Remove the spark plugs to remove cylinder pressure, it will turn a lot easier and put the crank bolt back in. Put your socket on it and turn it. When you set dot to dot, you’ll immediately see if you are off a tooth because they won’t be aligned like you removed it. Your method, you’ll have to turn it after to verify they are dot to dot still. The cam will turn easier than the crank when they are separated.

The sprockets themselves go on the parts one way only (unless you have a degreeable cam gear) The chain can go on any tooth in any gear.

 

I have a 1994 F-150 XLT Mega Cab short bed 4WD 5.8L E4OD.

I replaced the entire cooling system after this truck sat for over 6 years. After driving it over several months, I noticed that I was losing coolant. Like you, I couldn't figure out where it was going....until one day I FINALLY noticed a small drip under the truck on the driver's side. When I looked underneath, I found an extremely rusted freeze plug which was dripping. I can only guess that prior to it rusting through enough to have a drip to the ground, it was leaking so slowly that it was evaporating off the hot block before ever reaching the ground. After replacing that one and a couple of other suspect plugs, poof: no more coolant leak!

I hope this helps as I know how frustrating it was until I finally found it.

 

Now that I have the new Cloyes set, I see the existing set has similar markings. I bet the timing set has already been replaced once. I might be wasting my time.

Anyway, do you guys recommend installing the gaskets dry, or with sealant? I've got block to timing cover, timing cover to backing plate and water pump to backing plate gaskets. Some things say to only put sealer (thin layer of RTV) on one side, mostly to help keep it lined up. On the other hand I hate leaks. On the third hand, I'm not enjoying scraping the old material off the block.