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i got a mazda tribute that blew a heater hose and died its a v6 3.0 2001......i am unable to get it running.....on ly thing i found wrong was a broken heater hose.....anybody had tha=e same problem.....looking for suggestion !!
Welcome to the forum. You say you're "unable to get it running" but that could mean a lot of things. Does the engine not spin over? Did the engine stall from overheating, or did it shut off due to coolant getting into the electrical system? Have you checked for spark, fuel, injector pulse, compression? What is the condition of the oil on the dipstick?
heater hose come apart under the battery tray,car stalled out and died so far i checked
oil is good,no sign of water
got fire on #4 spark lug
53 pounds of fuel pressure at rail
took off vale covers and check valves and timing chain,saw no trouble
boroscope pistons,all look well
i ran a fan on it for 3 days,it tries to fire up,but no luck yet....
looking for suggestions!
So by "tried to fire up" does that mean the starter motor spins the engine, it just does not start? Is cylinder #4 the only spark plug that has spark, or the only one you checked?
Assuming the starter spins the engine and you only checked for spark on cylinder #4, have you tried spraying throttle body cleaner or similar into the throttle body to see if the engine will fire up and run when provided fuel? If it does, then you'll need to check for injector pulse. Is the check engine light on or have you checked for any diagnostic codes? Also, it's not too uncommon for the catalytic converters to get plugged on this engine and, if bad enough, blow the EGR valve. You could try removing the upstream oxygen sensor to see if that will enable the engine to start by bypassing a possible exhaust restriction.
i put some gas in the throttle body vent hose....it tried to start....fired a few times......fuel starvation? how do you recommend to check injector pulse?
If there's an auto parts store nearby, they may have a noid light set in their rental tool cabinet. Or, if you happen to have an oscilloscope available to you and a backprobe set, you can check for injector pulse with an oscilloscope. If you don't have either of those, you could try monitoring the ground to an injector with a multimeter, but it will need to be a meter with a pretty high sampling rate since the pulse if very short.
i thought about just pulling the whole rail out somebody tie wrap the injectors to the rail and crank it and see if any fuel come out......is this a dumb ideal?
I cannot really recommend that approach since it's generally not wise to spray fuel all over. It also could be pretty tough to remove the rail and injectors as a single piece without damaging something (harness, fuel rail, injector seals, etc.) and could be pretty tricky to reinstall without damage. Are you not able to cut a cable tie and get to it to put a new tie on? Over time the injector plugs do get brittle and the retention tabs may break off. Instead of wiring in a new pigtail or connector body, folks often resort to using cable ties to hold the connectors on. But that's usually done with the injectors and fuel rail in place, so I'd suspect you could cut the ties, test for pulse, and cable time back in place after the test.
If you test for pulse with a noid light and don't find any, be sure to check for power to the injector while the connector is off. The injectors receive power with the key in Run or Start from the PCM Power Relay and the ground side is pulsed via the PCM.
Correct, with the key in the Run position there should be battery voltage to each of the fuel injectors. It should be a red wire (pin 2) at each injector.
Engine ran immediately prior to issue, so fuel should not be stale
53 psi fuel pressure at the fuel rail
With fuel added to intake, the engine will try to start (so there is spark and timing would seem to be correct, and apparently has compression)
Confirmed that all 6 fuel injectors have power and injector pulse when engine is cranking
The next thing I'd try is to unplug the MAF sensor to see if that makes a difference. If that doesn't work, try to open up the exhaust prior to the the catalytic converters. This might be easiest to achieve by unscrewing the upstream oxygen sensor from each bank.
Yes everything right....I have already unplugged that MAF sensor.....I'll go ahead and take the o2 sensors and try that....will let you know what happens....thanks again!
well i took out the 2 o2 sensor .....it did start running......im guessing i gotta a plugged exhaust......i guess that might of caused the overheating problem?
Oh, good find. I suppose it's possible that the restricted exhaust might have cause some overheating. Did you actually see the gauge read that it was overheating, or just there was steam from under the hood and the engine stalled, wouldn't restart, and found a broken heater hose? If the engine truly overheated, it's possible that the catalytic converter melted (maybe there's also a misfire?) and the exhaust restriction caused the engine to stall and not restart. Or maybe the coolant spraying under the hood caused a misfire that caused one or both converters to overheat and plug, etc.
But if the engine truly overheated, I doubt that the plugged exhaust would have been the root cause of the overheating.