Morning. New to the forum and have been searching for information that may relate to my issues. I've found some similar threads but generally on modified trucks with larger wheels, oversized tires and or spacers. I've got an 02 F250 Lariat gas model with roughly 165k and no modifications. This past fall while towing a toy hauler on gravel roads I got a flat on my passenger rear, swapped it for the spare steel and finished the trip. When I got home I noticed I had broke two studs on that wheel. Replaced all 8 of them and torqued to 140ft/lbs then rechecked torque later that week. Still running that steel wheel as the aluminum wheel was damaged during this event. Fast forward to today, was driving into town and felt something was off so I pulled over to check things out and found the driver side wheel was about ready to fall off having broken 4 studs and the other 4 lugs were backing off to the point I was close to losing the wheel. Tightened everything down and limped her home. Pulled the wheel off (wheel is severely damaged and will need replaced) and found that the rotor was simply floating around with the holes wallered out. The rotor has roughly 10 degrees of play. Looking at the broken studs, they don't appear to be stretched. Last time I rotated tires (the previous spring) I torqued everything down to 140ftlbs and checked rotors and brake pads and everything looked fine at that time. I don't feel any play in the axle bearings and leaf spring bushings looked to be in okay shape. Now I'm just scratching my head as to why I'm breaking studs and why my rotor isn't press fit onto the rear "hub." Seems unlikely that the rotor was the start of the issue and was a downstream failure but hard to rule anything out. Short of throwing parts at this issue, any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Enemies of late? Seriously, thats just to odd to be a coincidence. You sure about your torque wrench too?

 

It's been years since I brought it into work to confirm it's accurate... Probably worth bringing it in again to double check it. Thanks!

There's probably at least 3000 miles since the last time this wheel would have been off. Granted, embedment over time, a single loosening joint turns into a domino effect, a series of unfortunate events could be the catalyst.

Are there any tricks to replacing lug studs on these trucks? Never was able to figure out how to remove the studs without pulling the axle so I ended up drilling a hole in the back plate so I could pop replace them on the passenger side.

 

The only thing I can think of is #1 when a stud was replaced it was not seated in 100% and it worked its way out, or in I guess and made the lug lose. #2. Some after market wheels have to much offset and If your hauling or carrying a camper I have seen the studs literally snap off and the wheel doing a number in the body. Other than that, I cant say. I would check the torque wrench and try a different brand of stud. IMHO parts from China leave a lot to be desired when it comes to things like fuses, bolts and so called Graded hardware. I personally wont use stuff from Dorman if I can help it.

 

Thanks for the advice. The passenger side was the first studs to break and the replacement studs are still holding. This most recent one on the drivers side are presumably the studs from the factory. I'm going to replace parts, confirm mu torque wrench is accurate and check my torques meticulously moving forward and see if the issue is resolved.

 

I've had SD trucks for 26 years and have never torque the lug nuts to 140 ft lbs, I've always used 100 ft lbs and have never had a problem. I think you are over torquing them causing your problems.

Denny

 

I've been doing it all wrong for years, just using a big 4-way and giving each a "strong grunt". Never a problem, hauling tons of heavy-*** trailers daily.

 

I know you guys been going on about torque spec and back, but I have run a lot of these 99 to 03 super duties and literally all I do is I use an impact I tighten them down about the same on each one, but what your problem might mean what’s happened to my dad‘s 2001 F450 is that you’re getting some tighter than the others and it’s actually between heat cycles on the brakes letting the hub warp to where one side is further into the other well then when you go to tighten them down all right there 140 foot pounds get some tighter than others and it is letting it move just a little it’s not enough to be noticeable by the naked eye, but just enough to move and make the lugs work loose

 

Folks, don't run M14 or 9/16" studs at 100 ft lbs. That's bad advice. 140 is correct and there was internet lore years ago about taking the early SuperDutys (around the days of the D50 front) to 165. This is a bit high but honestly probably not going to cause yield. 100 ft lbs is for OBS F150s with 1/2-20 studs

I agree OP needs to check his TW and carefully think about bad actors or criminal mischief.

Unless you have a D80 dually rear the rotors don't press on and are not captive via the lugstuds. They simply slip on and off. They locate hubcentrically and simply get "mashed" between the hub and wheel by lugnut tension, same as your wheel basically.

Keep us updated!

 

Maybe I've been doing wrong all these years, me and a few tire shops that have used 100 to 110 ft lbs. All of mine have been 2WD DRW so I'm not smashing a rotor against a hub. The biggest thing I always do is make sure all the surfaces are clean and run the torque wrench over all studs twice. Never had one come loose in all the pulling heavy miles I've driven.

 

Yeah, concur. My '15 is newer than the OP's truck, but I gotta think they haven't changed the lugs all that much over the years. My manual specifies 162 lb ft. That's more than I can get from one good grunt with a 4 way.

 

Did a little experiment this morning, I removed my front hubcap and checked the torque on all the lugs and they where still at 100 ft lbs, I had that wheel off last summer. Then I used a sharpie and marked it and raised the torque to 145. It moved some but not enough to really impress me all that much, I loosen it up and torque to 100 like the rest of them. Next time I have them off I will consider raising the torque but not by that much.
One thing I do religiously is clean all the surfaces and put a small amount of grease on the wheel center whole to stop them from corroding and sticking to the hub. I don't even bring my truck to have the tires changed l just bring the tires to the shop that way when I put them on I know everything is clean and my valve stems are on the DRW are lined up the way I want them. I also check the brakes at the same time because with a DRW you can't see them unless the wheels are off.
Denny

 

10.8 grade is recommended for 140ftlb, but if someone’s providing 8.8 then approx 100 is appropriate. It’s something else to worry about…

 

I always retorque my wheels after 25 miles, that way if they if they settle I catch it there before a problem 02 f250 7.3 4x4 492000 miles I bought it in 06 with 46000 on it so it has been threw a lot of tire removal

 

Do you ever find any that move when torquing them are 25k miles. On our trailer with 17.5 wheels that center on the studs not the hub I will find one or two not that have loosen up some after a 100 miles, the aluminum wheels have steel inserts for the nuts to seat against I also use the 110 ft lbs the wheel company recommended.

Denny