I don’t have a lot of room and the it looks like the pan is a little different. I’ll have to see what they have say.

 

Before we go any further, the SERVICE REPLACEMENT COVER for 1954/55 was a 1956 SERVICE PART which may make your cover unique. Might want to save it for someone that wants a dedicated restoration.

The 55/57 BIRD cover (B7S 6519-A) was also used on the 1958-59 FYB PASS CAR engines.

With that protrusion on the intake, you most likely will have to use the adapter as it will (should) offset that boss.

Do you want the modification to be somewhat hidden to maintain original appearance or do you mind the alteration as being seen?

 

I would prefer to keep it hidden to keep the original appearance.

 

Understand.

In that case you would want an install appearing as -

 

Yes, that is what I had in mind initially. I was even considering blanking off the road draft tube but leaving it in place.

 

Do you see how the adapter gets around the fitting on this ILL or the mounting boss on your present manifold (if needed at all)? You may or may not need the adapter.

Or you can use a valve with an elbow -


Another consideration is how tall of a CARB SPACER to use that will allow you to add a manifold vacuum source fitting (final ACL HGT).

I also understand your wanting to keep the cyl. block ROAD DRAFT for correct appearance. But it has to be remounted using a complete block-off plate (shim stock) and gaskets.

 

I have found the carb risers on line and the guy I initially talked to at CASCO said they may be able to machine one for me. They make them for the T-Birds but my truck has a 94 Holley 2 barrel which is a different foot print.

I’m currently using the only intake manifold for the brake booster I added so I will need the carb riser to make it work.

I haven’t decided on the draft tube yet because I would have to cut off the tube that drains the oil back to the crank case. So the jury is still out on that.

 

Quote:

... because I would have to cut off the tube that drains the oil back to the crank case. So the jury is still out on that.

You're ahead of me, should you modify the road draft tube. Maybe consider finding another take-off to modify and keep yours (original install).

Here is a 1" PHENOLIC SPACER (to isolate carb from engine heat) -

 

I used an aluminum spacer and a couple extra gaskets to help insulate the carb. When I got the truck there was a stack of gaskets under the carb so I figured that I needed something. Do you think it would be possible to drill and tap that phenolic spacer for a hose barb that I could use as a vacuum port?. From what I have read, its best to use the carb to evenly distribute the fumes and not burden just a few cylinders.

 

I have used phoenix quite a bit in building long bows. I can’t say for sure that any specific piece of phenolic can be drilled and tapped, as there are many types of phenolic.

But as a whole, yes phenolic can be drilled and tapped. Think of it almost like a very high density wood. It can be drilled and tapped, but it will be best to use a coarse thread. Fine threads will likely break off.

 

Thanks, I may give that shot. It sounds like it should be easy to with.

 

Well the Road Draft tube is only part of the problem on any of our engines as far as a few oil drops on the driveway or floor are concerned. That just goes with the territory, a few oil drops, right?

 

The phenolic spacer can be drilled and tapped to accept an adapter.

If you do go either steel or alum, be sure to use a thick gasket between the carb and spacer. This will also hinder heat absorption.

Check for air cleaner/hood clearance.
https://www.dashman.net/product.php?id=168

https://www.millworkshotrod.com/prod...r-stromberg-97

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Strom...ts,417636.html

 

I have seen those spacers on line and wondered if they were efficient being wide open between the 2 ports. I’m going to assume that being only an inch they are fine but just wondered about tuning the carb.

 

yes I agree it goes with the territory but would still rather avoid it.