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I am finally to the point of wanting to get this done. I still use my truck pretty regularly to haul stuff like dirt and wood, and the brakes just aren't really up to the task. Or maybe my leg strength is declining. I don't see any recent threads on the subject, so I'm hoping some of you have some vendor suggestions. I'll go with a complete kit including the boosted frame mounted master. I looked at this kit https://classicperform.com/shop/5356cbk-5-5 and already see options for booster size (7" or 8")and single or dual diaphragm. I think the default is single 8 inch.
The CPP kit seems to be a good one. Choosing a booster will depend on several factors, but in a nutshell, get the biggest booster you can fit in your space for the most benefit. Dual diaphragm will outperform a single, especially in the smaller diameter sizes. Here's a little light reading from a leading a/m brake manufacturer. https://mpbrakes.com/single-and-dual...ragm-boosters/
Something to consider is a remote reservoir. With the addition of the booster and longer master cylinder, it's not going to come up in the stock location, so the little trap door under the drivers feet will no longer work. The m/c will end up under the seat someplace and make servicing a pain, laying on your back with a mirror and squeeze bottle of fluid. Adding a remote reservoir under the hood will make life much easier for bleeding and servicing.
I have used this type setup before and it works well. One thing that I do not see at first glance is residual pressure check valves. With a frame mounted master they are a absolute must have.
Also you do not mention if the truck is manual or auto but in order to use the stock clutch linkage with this kit you will need this
Do yourself a BIG favor--go with the FIREWALL mount set-up--8" booster with correct ENGINEERED proportioning valve block installed-- EASY WAY TO FILL--BETTER WAY TO GET AIR OUT OF LINES--FRAME MOUNT SET- UP SUCK-- GOOD LUCK
^^^^ all good points, did our 56 maybe 18 years ago using this kit....
* fluid access, a valid point, but the remote is not 100% needed... think of this, jut how often is fluid addition needed.. that squeeze bottle is OK
* yes on the clutch linkage kit, well made and needed. IIRC there's a shaft in the kit to eliminate the clutch pedal when using automatic.
now getting to that shaft and getting the arms off for the new shaft and linkage is a challenge, but 'done'
* the adapter sleeve for the spindle in my instance after heating still took some heavy hammer blows to seat
* had to relocate the kingpin zerk fitting for clearance of the caliper bracket
* YES on check valves, I added even though the instructions stated there were internal residual valves. used 10# for rear and 2# for front.
even after this, the initial pedal travel is a bit long, but not unreasonable
* plumbed the brake light switch in the lines, though some have used a pedal actuated switch
* some may choose to install an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear... I do get some rear lock up still but only once or twice on an "oh snit" moment,
You know, the truck being mostly stock with the 292/column 3 speed, I had not really considered the firewall mount. In my case, this would solve some challenges caused a non stock exhaust and a cross member that I added that will make clearance for the booster difficult. Can I use my stock clutch pedal and linkage if I go firewall mounted?
You know, the truck being mostly stock with the 292/column 3 speed, I had not really considered the firewall mount. In my case, this would solve some challenges caused a non stock exhaust and a cross member that I added that will make clearance for the booster difficult. Can I use my stock clutch pedal and linkage if I go firewall mounted?
I do not see a firewall mount MC as a viable option with a manual trans, you could possible do this but you would have 1 up swing pedal and 1 down swing pedal.
A firewall mount MC is the more practical option but I have not had any problems with the frame mount MC with booster and I love the look of the down swing pedals and
if I were concerned with practicality I would no be driving a 70 year old truck in the first place.
I fought clutch chatter years ago and in my desperation, added the pictured cross member and sourced some mounts that worked. The factory mounting of the light duty 3 speed just looks like it needed support; after all there is a mounting boss cast on the underside of the trans in the right spot- maybe it was used for cars that used the same trans. The cross member didn't do a thing to the clutch chatter which was finally solved with a diapragm style pressure plate.
I have no measured data, but a frame mounted master and booster looks like a tight fit, which is the genesis of the idea for the firewall mounted boosted master. I realize I could simply remove the cross member, but I'm now thinking that a F100 pedal assembly from 1958 through early 60's could be a good option beacuse the pedals are spaced better than they would be with the 2 different pedal styles. I would just need to confirm that the hydraulic clutch slave is compatible with the '56 clutch fork end.
I have a trans x member that looks just like the one that you have and it is not in the way. The master cylinder will end up considerable back from the stock location, the only thing that is above my trans x member is the bellows of the booster and the push rod
The exhaust could possible be in the way.
There is plenty of frame clearance for a 7" diameter brake booster I used Summit Racing SUM-760169
I will attach a picture but it just shows the booster bracket and clutch linkage.
Steve, I think I answered you back on the PM... Never got a PM that way, I dunno... Anyway yes I used complete pedal/swing assembly/hydraulic clutch from 92 F150 in my 56- but I also used the M5r2 5 speed transmission and middle 80's 300 6cyl. It's all in my build thread- it is a long thread-sorry- . It works real good, only thing is brakes are super touchy- I think cuz the actual floor -/ seat position, etc is made to be comfortable for thru the floor pedals.
Are you still using the stock drum brakes? That could explain why they are touchy. Drums are self energizing and may not need as much boost. Master cylinder piston diameter plays into this as well. Either way, I would have to get a later bell housing with the clutch slave mounting boss to have a hanging pedal conversion make sense.
Do yourself a BIG favor--go with the FIREWALL mount set-up--8" booster with correct ENGINEERED proportioning valve block installed-- EASY WAY TO FILL--BETTER WAY TO GET AIR OUT OF LINES--FRAME MOUNT SET- UP SUCK-- GOOD LUCK
Do you know what the master cylinder bore size is on your truck? I am trying to decide on 1" vs 1 1/8".
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