Switched 12 volt source?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2025
Posts: 67
Likes: 34
From: Butler County, IA
Switched 12 volt source?
'65 Flareside, with a swapped 302 and 4bbl. What's the best/easiest spot to get a switched 12 volt source? I need to run a switched 12v hot to the choke and (probably) eventually an electronic ignition dist.
See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,936
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From: Mariposa, Ca.
If you aren’t trying to stay 100% stock - Blue Sea, who make lots of marine electrical parts, makes at least one combination panel that has circuits from an unswitched as well as a switched sources. You’ll have to take care of the wiring for it. It also has a ground bus bar in addition to the switched and unswitched bars, and there are provisions for fuses for each circuit coming off the bus bars. The best place to locate that or any auxiliary panel is on the inner fender, as close as possible to your battery. Best practice is, in my opinion, a separate ground wire instead of relying on bonding things through the body. This is what is done on motorcycles.
Last edited by ibuzzard; Dec 30, 2025 at 07:30 PM.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2025
Posts: 67
Likes: 34
From: Butler County, IA
Thanks. For the future electronic ignition, it looks like I should pull from the "C" terminal off the ign switch, before it turns into the dreaded PINK resistor wire.
It would be a different thread, but I haven't messed with points in a LONG time and no longer have my old Penske/Craftsman dwell meter.
It would be a different thread, but I haven't messed with points in a LONG time and no longer have my old Penske/Craftsman dwell meter.
Last edited by gstrom99; Dec 31, 2025 at 07:52 AM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Southern California
If you are going to run switched ignition straight off the switch, before the resistor for ignition, I would use that same source to trip a relay for the choke, and power the choke straight from the batt side of solenoid.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
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From: Washington
This is the best method for the electric choke.
The choke doesn't start to pull OFF until after the engine starts.
Using the Key ON method, the choke will pull OFF if you leave the key ON for a while, before starting the engine. Sometimes the 12 volt power is run through an oil pressure switch, to keep this from happening.
Jim
The choke doesn't start to pull OFF until after the engine starts.
Using the Key ON method, the choke will pull OFF if you leave the key ON for a while, before starting the engine. Sometimes the 12 volt power is run through an oil pressure switch, to keep this from happening.
Jim
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2025
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From: Butler County, IA
What is the running voltage of the Stator terminal on the alternator? I haven't checked mine (yet), but read online that it is only 7 - 8 volts. Edelbrock instructs that the choke needs 12 volts, and specifically says "NOT TO COIL OR ALTERNATOR". At 8 volts, it won't fully open.
I think I'm still asking ya'll for a better "keyed 12v source"...
I think I'm still asking ya'll for a better "keyed 12v source"...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Just connect it to the center terminal on the ignition switch with an inline fuse. There aren't a lot of options with the switches in these trucks. The center terminal is the accessory terminal it is hot on run and acc. The red wire that the pink resistor wire is connected to is only hot on run, but you aren't supposed to connect the choke to the coil wire so that one is out.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 207
From: Washington
What is the running voltage of the Stator terminal on the alternator? I haven't checked mine (yet), but read online that it is only 7 - 8 volts. Edelbrock instructs that the choke needs 12 volts, and specifically says "NOT TO COIL OR ALTERNATOR". At 8 volts, it won't fully open.
I think I'm still asking ya'll for a better "keyed 12v source"...
I think I'm still asking ya'll for a better "keyed 12v source"...
I did some bench testing to see the time difference, use 7 volts compared to 12 volts.
I found it took one minute longer to open the choke FULL open, when using 7 volts.
You should just test this on the truck, run the wire from the stator output to the electric choke and then start the engine see if the choke fully opens.
You shouldn't use the coil positive as a power source because it's downstream of the pink resistor wire. Additional loads on the resistor wire cause it to get to hot and this also lowers the coil positive voltage.
Regarding a 12 volt key ON source.
1) So you could run a wire from the key switch.
2) Some Carb install instructions recommend using the alternator Stator output to trigger a relay. This solves the problem of the choke starting to pull before the engine is actually running. The longer the time it takes to (crank) start the engine, the more the choke butterfly moves. The more it moves, the harder it is to start the engine.
It also keeps all the wiring in the engine compartment.
Personally I feel you are over thinking this. The simplest approach is usually better.
Jim
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,928
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What is the running voltage of the Stator terminal on the alternator? I haven't checked mine (yet), but read online that it is only 7 - 8 volts. Edelbrock instructs that the choke needs 12 volts, and specifically says "NOT TO COIL OR ALTERNATOR". At 8 volts, it won't fully open.
I think I'm still asking ya'll for a better "keyed 12v source"...
I think I'm still asking ya'll for a better "keyed 12v source"...
Edelbrock doesn’t build cars. Ford used the stator terminal for a power source for the electric choke for many years.
My 63 and 72 are both wired off of the stator terminal.
Last edited by BobbyFord; Jan 1, 2026 at 01:53 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2025
Posts: 67
Likes: 34
From: Butler County, IA
I agree on the "you're over thinking this". I do that alot. Yes, Edelbrock didn't build the truck, but they DID build put their name/decal on the carb. I've got some tinkering to do.
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 974
From: Tri Cities, TN
A pure electric choke will never give you that just start it and drive off type of operation that the factory engineered systems did, but they work good enough to get the thing running.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2025
Posts: 67
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From: Butler County, IA
From the wiring diagram I have, there appears to be a connector before the resistor (pink) part of the ignition feed wire coming off the switch. Is that a standard size male/female connector that I can disconnect and just run a new wire? I read a post here (2024) that Ford used proprietary size (.180" - per CropDuster - thanks) plugin connectors. Is there a source for these special sized ones? I'd rather just pull the Ford bullet connector (pink wire) and run a new wire, not splice in with a "Scotch connector" - I don't like those.
Last edited by gstrom99; Jan 2, 2026 at 09:23 AM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 974
From: Tri Cities, TN
I believe NAPA has the correct connectors. They will most likely be behind the counter just ask the parts guy. If not, they are available online. The female bullet connector you mentioned is only used for the (pink)coil wire, but it is full power from the battery. If you use that you will need to add a wire to it because if you unplug the pink wire, you won't need a choke since the engine won't run no matter what. You might want to check the voltage drop on that wire with the engine running since there is no power on that wire when the engine is cranking.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2025
Posts: 67
Likes: 34
From: Butler County, IA
I believe NAPA has the correct connectors. They will most likely be behind the counter just ask the parts guy. If not, they are available online. The female bullet connector you mentioned is only used for the (pink)coil wire, but it is full power from the battery. If you use that you will need to add a wire to it because if you unplug the pink wire, you won't need a choke since the engine won't run no matter what. You might want to check the voltage drop on that wire with the engine running since there is no power on that wire when the engine is cranking.