Checking for fault codes has been stated many times. Were you also on the side of the road back on Dec 17th when you said

Instead you keep disconnecting the battery which clears any active and stored codes, making diagnosing the problem more difficult.

How can you say that you don’t love the E4OD management system when you haven’t even attempted to use it to diagnose what is wrong?

 

I'm not quite clear where the confusion is, maybe it's on my end, but it's not a big deal.

We have well established that it would have been better to grab them the 1st time. The 2nd time was a no go, just rest and gtfo.

I have the scanner handy and ready for when it comes back. Then you will have the codes to read.

The main reason I came back to this thread was to give the roadside work around to anyone who finds themselves in a similar predicament. We already know it's not a proper fix.

As for the E4OD management system, we've all read countless critiques of it and people's love/hate relationship with it. Some love it some hate it. I just miss the old C-6. It was simple and rugged. The E4OD is it's descent, but it just seems to have a lot more issues that aren't physical.

Tegarding the code reading after the fact, I was under the impression the codes go away after the dis/reconnecting of the battery, is that true? If not, then I can still grab them, right?

 

The E4OD is a C6 with overdrive and solenoids shifting the gears instead of hydraulic valves.

Correct. Disconnecting the battery clears the codes. You need to drive the vehicle long enough for them to set again.

 

I swear I used to wonder why the most knowledgeable, skilled & helpful members (who helped me for years) stopped posting.

Not any more.

 

Transmission Range Sensor truly does make more sense than Manual Lever Position Sensor because of the fact the lever indicator can always drift/bemisadjusted/pointer can brea/cable stretches etc while the sensor is after all of that, and is ultimately just "sensing" for you, when properly adjusted, what "range" the transmission is in.

 

You don't miss the C6 when you're fueling up though. Without a locking converter and just direct drive, those old trans were good, yes, but they were only as good for what they were; very basic 3 speeds. When (not if) they broke, you didn't have a code to tell you what broke.
A few electrical sensors and a basic control unit is a very small price to pay to save so much money in fuel every year. It's easier to scan for a code than it is to disconnect the battery.

 

What I have found is that many people are afraid of electricity and anything with wires going to it. Because of that, they refuse to learn how a computer controlled component works. Sure, when computers first came out, there was a huge learning curve. From designing, building, and diagnosing systems/components. Many people come here and complain that their truck does not work right, but they refuse to do the basics [ie check codes, voltages, etc]. They almost refuse to do the basics and then complain the system is junk. Sure, these trucks are well over 30 years old and many are tired. Many have been worked on by hacks, but that is no excuse not to do the basics before you jump on Amazon to buy the cheapest part that might be the right part number.

Once you accept that every corner you cut is just another wrong turn/waste of money, the sooner you will realize checking for codes is mandatory and there is no excuse not to do that first. I like testing even if it's just to prove my hunch was right.

It's funny how so much good advice is shared and the OP thinks they are being picked on. Would you rather have someone warn you that a car was coming when you are crossing the street or just let us watch you get hit. I guess, you would rather complain 'Nobody told me'.

 

When I rebuilt a core E4OD I replace most everything. Including the MLPS. Why? Because it's all old and I wanted it to be as trouble free as possible. Wrong move. I have installed several new MLPS and all of them have issues. I should have kept the original one [I am pretty certain it's in the garbage, long gone].

I would not replace the original MLPS unless I knew it was bad. You may have better luck finding a used factory version.

 

i would use an original one from early e4od if i had it in great shape, and i would simply ensure the connector has delectric grease to seal the pins and i would probably bundle the wires out of the connector loosely then do something extreme like encase the back of the connector with epoxy and with a harness tape running up from the wires to probvide strain relief.

But if its like mine is , the middle style (the updated one, but not the digital one) yeah same. which mine is.