How did you check the lash clearance?

 

Hopefully he read post #3 and used that. I would be curious to know how many turns he got out of it before the bolt stopped.

 

CLICK HERE - https://charm.li/Ford/1993/E%20350%2...e/Adjustments/
ALSO -
ROLLER ROCKER ARMS

AFTER SETTING CORRECT VALVE-LASH - POSITIVE STOP VALVE-TRAIN

Here are the (clipped) FRPP installation instructions:
Turn the bolts by hand until there is no clearance between the roller and the valve stem (make sure the push-rod is seated in the rocker arm cup). Slowly torque the bolt to 18-20 FT-LBS. Since you are pushing down the plunger in the hydraulic lifter as you torque the bolt, it will probably take a minute or two to complete the procedure.The bolt should have turned between one-quarter to one full turn to reach the torque setting. This will give the correct lifter pre-load of .020" to .060". If the bolt turned more than one turn, you will have to shim the pedestal (use Ford Racing Performance Parts shim kit M-6529-A302). NOTE: M-6500-A301 anti-pump-up lifters only need .020" to .030" pre-load. If the bolt turned less than ¼", you will have little or no lifter pre-load. The solution for this is longer push-rods. These are available from a number of companies, such as Crane Cams Tech Line (904) 258-6174. There are many modifications that may have been made to the engine which will change the lifter pre-load, such as valve jobs, different cams, different thickness head gaskets, head milling, etc. It is a good idea to check the rocker arm pattern on the valve stem tip. Use a felt tip marker to “paint” the tip. Then, with the rocker arm in place, turn the engine through two revolutions.Remove the rocker arm and inspect the pattern.

It should be nearly centered on the tip. If it appears to be too close to the edge of the tip,call the Ford Racing Tech “Hot Line” for assistance. Note: The lifter pre-load may be different between the intake and the exhaust or between one side of the engine and the other. Therefore,you must check lifter pre-load on each rocker arm. Repeat this process on the remaining cylinders. *****Some info that might help - the 18TPI bolts have a travel of .055" per turn. Allowable pre-load is .014" to .055" (1/4 to 1 full turn from zero lash) for stock engines, and recommended .020-.030" for performance and racing lifters (roughly 1/3 to 2/3 turn).

Lash is usually close unless the block or heads have been machined. If you get, say, a bit over 1 turn (about .060 pre-load) you need to add a shim. Shim sets of .030 and .060 shims are under $10. Adding an .030 shim in this case would put it right into range.

SOURCE - https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/thr...r-arms.490129/

 

I said 1/2 to 1 turn, they said 1/4 to 1 turn so I think we are on the same page.

 

- Steps for Stock HYDRAULIC POSITIVE-STOP Non-Adjustable Pedestal System -1) Remove Valve Covers

2) Inspect Components: Check the fulcrum (pivot) and rocker arm for wear. Because this is a stock system, there is no adjustment mechanism; you simply tighten the bolts TO CORRECT torque value.

3) Torque Sequence: Torque the rocker arm fulcrum bolts to the factory specification (usually around 25 ft. lb.,but verify with your service manual).4) Replace Components: If clearance is incorrect (valve-lash), the issue is likely worn components or incorrect push-rod length, requiring replacement, not adjustment.
*****ROLLER ROCKER ARMS

AFTER SETTING CORRECT VALVE-LASH - POSITIVE STOP VALVE-TRAIN

Here are the (clipped) FRPP installation instructions:
Turn the bolts by hand until there is no clearance between the roller (AKA ROLLER OR ROLLER TIP ROCKER) and the valve stem (make sure the push-rod is seated in the rocker arm cup). Slowly torque the bolt to 18-20 FT-LBS. Since you are pushing down the plunger in the hydraulic lifter as you torque the bolt, it will probably take a minute or two to complete the procedure.The bolt should have turned between one-quarter to one full turn to reach the torque setting. This will give the correct lifter pre-load of .020" to .060". If the bolt turned more than one turn, you will have to shim the pedestal (use Ford Racing Performance Parts shim kit M-6529-A302).


*****

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Franklin2

I said 1/2 to 1 turn, they said 1/4 to 1 turn so I think we are on the same page.

Yeah, it is just like horse shoes, hand grenades and thermo-nuclear devices. Close enough.

Does the turn-to-spin push-rod procedure require one to have his fingers calibrated as most have differing hand strength?

On the same order as having a torque wrench calibrated periodically?

CLICK HERE - https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...little-secret/

 

You should be rolling the push rod back and forth until you feel it get tight but not so tight you can’t spin it. But again you should not have grip the rod tightly so keep it spinning.

 

So it is getting close but not exact?

 

The same could be said about solid lifter adjustments and feeler gauge.
What is too tight or too loose drag on the gauge?

My glass is half full
Dave ----

 

yes It’s not a exact science. As you do them, you’ll get the feel for it.
that’s pretty much how we learned some 50 years ago. I had a Plymouth 340, I learned on buddies Chevys

 

I think CORRECT VALVE-TRAIN GEOMETRY is being forgotten/side-stepped.

It may be OK for a mild street engine (I would never do it) but if a STREET THUMPER or RACE ENGINE, don't think so.

If you can't get the geometry correct, it becomes liable to failure(s). Why go this route?

The OEM VALVE-TRAIN with certain modifications will suffice ($$$).