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1989 E150 Intermittent sputtering/stalling NEED HELP
My beloved econoline has been given me a real headache lately. After about 10-15 minutes of driving sometimes, engine will sputter under heavy acceleration, then usually stop after 5 seconds and go back to normal. Kept driving today and it eventually died on me on the road, restarted in about 2 minutes and got home. I’ve also noticed that this will only happen sometimes if you go to hit full throttle, like to the floor. And it happened once on startup, and I was able to throttle it out. I’m leaning towards a fuel issues but I am definitely not sure by any means. Just had a shop run me $1300 and it ended up not fixing it. I’m thinking of replacing fuel filter, on frame fuel pump, please any suggestions are helpful
Processor is over due for capacitor replacement
After you replace the DU30C in the distributor and the DY425 ignition module and replace the fuel pump 6 times, check the caps
Somewhere in there, throw a coil at it and tune it up
Cap, rotor and wires on those old ones were scheduled replacement at 60K miles, copper plugs at 30K
I run double platinum plugs in my 94, and currently mine needs another fuel pump. On processor 3
When those caps leak onto the board the car /. truck can run like puke as well as the fuel pump staying on and the trans shifting funky in some cases if the traces get burnt up
Processor is over due for capacitor replacement
After you replace the DU30C in the distributor and the DY425 ignition module and replace the fuel pump 6 times, check the caps
Somewhere in there, throw a coil at it and tune it up
Cap, rotor and wires on those old ones were scheduled replacement at 60K miles, copper plugs at 30K
I run double platinum plugs in my 94, and currently mine needs another fuel pump. On processor 3
When those caps leak onto the board the car /. truck can run like puke as well as the fuel pump staying on and the trans shifting funky in some cases if the traces get burnt up
Yes I’ve heard about the ECM going bad. I’ve heard a good way to test if it’s on its way out is to cycle the key, and if your fuel pump cycles for more than 3 seconds, your ECM is failing. Mine does not do this
Right, that is one test and the most common failure of them
If you turn the key off, and the pump stays running, your processor has bad caps
There are no codes for that, and when the traces start failing the whole processor acts drunk (my term) and fuzzy (also my term)
I drove my van all the way back to UT from the Olympic Peninsula sputtering and running like a Mexican Jumping bean
It generally will not leave you stranded but sure can run like puke
.......in my 94. On processor 3. When those caps leak onto the board the car /. truck can run like puke as well as the fuel pump staying on and the trans shifting funky in some cases if the traces get burnt up
I guess I've had good fortune with my '93 as it still runs well w/163k on it.
It seems you're saying that replacing the processor on these old vans should be done as a preventative measure. But I'm kind of in the...."If it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp.
Rebuilt processors that weren't so good? What brand(s) have you used? (So I can avoid buying)..
Not at all
I see and drive old Fords that start and run no problem
Like the old Taurus recall fuel pumps
Only one in a thousand failed but we had to replace them ALL
I am saying that if you have an intermittent miss you can't figure out after replacing half the truck, plan on at least looking at the processor circuit board
Here are 3 pictures of my original ECU board with only 2 leaking caps that you just about need a magnifying glass to see
I hope you got a lot of money, I have exactly what you have and hate ford now, start with an ECM, then pull the codes, the capacitors in them only last 10 years, if its original it will be toasted! More has been spent on mine than a 351W 408 stroker complete with carb and distributor, the greatest upgrade you can do is junk the efi as it will bleed you dry!
A little late, but I've been driving it enough now I think I know what's going on. I believe my rear tank fuel pump is shot, or the fuel selector valve. Truck will sputter, very intermittently, only on the back tank. It will also pull fuel from the front tank and drain it out. When this first happened I had a low front tank and I think it sucked it dry (fuel gauge is slightly off). Now if I keep the front tank full, haven't had issues, knock on wood. Gonna drop the rear tank when it warms up a little
I drive them around with a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield
Last one I had problems with had a bunch of rust and varnish in the tank and was intermittently running okay
After 3 fuel pumps and a new gas tank it ran fine That is a Snap-On gauge with a long hose on it. It also has a pressure relief to take a sample and do a volume test
Hmmm okay I'll keep that in mind, I put a rear pump in this a couple years ago so I wonder if rust in the tank is an issue. Im replacing it in a couple months so I'll be sure to look. may just be worth it to throw a new tank in there. Also not a bad idea on the fuel pressure gauge. I've been meaning to throw in a voltage gauge and tach, since my voltage meter is cooked in my dash.
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