My modded 7.5L is NOT stock at ~370hp/480tq(crank), still NA and stock mass-air (96-97 CA-spec) Ford SEFI. Even accounting for gross (flywheel vs net hp ratings) that's still 25% better than the stock 245hp/395tq (SAE net power figures) and still on 87 octane. Yeah, it is at the ragged edge of what the factory mass-air ECU can handle, but that's all I need for my towing 10k trailer at normal RPMs.

BTW, the car I learned to drive was a 385hp/510tq (BHP) '68 Olds Delta Custom 455 2-dr fastback... I like TORQUE, baby!!!

 

If I had that much power, I probably would not be doing what I am currently doing. If I was smart, I would purchase a newer truck. I've had my truck since 1997 and I really don't want to part with it.

I am guessing that I will have at least 600hp/torque. There are not a lot of dyno charts with a Kenne-Bell supercharger. The little there are, the engines were designed around maximum power. I don't plan on going over 5,000 rpm. I just want to be content that if I am going up a pass, that it will be fine at 3,000rpm at 60mph. Anything more than 30mph that I am doing now would be nice.

I plan on using the stock EEC-IV. With a larger MAF and injectors and the assistance of the Tweecer, should allow me to do that. I have used the Tweecer for a couple years now and I have improved my fuel economy from 5 to 7 mpg. More importantly, the overbuilt E4OD shifts timing and quality is great.

I learned to drive with a 70hp VW Rabbit and an 65 Toyota when I lived in Japan.

 

Is that 5 to 7 mpg unloaded or pulling a trailer? The engine builder that did my machine work tried to talk me into doing a 393 stroker, but I stayed stock stroke to try and maintain fuel economy. I'm averaging about 14.5 mpg unloaded, but got about 7-9 pulling my 28 foot travel trailer loaded full of stuff from Idaho to Kentucky. Eight thousand pounds is all I probably care to pull any distance with this setup, but it will still go over the hills pretty good with that behind it.

 

Towing. 90% of the time, this truck is towing so I honestly can't say what the unloaded mpg is. When I got it in 97, the best I ever got was about 17-18mpg [no supercharger] When I had a slide in camper, it was about 10mpg, with the supercharger. I really had the right power with the supercharger and the slide in camper. I could go 65mph with ease without dropping down to 3rd.

My goal is not fuel economy, but power to maintain speed. I just want to keep 60-65mph [in 4th gear] in all conditions. I accept that I will have to be in 3rd gear going up passes. I'm not looking to go 70+ with my 5th wheel. Too many other problems at that speed.

Looking at your truck specs, it looks pretty good.

 

I think that fuel economy is to be expected with anything when towing. My 2012 Tundra was the same and I've even had diesel guys tell me single digit numbers also. Diesel guys like to haul some huge trailers though. If I could do only one more major modification to this truck, it would be putting a Gear Vendors overdrive on it. On a steep grade, I am running in 3rd gear at about 4000 rpm to maintain 55 mph. Faster than that seems to be rough on these rv trailers.

 

I tend to overthink way too much. I research way too often. The only decision I would redo is to convert my E4OD to a 6R80/6R100. I don't think I will do that anytime soon. The more I think about that as an option the more I kick myself for not doing this. A 1st gear that can help me get going and a taller gear for the freeway.

I spent a lot of time upgrading and modifying my E4OD to handle loads only a diesel can produce. Like my 408 build, I purchased a core and spent months buying the HD parts. I also spent some time with my lathe to make some room for more clutches, and weeks assembling everything once I got everything together. I figured I would do that first in anticipation for the stronger engine. I've taken out the transmission a few times to dial the shifts in. Right now, it's almost perfect. Thanks to the Tweecer.

 

You are only overthinking if you start to go insane. My engine was originally intended to go into a 1991 F150 with an E4OD. My wife managed to total our Tundra and I decided I needed a heavier duty truck and we came across the one I have now for pretty cheap. I was relieved, since I wasn't going to have to deal with the E4OD issues. It's a tough transmission if built properly, it sounds like.

 

I am no Ford expert, but like a lot of manufacturers, I think some things are pushed to the public way before it should. Nothing can be built perfectly because by the time the R/D is done, the item would be outdated. So, they make something that is about 90% and then let the clients do the last QC. It's not just Ford thing.

After all the research I did before I dove into my E4OD, it appears that the E4OD started out to be about 80%. When it came out, there were so many issues, they were spending most of their time fixing this turd, instead of making minor fixes. It took years to fix and fine tune the transmission. Probably a good reason why they changed the transmission name to 4R100.

If you get a newer [95 and newer] and modify/upgrade that, it's worth the money. If you got an early 90's, then it's best to get a newer core and start with that. Probably cheaper. If you ever want to update your transmission, you really should look at the 6R80/6R100 option. It might not be for you, but at least you can make that choice.

 

Yes, the E4OD was improved over the years, just like the mechanically-controlled AOD evolved into the electronically-controlled AOD-E, 4R70W and ultimately the 4R75W.. Early C-6s C-4s likewise had issues that were 'fixed' in later years as well. The transmissions get oiling modifications, valving/servo modifications, and some seals are upgraded as service repairs find weaknesses.

That said, like yours @1Butcher , my '95's E4OD is being rebuilt to later model year Diesel-strength spec, just to avoid any issues down the road. The original E4OD made it to 185k miles with no issues (and evidence of Fifth-wheel towing duty from mounting holes in the bed) , and is only being rebuilt because I plan to work it hard towing a 10k# trailer behind my trucks new more powerful engine. The two-piece supercab driveshaft is also getting a refresh at a local specialty shop, Just because. New U-joints, new middle carrier bearing... As I approach 70yo, this is the last truck I'll ever own.

 

We have a lot in common. Fixing things before they break. Updating things to meet our wants. Too old and stubborn to buy a new truck.

I plan on doing my U Joints because......well just because I don't want to do them on the side of the road. I too have a two piece driveshaft so the carrier bearing will be done then. I've got the resources to do my own work and at 64, I am still capable. Too much of tight wad to allow someone else to do the work. If I am going to be upset with poor quality work, I want to yell at myself.

I may have mentioned but my E4OD has the steel gearsets including the 6 planet from the 4R100. I read about the clutch cage being weaker, but I figured, I will not ever treat the transmission that harsh. Billet input shaft and extra clutches everywhere. Kolene and GPx clutches. Not the thin ones either. I was able to turn the cast iron coast clutch drum to accept one more clutch on my lathe. Heavy duty one-way clutches too [both of them].

If you could bolt my transmission to a diesel, it will be fine.

To keep on topic, my 4" CLR U bends came in today. Probably not going to work on them because there is a bathroom sink that has a leaking faucet. Not certain what takes more time. A 30 year old Ford truck or a 100 year old house.

 

I'm still moving forward on this. Just busy with getting my clients cars completed.

I have tacked up all the pipes for the drivers side. The collector is tacked where I want it, but the pipes are not tacked to it. I need to remove this header, remove the pipes off the flange, and back purge/finish weld each tube. Then finish weld the tubes to the flange. Once that is completed, I can weld the spikes and collector to it. There is one pipe I might want to redo. I'm thinking I might do it if there are enough sections left when I am done.

The collector will be modified to what works, once the header is completely welded up. Right now, it's just held in a place I want it.

This is taking a long time to fit each pipe, but then again, I figured that before I started. It just make me appreciate what real professionals do.

I believe I mentioned, this is not designed around maximum power/efficiency. The tubes are not equal length and probably not routed properly. Fit was the highest goal. Finish is the second priority.

 

You are doing all this fitment outside of the truck?
Have the tubes that run on an angle right at the engine/trans mating location going to clear the firewall?

 

Kinda sorta.

On my first attempt, I had the truck in the air [I have a lift] and I eyeballed the area as I built. Lots of looking, measuring, looking and measuring. I always figured engines were centered in the engine build. I never really looked, just as assumption on my part. This engine is more on the passengers side by a few inches [no official measurements]. Probably for the 4WD components I don't have. So, the drivers side has a lot of room to run it anywhere you want. The steering shaft is out of the way. The only real issue is the transmission shift cable. I suspect I can deal with the heat issue and routing when it's installed. I am really satisfied the drivers side will be a piece of cake.

As for the passengers side, same thing but tighter. A lot of looking, measuring, looking, and measuring. The starter, frame, and firewall are the obstacles to be concerned with. Once I get the pipes down to the transmission, there is a lot more room since I will only have 1 pipe to deal with vs two pipes. Right now, the pipes are high enough not to effect with the starter and low enough not to be in the way of the firewall. I believe there will be enough room to take out the transmission but it is very close. When I start the rear section of the passengers side, I will have the truck back in the air to look and measure again.

I know that I run a huge risk of these headers fitting. I will probably confirm these fit before I put in the stroker. The problem is that these headers will not fit my current heads because of the stock bolt pattern. I am thinking of making some temporary braces on these headers to see if they will fit the stock set up I have. I just don't want to deal with taking the stock exhaust off, fit these headers, then put the stock stuff back on again.

 

Those are looking really nice. You're doing great job.

 

@wwhite Well I took your advice and I looked and measured several more times. I think you are right, so much that I'm modifying the pipes to drop down sooner. I should be done with the mock up tomorrow. Although I think they would have cleared, better to know than to think. I am certain the passengers side are turning down sooner, but I will double and triple check to make certain.

I hate when someone calls me out, but what is worse is when they are right. Thanks for helping take me head out of my ***