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I might have found my issue. Changed the Crankshaft sensor from under and that was tough and tedious, but do able and done. Went after the Camshaft sensor from underneath and that is contorsion level 10 out of 10, quite painful too. Well, the Camshaft sensor will come out about 3/4 of the way before hitting a rigid Power Steering Pump Line. So to the top side I went. I needed the battery tray out of the way with the integrated airfilter support. While doing that I have clear view of the PCM and decided to check all three plugs, which were clean and dry. But while doing that I noticed this battery tray reinforcement rib touching a wire loom...
If its only 1 wire (I will fully investigate when the Camshaft Sensor is replaced, 1 thing at a time)... could that cause issue? I assume the battery tray is not conducive, but plastic does create static ... ?
Obviously if I find more than 1 wire worn through, which it doesn't look like it so far, then of course thats the issue and now I wonder the health of the PCM.
To me, the other one looks more reddish than tan, but the closest possible is Orange with Light Blue stripe (OG/LB) 'Speed Control Indicator' for C1381A.
If the wire does end up being the issue then the sensors you replaced may still be good. Maybe hang on to the originals as spares due to the quality of newer parts these days. Great find on that chafe.
Its more of a light blue wire with an orange stripe.
I will definitely hold onto the old sensors, you're right, great chance they're still good.
I so carefully scored the wire housing without cutting hard and risking damage to the copper strands, and then gently picked at and stripped the housing off the one wire. Its intact, nothing broken. Did electrical tape on the stripped section, then again over the wire, then again over all the wires to replicate the factory tape job ... but better.
I hit all three connectors with CRC contact cleaner and let it dry, heat gun at proper distance helped.
I am still waiting on a new Transfer Case Shift Motor to arrive so I can install that which should eliminate the last DTC code of a short.
Last edited by misterpeanut; Jan 11, 2026 at 10:44 AM.
Its more of a light blue wire with an orange stripe.
I will definitely hold onto the old sensors, you're right, great chance they're still good.
I so carefully scored the wire housing without cutting hard and risking damage to the copper strands, and then gently picked at and stripped the housing off the one wire. Its intact, nothing broken. Did electrical tape on the stripped section, then again over the wire, then again over all the wires to replicate the factory tape job ... but better.
I hit all three connectors with CRC contact cleaner and let it dry, heat gun at proper distance helped.
I am still waiting on a new Transfer Case Shift Motor to arrive so I can install that which should eliminate the last DTC code of a short.
I listed a Light Blue with Orange stripe insulation - fuel pump switched ground.
The other one I listed (MAF) was probably wrong because I was looking at an '06 model year manual.
Its more of a light blue wire with an orange stripe.
I will definitely hold onto the old sensors, you're right, great chance they're still good.
I so carefully scored the wire housing without cutting hard and risking damage to the copper strands, and then gently picked at and stripped the housing off the one wire. Its intact, nothing broken. Did electrical tape on the stripped section, then again over the wire, then again over all the wires to replicate the factory tape job ... but better.
I hit all three connectors with CRC contact cleaner and let it dry, heat gun at proper distance helped.
I am still waiting on a new Transfer Case Shift Motor to arrive so I can install that which should eliminate the last DTC code of a short.
I listed a Light Blue with Orange stripe insulation - fuel pump switched ground.
The other one I listed (MAF) was probably wrong because I was looking at an '06 model year manual.
To me, the other one looks more reddish than tan, but the closest possible is Orange with Light Blue stripe (OG/LB) 'Speed Control Indicator' for C1381A.
Off topic, but it is crazy down here in S. Texas. I have seen about a half dozen restored (2005 I believe) Excursions in the last couple of weeks. REALLY nice.
I have no problem working on these, but mystery issues are no fun. Thanks to you guys our '05 ran all day yesterday going around town and my wife was able to confidently drive it to work this morning! I appreciate you all.
She loves driving it, I do to, and so just keeping it running and looking good. You'll see more from me about this soon
This was from the trip driving it home back in Sept. 2024 ... along with our youngest son's new to him '88 F250.
Well it happened again, this time I was able to pull data. Its been running fine all week and then this evening crank and no start. The only thing I am starting to correlate is cold weather, its 21f and has been cold most of day but was running fine.
When I plugged in it wouldn't read DTC codes. Cleared and still wouldn't read. Tried rewriting the tune with the SCT, and it did, but still didnt fire up.
No FICM Sync when you have a good rpm signal (and yes you can get Cam/Crank Sync with a bad Cam sensor - when the Crank sensor is good) is typically either a Cam sensor (or its wiring), or a FICM issue. Hopefully not a PCM issue (which isn't common).
Do you have access to a known good FICM to try?
Where did you order the recently replaced cam and crank sensors from?
I have no idea on not being able to read PCM codes, likely to be related to re-programming.
