1992 e-150 4.9 i6, E40D, 270k miles

Question : How do I install a junkyard steering column into my van such that the "new" column is in the proper position aligned with how my wheels are ?

Bakground : The plastic slider thing that moves the ignition when you turn the key broke in my steering column. I know this is a common issue and have a replacement (note this is NOT the ignition cylinder I am referring to), but from all the parts and manuals diagrams I have the steering column seems like a complicated set of minutae that I don't really want to mess with. Yesterday I pulled a full steering column - steering wheel on it with SRS/airbag still on, all the way to the joint that attaches to the steering gear - from a junkyard. I do not have the key for this junkyard column, also, the junkyard van's wheels seemed to be pointing straight to my eyes.

So to avoid damaging the clock spring on the donor column, and so my van will work correctly in general, how to I install this new column (assuming I will also install a new ignition cylinder in it so I can have the key for it) so that it is aligned properly with the position of my wheels ?

Any input is appreciated.

 

Just install it
The shafts (all 3) will only go together one way from the steering wheel to the steering gear
Basically, they are idiot proof
Have fun

 

Pulling parts from a junkyard is very educational. You already know 80% of the job. You will be OK.

 

Ok thank you very much for the info.

Let me throw another wrench in this, no pun intended. How to I get things aligned correctly if I replace the steering gear and steering column at the same time ?

I should have put this in my original post. Here is the background:

1) Need to repair or replace the steering column --> My steering lock upper actuator assembly has been broken for over a year now and I've been using the ignition switch and a pair of pliers to start/turn off the car.
2) Need to repair or replace the Saginaw Power Steering pump --> I have had no power steering for the last 4-5 months. I think this is actually a steering gear issue but I got a reman pump as well as a rebuild kit for my old pump just because.
3) Need to repair or replace the Steering Gear --> See 2 above, no power steering and leak around the input shaft. I have a donor gear from the junkyard as well as a gear rebuild kit if I were inclined to.

All this to say 4) I have removed the PS pump and gear, and figure while I have that area in the engine bay cleared away, I should do the steering column work.

So to repeat the question because I am overly pedantic, how do I replace the steering gear and steering column at the same time such that everything is aligned as it should be ?

Any info is appreciated.

 

Same way
You CANNOT screw it up
It only goes together one way
The lower (intermediate)shaft only goes on the steering gear one way (D'd shaft)
The column upper intermediate shaft only goes on the lower one way (oblong shaft with a pinch)
Same with the steering wheel, (rounded one side triangle shaft only goes on one way)
Fun stuff, good luck
They make an updated seal for the input shaft of the gear
* I'd overhaul your own gear and not replace it

 

Ok thanks again. So maybe for my understanding my question is now, how if the steering wheel to input shaft of gear only goes together one way, does the steering linkage (and therefore wheel position) align properly when attached to the pitman arm ?

Good to hear about the steering gear rebuild, I purchased a rebuild kit including bearings, and your sentiments confirm what I was thinking. Are Redhead reman's not that good ? How hard will the reman be ? I've watched youtube vids on rebuilding Saginaw gears, but I believe this is a pure Ford gear.

Lastly, I took apart my original Saginaw PS pump and had a few questions:
1) This is a pump where the input shaft is press fit, no keyway. I had to hit it out with a rubber mallet to remove the shaft/pump. Is that normal ? It was pretty tight and all the youtube vids I watched seemed to indicate that once on the step to remove the shaft, I should have been able to sort of press it out with my hand. I will replace the shaft bushing if I rebuild it, but it seems that when I put the shaft in I will have to force it in with something (bearing or bushing driver). That doesn't sound right to have to bang the pump into place. What am I missing ?

2) The rotor, part of the pump was not machine finished, is it supposed to be or am I seeing scoring from a worn out pump ? The stator in which it spins had no scoring and was still machine finished.

Here is the rotor, which is either worn beyond repair or intentionally unfinished. Which is it I don't know how this is supposed to look.


3) Lastly, Is there any orientation to the rotor vanes or does it not matter ?

Thanks again for all your replies.

 

The vane and rotor do not matter; the end plates do
Usually you press the pulley off the shaft before starting the pump rebuild
The sector shaft and the pitman arm have either 3 or 4 dead splines
Those can go on any which way, but again will only work one way
After you get it all back together, you center the gear and install the pitman arm to make the wheels go straight ahead
You cannot install that wrong either as it will not fit between the frame and go on there wrong
You replaced the vane and rotor?
Took the GM pump apart for what reason?
better bench test it before install

 

Thanks again for the responses, much appreciated.
I) As for pressing the pulley off, I hit it out with a rubber mallet once I got the snap ring and two plates off which lead to ...II)
II) When I knocked out the shaft with a rubber mallet, the rotor and cam ring came out along with some of the vanes. I am not going to replace the vanes and rotor, just reuse the one I pictured in the previous post. I can't really tell which way the vanes should go in, they all have a small strip on one side that is still shiny, emphasis on small. I am orienting the vanes such that the small shiny outward edge will be against the cam.
III) Also, please tell me how I can bench test this rebuild before I go through all the work of putting it back in the van. I would GREATLY appreciate this.

Thanks again.

 

Just assemble it, put fluid in it and spin it
You have to spin those GM pumps fast
I used my butterfly wrench on those
Ford C2 pump you can just use your hand or air ratchet

 

Gotcha thanks, I’ll try to put some sort of bolt in the rotor spindle (3/8 16 thread I think) and use an air drill or ratchet to spin it.

BTW, how would I bench test a steering gear ? is that possible?

 

You won't easily
You'll need to install it
You sure could rig up a pump with an electric motor and build a test apparatus
Would be futile IMO as I can get the fear in and out in less than 40 minutes
You are going to reseal your gear too? Smart move

 

Gotcha -that's what I was thinking - there is no realistically feasible way to test the gear. Interesting thought about setting up a pump to gear on the bench and powering with a drill/motor to test the gear. However I am thinking I don't have an electric motor strong enough to provide the pressure to test the gear.

Also - I bough a full blown gear rebuild kit, even though from what I could see it is only the input shaft seal that is doing the leaking. Fortunately I also got a donor gear from the junkyard when I got the donor PS pump, so I can try to rebuild my original and have the donor as a backup if I am not successful.

How difficult is the full rebuild of a steering gear ?

 

Easy
You can cookbook it
The input seals leaked so much / often, I did them on the truck in the mid 90s
You get the sector shaft out the top once you remove the 3/4 headed bolts and have the pitman arm off
You can mark that pitman arm with a ******* file for where it goes, but impossible to screw up if you wait to install it until after the gear is in the truck
The gear needs to be centered (1/2 way from lock to lock) should be roughly 4 turns lock to lock
So, 2 turns from a lock, you can remove the sector shaft (more like 1 3/4 or 1 7/8)
Once the sector shaft is out you can remove the control valve, worm gear and power piston
Square green O ring on the valve block, teflon rings on the valve and a O-ring and a rectangular teflon ring on the power piston
No need to disassemble the control valve itself with the big 12 point nut on the input shaft
First thing I learned was there is 27 ***** in there
Pull the screws out and remove the cap to insert ***** one at a time with the shaft fully installed, it will take more and more ***** as you rotate the shaft back and forth
New ***** come in a bag of 31 and the destructions say to add as many as will fit
If you do that the steering will be sticky
I never used more than 28
I think that is what is wrong with many reman gears, the guys are just following instructions which does not always work like the engineers plan

 

Wow this is great information thanks !
I have watched videos on rebuilding a Saginaw gear (not a Ford Gear like I have). It was interesting that there were two different types of steel ***** in that gear that had to be installed in an alternating pattern. Not sure what that design was for.

As for progress this weekend, rebuilding the PS pump held me up. I stupidly decided to replace the shaft bushing because a new one came with the rebuild kit and so "just because I have it", not because I needed it. Unfortunately the bushing seems to be made of softer steel or something, and I don't have a hydrualic press. Needless to say it didnt' go in straight and I boogered it up. I had to buy another rebuild kit just for the bushing, and have to take it to a local machine shop that is only open M-F to have it pressed in properly.

 

well, crap. I've never replaced one but yes, they sure are bitchy, the ones I do on rear output shafts for transmissions and transfer cases
I use the exact right size socket for removal and a bushing driver for install
They usually do get nicked up some and need to be dressed
Give the guy your shaft in case he needs to hone or ream it