2017 steering column lock
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7th Gear
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2017 steering column lock
My '17 F150 Lariat is not letting steering column lock release sometimes. It seems to be related to ambient temps with colder temps bringing this on.
Looking at parts diagrams they're a few different potential setups. My lariat has column shift and keyless ignition (push button).
I've been reading about importance of voltage Ave I'm trying to figure out whether this could play a role. In invite this is still factory battery so it's getting aged.
I am confused as there is definitely a lock - but there so no relay for steering column lock in fuse box. Also no fuse in #18 which is super to be steering colum lock fuse
So I'm stumped and if anybody had experience or suggestions - I'm all ears.
Thanks in advance.
Looking at parts diagrams they're a few different potential setups. My lariat has column shift and keyless ignition (push button).
I've been reading about importance of voltage Ave I'm trying to figure out whether this could play a role. In invite this is still factory battery so it's getting aged.
I am confused as there is definitely a lock - but there so no relay for steering column lock in fuse box. Also no fuse in #18 which is super to be steering colum lock fuse
So I'm stumped and if anybody had experience or suggestions - I'm all ears.
Thanks in advance.
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From: San Antonio, TX
Welcome to FTE, cowsandcorn,
I would not look past voltage. Fords do weird things when the battery starts to get weak, like gauges acting strangely, or misfires. However, if the battery is good, I would probably consider how worn the push button ignition switch is. A simple replacement may be all that's needed.
I would not look past voltage. Fords do weird things when the battery starts to get weak, like gauges acting strangely, or misfires. However, if the battery is good, I would probably consider how worn the push button ignition switch is. A simple replacement may be all that's needed.
Fleet Mechanic
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I also would suspect battery. My 2020 if it sits a couple day can have a rested charge under 12 vdc, and that is very borderline for the various electronics. Good luck, replacing the battery would not be wasted money, it's time anyway you look at it.
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7th Gear
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Welcome to FTE, cowsandcorn,
I would not look past voltage. Fords do weird things when the battery starts to get weak, like gauges acting strangely, or misfires. However, if the battery is good, I would probably consider how worn the push button ignition switch is. A simple replacement may be all that's needed.
I would not look past voltage. Fords do weird things when the battery starts to get weak, like gauges acting strangely, or misfires. However, if the battery is good, I would probably consider how worn the push button ignition switch is. A simple replacement may be all that's needed.
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7th Gear
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Welcome to FTE, cowsandcorn,
I would not look past voltage. Fords do weird things when the battery starts to get weak, like gauges acting strangely, or misfires. However, if the battery is good, I would probably consider how worn the push button ignition switch is. A simple replacement may be all that's needed.
I would not look past voltage. Fords do weird things when the battery starts to get weak, like gauges acting strangely, or misfires. However, if the battery is good, I would probably consider how worn the push button ignition switch is. A simple replacement may be all that's needed.
I looked around and new battery is $209. I checked it sitting in the garage this morning and it showed about 11.7. Which would ordinarily not even cause me any concern - but apparently below 12.1 is a potential concern - is that kind of right?
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From: San Antonio, TX
Huh. I had not heard of push buttons needing replaced. Thanks for the tip.
I looked around and new battery is $209. I checked it sitting in the garage this morning and it showed about 11.7. Which would ordinarily not even cause me any concern - but apparently below 12.1 is a potential concern - is that kind of right?
I looked around and new battery is $209. I checked it sitting in the garage this morning and it showed about 11.7. Which would ordinarily not even cause me any concern - but apparently below 12.1 is a potential concern - is that kind of right?
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7th Gear
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Yes. Any battery with a sitting voltage below 12 is going to be a problem in these newer, electronic heavy vehicles. 12.5 would be better yet. I'm surprised that vehicles didn't go 24 or 36 volts years ago. Seems crazy that today they still use 12 volts, and there are more electronics yet that must be awakened before the truck is even started.
I suppose just a weak or sticky solenoid. But i cannot figure out a parts diagram online to figure out where I should be looking. If anybody can point me in right direction - that would be appreciated.
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7th Gear
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Seems to be several potential setups with different configurations. The main part # I could see when I had column disassembled was
HL3Z-3C529-HC
I'll have to get it back apart and look deeper into finding lock solenoid. I'm confused as to why my fuse box isn't pinned or have fuse or relay for column lock.
Anyway, thoughts are appreciated about my quandry.
HL3Z-3C529-HC
I'll have to get it back apart and look deeper into finding lock solenoid. I'm confused as to why my fuse box isn't pinned or have fuse or relay for column lock.
Anyway, thoughts are appreciated about my quandry.
Last edited by cowsandcorn; Dec 30, 2025 at 09:09 AM. Reason: Extra text in paste for part #
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Yes. Any battery with a sitting voltage below 12 is going to be a problem in these newer, electronic heavy vehicles. 12.5 would be better yet. I'm surprised that vehicles didn't go 24 or 36 volts years ago. Seems crazy that today they still use 12 volts, and there are more electronics yet that must be awakened before the truck is even started.
Despite the ridiculousness of the Cybertruck, the one thing they got right was switching to a 48VDC system for all the non-drivetrain systems. This allowed them to reduce the size of the wiring (higher voltage = smaller gauge wire = less weight). It also gives you a lot more margin when dealing with things like solenoids, lights, etc.
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Give me the last eight digits of your VIN and I can tell you the correct part number.
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7th Gear
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Sooooo....today I've dug into steering column. I'm 99% certain in looking @ column plus the fact that the slots for column lock relay and fuse aren't pinned in the fusebox - that there is no column lock. Sitting in garage with no key inside vehicle and key/ignition OFF - the column isn't locked.
Pretty sure...we're into some kind of rack problem brought about by the cold? I've found this on slightly older model that I think has same steering system: https://www.f150forum.com/f38/electr...solved-516627/
Also: https://www.f150forum.com/f38/steeri...shifts-468804/
The rack is quite expensive. I know in this model the auto stop turns off the power steering and steering @ light is basically impossible until brake is released. So I suppose before I replace rack I need to do some checks to try to verify that the vehicle is supplying power to the power steering unit. When things warm up - the steering works just fine when not locked. So seems more probable that we're looking at some problem about getting power to the unit due to faulty start/stop or ignition?
Super weird. But I've not worked on this newer stuff much. Thoughts appreciated.
Pretty sure...we're into some kind of rack problem brought about by the cold? I've found this on slightly older model that I think has same steering system: https://www.f150forum.com/f38/electr...solved-516627/
Also: https://www.f150forum.com/f38/steeri...shifts-468804/
The rack is quite expensive. I know in this model the auto stop turns off the power steering and steering @ light is basically impossible until brake is released. So I suppose before I replace rack I need to do some checks to try to verify that the vehicle is supplying power to the power steering unit. When things warm up - the steering works just fine when not locked. So seems more probable that we're looking at some problem about getting power to the unit due to faulty start/stop or ignition?
Super weird. But I've not worked on this newer stuff much. Thoughts appreciated.
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