Are there any updates on the newer style fuel pumps that are suppose to fix the hard start issues with the '17+ 6.2 motors? We have two at work that are getting pretty bad, but the weird thing is they do it when cold also so maybe it's something else

Also, I read a couple years ago that some people were going to try and add a check valve inline to keep from removing the fuel pump. Any recent info on this option?

Just want to get my info straight before I go to the boss again.

 

Im no help but following as my fuel pump has issues as well. Mines just the typical once warmed up sitting for an hour or 2 itll be slow to start though.

 

Same for me as well. My truck seems to not do it so often in the winter months, but when it is say 77 or warmer its a guarantee it will long start. I wish Ford would look into this.

 

The 7.3s can do it too, uses the same pump. Happens to mine on occasion, Not sure why they haven't addressed the problem after all these years...

 

Because I own a 6.2L 2017 F250 I saved this information from a previous posts in case I need to replace mine. There could be another number to supersede this part number. Here is the part number.

 

An interesting restart thing began with my truck this winter. Cold engine crank time starts have always been fast and strong. Previous to this winter, any extended crank long start was only in hot summer weather after driving at least a half hour. This winter, my truck engine does a medium long extended crank start after washing my truck and sitting a while. Yesterday was typical: got home, 35 degrees outside, washed truck, truck sat three and a half hours, then medium long crank restart. It never did that until this winter. Everything else is perfect like usual.

 

The only difference with the truck this winter is for the first time ever I began washing the truck inside the garage if it is cold outside. Then the garage inside stays humid for a couple of hours before drying out. The garage heat is set to 50 degrees, and I get the same medium long crank restart after washing in the garage too.

 

Following, the check valve sounds like the best solution. I would like to hear feedback if anyone has done it.

 

I update the PCM and do a dechoke per tsb 18-2188 and it helps with the long crank when its cold out. I live in the south so I've only had maybe 3 or 4 total that I've fixed..

 

Just ordered an updated pump according to FORD and the brands they use for the replacement and contacting several dealerships on the brands and model numbers. Apparently Ford uses several different brands or manufacturers so i went with one of them, cost was WAYYYYY lower than dealerships. Gonna drop tank when it comes in…

 

So which one did you go with exactly?

 

The Herko 970GE that ford advised according to my setup and VIN

 

By putting a check valve inline your putting a band-aid on the problem. Get a new in tank pump and change it out and that's done ! Then you need to relocate the tank vent breather to some place like the engine bay to help keep it out of dirty conditions. Splice a hose and extend it to the engine bay and then hook up your breather after cleaning it. All done.

 

What do you mean? The evap is sealed when the cap is on there.. Do you mean run a line from the evap vent valve or something? The existing evap filtering is a decent setup.. the fresh air intake sits up high to minimize dirt.