wires that should be on that post.

IIRC there should be 2 other wires on that post with the battery cable.
1 should be from the ALY out put stud - the red post.
The other should be power to the truck.
I also think both should have fuse links. Maybe 1 of them is burnt for the ALT?
Dave ----

 

That which has been seen cannot be unseen!

I’m seeing several issues that are going to cause you grief. May not be the root cause of the charging problem, but plan to fix them anyway.

Those side terminal adapters look like the threads are bottomed out. Is that a gap between the adapter body and the battery? If so, that is severely reducing the contact area and thus current flow.

Those exposed strands on the red cable at the starter relay? More trouble, get a proper ring terminal on there. Replacing the entire cable may be the easiest option.

Zoom in next to those exposed strands. What’s the smaller black wire? Is that connected to anything? Maybe it’s just the camera angle, but it doesn’t look right.

Get yourself a battery tiedown, too. Ugly things can happen if the battery bounces loose after hitting a pothole or running over a hippy.

 

Its killed two batteries and im on a third alternator all different brand and I know this alternator is fine I've done a voltage test and it sits at 12.3 on and off as said before the battery is receiving no charge from alternator all this wiring if from before I got it few months ago. But if the cable area is the issues then i definitely would love every input on it

 

Have you tested the large output wire on the alternator yet?

 

not sure is it the one that has a nut on it keep the cable on

 

Maybe i can get some info or input on this section of wiring it goes from the alternator to the starter relay(I think thats what that is)

 

See post 5. You can find the correct wiring in the link.
also please put a real lug crimp end on the positive cable at the solenoid.
I believe I showed you how the cables should look.
also do you have the correct battery ground to frame and engine block?

 

with engine running, what is the voltage on the red bolt on the Alternator? It should be above 14.

 

He has already put 3 alternators in it, so his problem is somewhere between the regulator and its wiring. All of which gets cleaned up or eliminated with a 3g upgrade, & those external regulators are a common failure point. I chose the upgrade when i ran into those problems.

 

Yes, the wire that has the nut on it. Looks like you physically followed it to the battery +. But is it electrically good? With the engine off, take your meter or testlight and probe the large wire under the nut on the alternator. With the other lead on the negative of the battery, see if you have 12v there.

If you don't have 12v, there is a problem in that wire. If you do have 12v;

Go down to the regulator. You may have to unbolt it to see it better. The terminals on the regulator are I A S F. If you have a ammeter in the dash, the I terminal will be blank.

The A terminal will have a yellow wire. Check this wire, with the engine off, there should be 12v on the A terminal.

The S terminal will have a lightgreen/red wire on it. With the key off, this wire should have 0v on it. With the key in run, this wire should have 12v on it. This wire comes from the ignition switch and tells the alternator to charge.

The F terminal will go directly to the alternator. If all the other terminals have the correct voltages, the F terminal should have some sort of voltage on it with the engine running. If it has nothing, and all the other terminal voltages were correct, the regulator is bad.

You have to methodically work through this. Fiddling around with the wires you might find a problem, but most likely not. You need to use a meter or testlight.

 

thank you for the detailed rundown ill go through it here soon I hope its on the simpler side for repairs I know nothing are electric work but I did buy it to teach myself this stuff

 

Red circle is getting no volt and I don't really see a way to open blue up to check but I did put my tester to the base metal of it and it is getting 12.2 volts so is everything else only the red wire with the red circle has no current.

 

I want to add a little to Dave's post
That large wire from the ALT stud with the nut that goes to the starter solenoid should have what is called a fusible link.
It is a fuse but you cant really tell if it is bad or not by looking at it. The test Dave posted for testing this wire should tell you if the wire is good or not.
But ........... it may have gone bad and been cut out and why the wire is wrapped around the stud on the solenoid. This should be put back in place or if you have a short could melt wires or burn the truck down.
You can get fuse link wires with the eyelet on 1 end, use a butt connector to join it ti the wire on the ALT, from auto parts stores or Ebay.

Also depending on how you test the F wire from regulator to ALT you may get a fault reading.
I would measure from volts at both the regulator and at the ALT. If the wire is bad and you measure at the regulator you can have volts but not have it at the ALT and the ALT will not charge.
That is also why I said in one of my posts to put 12 volts to the F lug on the regulator but not really a good test if the wire is bad or the ALT is bad.

Follow Daves post as that will get you to what is wrong.
Dave ----

 

I believe that "red circle" "S" terminal, on the solenoid, will only have 12v with the key in the "on" / start, position. Is that what you did ?

Your sentence is kind of hard to understand.


I also have questions about the missing fuse link's. ?

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/cha...tribution.html


Mine is a 86 but here's where my fuselinks attach.

 

As Max said that red circle will only have power when the key is turned to start. If you look on the black part you should see a little "S" and the other stud a "I"

The blue circle connector is the regulator, the gray box.
If you look at the white part of the regulator it has letters that should match what Dave posted for testing.
You can put your test prob in were the wire is or use a paper clip to fit in next to the wire and your meter to the clip.
There should not be a need to remove the plug at this time but if you were to push in on the clips at the top & bottom then pull the plug from the regulator.

Also with the picture I can see you do not have a fuse link on the wire from the solenoid to ALT and should be installed.
Dave ----