I have a 1988 F350 Custom, crew cab, long bed with a real tired 351W that, after exempted in PA and inherited by the grandson, it sat. But its technically got only roughly 132k or so miles on it. I have been working on removing the injectors out and am at the point I am just going to give it socks and if the fuel rail breaks then that happens. However, I am going to put it in storage for a few months while I save up for a engine swap. I am a teacher but I get a bonus at the end of school year (Can use roughly $2,500 of it for engine). I will have about $1,500 saved by then. And I got a great summer job that is all profit so can push about $2,500 post tax, more if I decide to do 40 hours/week to school starting (I can go in when I'm off at will to make up the difference). I do not want anything super high end, my budget is more to allow for anything else I may need like a aftermarket ECU, upgraded fuel system (like swapping to in tank only pumps if able or one of the kits that connects the tanks to cut down on pumps) since the bed is getting removed while in storage to run new lines, etc. Or a newer transmission/upgrades for my stock one. I would like to eventually add a doubler since its already so heavy.

My plan for the truck is daily driving, mild (is that the one under moderate?) towing/hauling, and somewhat casual overlanding. My family has enough trucks so I do not need to worry about getting weighted plates in NC. My idea was to get a old school bed topper, with rack, and one of those drawer systems in the bed. Then I can sleep on top of the drawers easily, I assume. A good mid engine that is easy to maintain, even in the field, if what I would like. Seems 350-450hp seems to be a good mid point.

I was thinking of a stroker engine using the 351W but I am open to other, hopefully easier, options. I do need to get it going in May even if that is just starting removal. I am unsure if I want EFI or a Carbed setup with a electronic system like a Holly Sniper (Not this one necessarily, only one I remember) and a hood scoop or something punching through the hood. I do want to try and keep some stuff simple mechanically. When I swap in 05 axles in the for example I will install the bearing kits that let me still use the 8x6.5 tires. And truck already sits so high compared to modern trucks (2010 Dodge Ram and a 2018 Tacoma) by the time I have the 2 inch lift and bigger tires its going to be tall even for me. So a good fab company for rock sliders I can tilt down for a step is also needed even at 6'5".

I will be able to use my parents garage/driveway for the swap, if its possible to get a turn key one. I am also open to even a salvage motor that I can rebuild, but my free storage is a limited time thing so would need to get to it early. There's a daunting glut of options with obs fords. However, I have seen some that will send everything separate and you put it together, I think its cheaper? I can do that and I have people I can draw from to help in assembly. My father specifically, he found the same make, model, and year of his first motorcycle and already stripped it, and labeled everything he could (First time my mom went to his place the bike was in pieces on the dining table). He also had a long career inspecting naval aircraft so is also versed in tolerances, I still use him for advice on calipers.

My issue is I am a history teacher so am fluent in research, pertaining to what I teach, and there are so many opinions and technical data. So any help is very much appreciated. Other than wishing I got a 87 (birth year) this is my dream truck. And the custom model lets me add things when I want them. Like a electric window kit or power door lock kit. Anyone know if there is a kit to made the back window a up/down slider? Ha.

If I had the money and means I would actually swap in a rebuilt 7.3 IDI (I think that's the right one) or a Godzilla engine since I have plenty of time during the summer, like when my wife and mother are on a 2 week hike in Scotland.

 

The combination in my signature would cost a bit over $10k to build with all new parts and probably produces close to 400 bhp. A stroker probably wouldn't cost a lot more to build and should be just as simple as building a stock stroke engine. The stroker with bigger heads and intake could put you north of 500 hp/tq should you chose to go that far. If you put too much power into it, plan on a transmission upgrade, also.

 

Keep doing what was suggested in your fuel rail thread. You should at least be able to remove the fuel rail and then you can get a better grip on each injector to remove it. They will eventually come out. Putting a pair of socks on the engine won’t do anything. Last time I looked new fuel rails were not available so if you do break it you are looking at finding used or a different EFI system.

There is no reason to convert to the newer system with high pressure pumps in each tank. There are multiple threads where people are having trouble getting decent fuel pump assemblies (FDMs). I am running the stock fuel pumps in my ‘89. I thought I might have to change the high pressure pump on the frame but they are not having any trouble keeping up with the 408.

Your budget is not nearly enough. A stock replacement long block will cost $3K then you have fluids, hoses and other odds and ends to get. You don’t want “super high end” but talk about a stroker which is going to get pretty close to a $10K price tag.

The transmission should be a C6 so a Stinger PiMPx computer is another $800 and then you will need to figure out how to tune it.

Your post seemed all over the place. A mild rebuild but then you might want a 393 or 408? I suggest reading through some engine build threads and do some more pricing of what you want then compare that information to what you said your intended use of the will be. You could easily be over $10K with some of the things you mentioned.

 

That thing is going to need torque, lots of it. Don't chase peak power numbers. What you want is the area under the power curve across the RPM range. A properly setup stoker small block can get you 500 ft/lbs and carry through the lower RPMs. A stroked big block is 600+. Pair it with a mild cam that's all done at 5000 RPM and a moderate 9:1 compression so you don't have to run premium. Mileage shouldn't even be a consideration with either build as it's going to be **** either way.

If it were me I'd start with a late model factory roller 351 block and build that. Using a block that has factory provisions to roller cams is much cheaper than having to spend the money for retrofit rollers. Use good heads, but don't go gonzo with too large. You want the smaller CC runner heads for a low RPM torque motor.

 

I was thinking a 408 for a 351W. That should let me drop it in I think?

I am still going to give it another good go at the injectors but I do want to try and settle on a engine that I can look for and start saving. The engine has been the burnt of the issues with this truck, though not really its fault. Originally I was going to upgrade the suspension first with a 05 SD axle conversion in the front and a shackle flip in the back with softer leaf springs and bag helpers.

 

408 physically will drop right in. If you chose your cam correctly, you can use speed density and get a tuner program.

 

That looks to be my goal then. A few more attempts at just sending it for the injectors this weekend as I collect ideas from the other thread too. Then storage for a bit I think.

Worse part is I got some solid driving it in and had a blast before the issues.

 

I have to disagree with flashing the factory ECU. It's 40 years old at this point and so is the wiring. Toss a dual plane intake on top of the motor and use a Sniper EFI setup with timing control. A factory locked out distributor can trigger the Sniper (no need for a new billet one). This is the least headache and cost inclined approach. I'm running a second gen Sniper unit on a 512ci Mopar - it's an animal.

 

I just want something simple, easy to work on myself even if its on a trail. Even when its going again, I still have inspections to do since it died on me. There is a mystery toggle switch that I think was an attempted seat warmer. There is a patch on the seat and a unplugged wire from the floor up into the seat. Then there is the old brake controller I will need to upgrade. And a random wire hooked into a break socket.

Plus the 4x4 needs to be tested.