Oil analysis results
Using as one of a few tools to gauge a future build, I decided to get an oil analysis done. I’m pleased with the results for the most part. I’m not sure why my viscosity is lower than expected. I did research and chose valvoline high mileage as it was supposed to be of higher zinc content. Back to the drawing board on that I guess. I want the higher zinc to help protect my new flat tappet cam as well as the bearings. When I bought the truck, I had no true knowledge on the history of the motor. My best guess is full original. If not, it was changed more than 20 years so for sure. I use the amount of broken bolts and seized parts as a guide. The truck lived its life here in GA based on Carfax. My plan is put mild forced induction at some point.
Any builders out there that have input on the results are welcome!
Next step is to do leak down test to see how rings are holding and then plastigage rod and mains.
Last edited by 90project5.0; Dec 29, 2025 at 04:46 PM.
When you use a product like you are (and nothing wrong with it), increasing ZINC levels also requires using less detergent/dispersal packages as they can/will cause oil aeration. More frequent changes are required according to oil analysis.
I never saw about adding zinc and aeration, so that’s good to know!
I can’t every 3 months which is roughly 2k miles during summer, less in winter.
I have her tuned to stay around 13.9-14 AFR driving. Idle is around 14.4
EDIT: I cut the fuel dilation out when I cropped it! Sorry!
Last edited by 90project5.0; Dec 29, 2025 at 05:49 PM.
It (and it is not a full racing oil but a HP street oil) gives increased protection for earlier design street engines (flat tappet).
It cannot (or should not) be used in late model engines as the zinc will foul a convertor and lessened needed detergents.
“ It is not blended to today's standards (detergents) as to reduce possible tappet wear.”
Are you saying that it doesn’t have the correct additives for what I need? Asking for clarification, not argument! If not, what is your recommendation?
Last edited by 90project5.0; Dec 29, 2025 at 06:19 PM.
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The boy has lost his reading comprehension skills ... (3rd GRADE was a B!TCH!)
I mis-read. You are using HIGH MILEAGE OIL vs ZR-1?
How did you come across that recommendation?
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It (and it is not a full racing oil but a HP street oil) gives increased protection for earlier design street engines (flat tappet).
It cannot (or should not) be used in late model engines as the zinc will foul a convertor and lessened needed detergents.
It is a fresh engine ... how was it run-in, on an engine dyno or in-frame? What makes you think it has excessive wear without a tear-down?
Engine longevity is based on quality machining, quality parts and careful assembly.
Did you run the engine in with break-in oil and change w/filter to street oil after break-in? After break-in and possibly some low mileage driving (easy), the initial oil fill has to be dropped to rid the engine of trash.
Only top end rebuild on motor with new cam and lifters, timing chain and rebuilt (ported, milled, new springs and 1.72rr) heads. I haven’t touched bottom end. Break in was in truck with zddp added with oil for first 1k miles before using valvoline high miles.
oil change was done after 40 minute run, 200 miles, another 250 miles and then another 500.
Last edited by 90project5.0; Dec 30, 2025 at 06:50 AM.
These photos are what started me looking into the lower end from cutting open the oil filter when my oil pressure randomly dropped one day. Changed oil and filter and it came back up. This is about 10k after cam install.
Exactly what is the application (and how will be used) and how big of a cam did you use? The oil pressure was good before the top end was done (you performed oil pressure readings - compression and leak down tests)?
You are planning a TURBO on the street? I would use a different oil.
HIGH MILEAGE OILS are meant for high mileage engines, not performance engines.











