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Through the chain stores, your options generally will boil down to the following:
ECH VR401
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS VR10
BWD R135
As you experienced, NEW could mean "Never Ever Worked". Don't be surprised if a new one may need some adjustments.
Regulator adjustment is covered across multiple pages in Part 3, Chapter 1, Section 1 of the typical shop manual with pictures and whatnot... you should double check your adjustment against that process to ensure you are spot on.
Also make sure your wiring is correct for a type B system and flashed/polarized accordingly:
Once again, thank you for your advice, you have been a great help
Note: All those blindly suggesting alternators are missing the troubleshooting steps to verify that the effort put into the alternator replacement will actually address the root cause of discharge symptoms.
Alternator will give better charging. Maybe some added loads like different lights or in my case added electric fuel pump. Not saying don't follow the troubleshooting procedure, just that the alternator is better technology.
If you mean more amps, that doesn't matter for the given situation. One can get different/more amperage generators just as they can with alternators.
If you mean no external regulator, well sure. It just is now located within the alternator, probably not adjustable, more susceptible to electrical damage, and realistically scraps the whole alternator when gone bad.
An alternator can't charge a low/dead battery - a generator can.
While alternators may require lower minimum axial RPMs than generators, this doesn't matter in a given application because the ratio between the pulleys (should) counter/adapt for that.
Alternators generate AC power which must be cleaned, rectified, and regulated. Generators produce direct DC.
Alternators can come in denser more efficient packages, but we already have the space for a generator...
I'm not saying there can't be advantages to alternators or generators, just that it really doesn't really matter here... So again, I ask you to specifically quantify "better charging" in a meaningful way.
If you mean more amps, that doesn't matter for the given situation. One can gat different/more amperage generators just as they can with alternators.
If you mean no external regulator, well sure. It just is now located within the alternator, probably not adjustable, more susceptible to electrical damage, and realistically scraps the whole alternator when gone bad.
An alternator can't charge a low/dead battery - a generator can.
While alternators may require lower minimum axial RPMs than generators, this doesn't matter in a given application because the ratio between the pulleys (should) counter/adapt for that.
Alternators generate AC power which must be cleaned, rectified, and regulated. Generators produce direct DC.
Alternators can come in denser more efficient packages, but we already have the space for a generator...
I'm not saying there can't be advantages to alternators or generators, just that it really doesn't really matter here... So again, I ask you to specifically quantify "better charging" in a meaningful way.
I have changed at least three of my vehicles to alternators. I no longer have warm start problems, my headlights are brighter, and have had no low battery problems even with frequent starts. My experience is for the price of changing to an alternator, you have many fewer issues than doing a 12 volt upgrade. Do what you want with your vehicles. I really like the dependability of mine. All mine are drivers, not trailer queens.
I agree with the advice from Bmornan and fortyniner, and with what you have to say. The truck is in winter storage now and I won't have it back until the end of April so I am doing my best to figure out some of the problems now and seek whatever advice I can.. I can tell you that when the truck is running I have tested with a battery tester and I am getting 7.5 volts from the system. Turn the truck off and sometimes it will go into a discharge mode of which the regulator is stuck. If I use the battery disconnect switch that will reset the regulator, wait a couple minutes slide the disconnect back on and everything is back to normal and will stay that way until the next time I go to use the truck. The brake light switch is new so I know that is not the problem. When I get the truck back from storage I guess I will just take my time and test everything one by one. I would like to keep the truck as original as I can. In 1964 I had a 1950 almost the same as this one so I have to rack my brain abit to work on it. Thank you for your advice, and I am willing to do whatever it takes to get this right
Thank you for your reply Tico!
It sounds like you have it isolated to the voltage regulator. The more I think about it, the more I think it could be just as simple as a loose or mis-adjusted spring on the cut out relay contacts. For some reason the spring may not have enough tension to open the contacts when the engine is shut off. But just enough tension to open them once you disconnect your battery.
But then again, I could be wrong....
Why would an alternator or generator make a difference with warm starts? It doesn't!
Brighter headlights, discharged batteries - could be the alternator regulator is set higher than the generator regulator.
It almost seems as if your definition of better is the fact that you were more inclined to throw $$$ at parts rather than tuning the regulator. That's your choice, but in no way does that automatically and universally make alternators better.
As a counter to your experience, my fleet consists largely of 6V vehicles and tractors with generators and I haven't had any need to consider alternatives. Anecdotally, one tractor dropped on my doorstep came with a 12V 1 wire alternator conversion. I went through 3 alternators before reverting back to a stock 6V generator setup.
I agree with the advice from Bmornan and fortyniner, and with what you have to say. The truck is in winter storage now and I won't have it back until the end of April so I am doing my best to figure out some of the problems now and seek whatever advice I can.. I can tell you that when the truck is running I have tested with a battery tester and I am getting 7.5 volts from the system. Turn the truck off and sometimes it will go into a discharge mode of which the regulator is stuck. If I use the battery disconnect switch that will reset the regulator, wait a couple minutes slide the disconnect back on and everything is back to normal and will stay that way until the next time I go to use the truck. The brake light switch is new so I know that is not the problem. When I get the truck back from storage I guess I will just take my time and test everything one by one. I would like to keep the truck as original as I can. In 1964 I had a 1950 almost the same as this one so I have to rack my brain abit to work on it. Thank you for your advice, and I am willing to do whatever it takes to get this right
There is something seriously funky with the regulator behavior.
I am hardly a capable mechanic but none of the successful troubleshooting exercises I've gone through ever started with 'it can't be component X'. Every failed effort did. Assume nothing, check everything, add grounds when in doubt, and keep morale high. It is a hobby.
Keep us posted when you're able to get back to it.
I still have 6v pos grd in my 48 and 53. The big change I made is using a 6v alternator. Seems much better. An alternator will charge a t lower RPMs.
So you are saying that you have a 6 volt pos ground alternator in your truck, single wire. How does this install and are mounting brackets available for flathead six
Thank you for your reply Tico!
It sounds like you have it isolated to the voltage regulator. The more I think about it, the more I think it could be just as simple as a loose or mis-adjusted spring on the cut out relay contacts. For some reason the spring may not have enough tension to open the contacts when the engine is shut off. But just enough tension to open them once you disconnect your battery.
But then again, I could be wrong....
Again , thank you for your advice. This is where the problem seems to be. So guess I will have to keep playing with it to get it right. One thing that I should mention, is once and a while when I start the truck it will show that it is not charging. If I put a jumper wire between the field and the battery connection on the regulator it will wake up the regulator and start charging. The remove it and it will charge in a normal way. Gives me something else to research until I get the truck back from storage. Again thank you for your advice
Why would an alternator or generator make a difference with warm starts? It doesn't!
Brighter headlights, discharged batteries - could be the alternator regulator is set higher than the generator regulator.
It almost seems as if your definition of better is the fact that you were more inclined to throw $$$ at parts rather than tuning the regulator. That's your choice, but in no way does that make automatically and universally make alternators better.
As a counter to your experience, my fleet consists largely of 6V vehicles and tractors with generators and I haven't had any need to consider alternatives. Anecdotally, one tractor dropped on my doorstep came with a 12V 1 wire alternator conversion. I went through 3 alternators before reverting back to a stock 6V generator setup.
I agree, I haven't had any problem with warm starts, and my headlights are bright as long as it is charging
I had some troubles along these lines with generator not charging properly. We found multiple issues. Poorly and incomplete rebuilt generators, a NOS voltage regulator that needed to be fixed and finally a corroded brass bar connecting the two circuit breakers under the dash. The brass bar looked fine on one side but on the back was a beautiful bright verdigris green!
Steve Blancard does exceptionally good work rebuilding your generator. splitdorf@***.net
I had some troubles along these lines with generator not charging properly. We found multiple issues. Poorly and incomplete rebuilt generators, a NOS voltage regulator that needed to be fixed and finally a corroded brass bar connecting the two circuit breakers under the dash. The brass bar looked fine on one side but on the back was a beautiful bright verdigris green!
Steve Blancard does exceptionally good work rebuilding your generator. splitdorf@***.net
