Air pump delete questions
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 114
Likes: 4
Air pump delete questions
I have some questions regarding an air pump/smog pump delete for my 97 f250 351w. Hopefully I can be guided in the right direction.
1: Are there any detailed videos on youtube showing how to do this? I've found a few that are close but don't show everything .
2: Which sensors will need to be bypassed and tricked into thinking the pump is working? And do i need special aftermarket connectors, or resistors? I've heard that both work.
3: I've heard that I can modify the computer to completely remove the emissions system from it, thus being able to remove emissions equipment and not having to trick the computer into thinking its working. Is this true? If so, how can i do it?
4: Will having OBD1 make a difference when doing the delete? Because I have OBD1
any other tips i should know to do this delete would help out alot.
1: Are there any detailed videos on youtube showing how to do this? I've found a few that are close but don't show everything .
2: Which sensors will need to be bypassed and tricked into thinking the pump is working? And do i need special aftermarket connectors, or resistors? I've heard that both work.
3: I've heard that I can modify the computer to completely remove the emissions system from it, thus being able to remove emissions equipment and not having to trick the computer into thinking its working. Is this true? If so, how can i do it?
4: Will having OBD1 make a difference when doing the delete? Because I have OBD1
any other tips i should know to do this delete would help out alot.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,830
Likes: 2,435
As long as it is working as designed, I suggest leaving the system as is.
1) I have no idea since I don’t YouTube. There are several threads here on the air injection system delete process.
2) As long as the TAB and TAD solenoids are plugged into the engine harness the computer thinks the system is working.
3) Maybe but do you have the tuner programs and know how to use them?
4) No.
1) I have no idea since I don’t YouTube. There are several threads here on the air injection system delete process.
2) As long as the TAB and TAD solenoids are plugged into the engine harness the computer thinks the system is working.
3) Maybe but do you have the tuner programs and know how to use them?
4) No.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3,558
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EEC-IV OBD1 computer can be modified using piggy back tuners, like QuarterHorse with TunerProRT software, where you modify the calibration.
THRMHP - If Thermactor air pump hardware is present, set THRMHP = 1, otherwise set THRMHP = 0.
Faking it never works reliably.
THRMHP - If Thermactor air pump hardware is present, set THRMHP = 1, otherwise set THRMHP = 0.
Faking it never works reliably.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 114
Likes: 4
As long as it is working as designed, I suggest leaving the system as is.
1) I have no idea since I don’t YouTube. There are several threads here on the air injection system delete process.
2) As long as the TAB and TAD solenoids are plugged into the engine harness the computer thinks the system is working.
3) Maybe but do you have the tuner programs and know how to use them?
4) No.
1) I have no idea since I don’t YouTube. There are several threads here on the air injection system delete process.
2) As long as the TAB and TAD solenoids are plugged into the engine harness the computer thinks the system is working.
3) Maybe but do you have the tuner programs and know how to use them?
4) No.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
None.
No.
Last edited by Conanski; Dec 8, 2025 at 08:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 114
Likes: 4
3: I've heard that I can modify the computer to completely remove the emissions system from it, [/QUOTE]The computer barely knows it exists. just keep the TAB snd TAD solenoids electrically connected.
4: Will having OBD1 make a difference when doing the delete? Because I have OBD1 [/QUOTE] No.[/QUOTE]
I may have written my 2nd question poorly. What i mean is do i need to plug the sensor into a "dummy plug" that will trick it into thinking its working. I've seen before that you can use resistors, but I dont know what resistor (if i can use it) to use and what things need them after removing the air pump
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 107
Likes: 28
From: Indianapolis IN
[/QUOTE]
I may have written my 2nd question poorly. What i mean is do i need to plug the sensor into a "dummy plug" that will trick it into thinking its working. I've seen before that you can use resistors, but I dont know what resistor (if i can use it) to use and what things need them after removing the air pump[/QUOTE]
you don’t need any dummy plugs or resistors. Just leave the TAB and TAD solenoids electrically connected. People use resistors when those solenoids are unnecessary removed. I recommend you don’t remove them.
I may have written my 2nd question poorly. What i mean is do i need to plug the sensor into a "dummy plug" that will trick it into thinking its working. I've seen before that you can use resistors, but I dont know what resistor (if i can use it) to use and what things need them after removing the air pump[/QUOTE]
you don’t need any dummy plugs or resistors. Just leave the TAB and TAD solenoids electrically connected. People use resistors when those solenoids are unnecessary removed. I recommend you don’t remove them.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
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I may have written my 2nd question poorly. What i mean is do i need to plug the sensor into a "dummy plug" that will trick it into thinking its working. I've seen before that you can use resistors, but I dont know what resistor (if i can use it) to use and what things need them after removing the air pump[/QUOTE]
you don’t need any dummy plugs or resistors. Just leave the TAB and TAD solenoids electrically connected. People use resistors when those solenoids are unnecessary removed. I recommend you don’t remove them. [/QUOTE]
So removing the air pump wont cause problems with the TAB and TAD? It wont make a check engine light go off?
you don’t need any dummy plugs or resistors. Just leave the TAB and TAD solenoids electrically connected. People use resistors when those solenoids are unnecessary removed. I recommend you don’t remove them. [/QUOTE]
So removing the air pump wont cause problems with the TAB and TAD? It wont make a check engine light go off?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 107
Likes: 28
From: Indianapolis IN
[/QUOTE]So removing the air pump wont cause problems with the TAB and TAD? It wont make a check engine light go off?[/QUOTE]
it will not cause a check engine light to come on I’ve ran mine this way ever since my air pump locked up and I removed it along with the rest of that system because I didn’t want to pay for the replacement parts.
it will not cause a check engine light to come on I’ve ran mine this way ever since my air pump locked up and I removed it along with the rest of that system because I didn’t want to pay for the replacement parts.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 114
Likes: 4
So removing the air pump wont cause problems with the TAB and TAD? It wont make a check engine light go off?[/QUOTE]
it will not cause a check engine light to come on I’ve ran mine this way ever since my air pump locked up and I removed it along with the rest of that system because I didn’t want to pay for the replacement parts.[/QUOTE]
Ah ok, i see. Its strange how the sensors wont set off a CEL when emissions equipment is removed. Kinda defeats the purpose of it 🤣
it will not cause a check engine light to come on I’ve ran mine this way ever since my air pump locked up and I removed it along with the rest of that system because I didn’t want to pay for the replacement parts.[/QUOTE]
Ah ok, i see. Its strange how the sensors wont set off a CEL when emissions equipment is removed. Kinda defeats the purpose of it 🤣
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 107
Likes: 28
From: Indianapolis IN
.[/QUOTE]Ah ok, i see. Its strange how the sensors wont set off a CEL when emissions equipment is removed. Kinda defeats the purpose of it 🤣[/QUOTE]
well that’s because solenoids are basically switches not sensors. You are talking about 30yr old technology.
well that’s because solenoids are basically switches not sensors. You are talking about 30yr old technology.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,830
Likes: 2,435
What sensors are you talking about? Like we said, if the TAB and TAD solenoids aren’t plugged into then you will get a check engine light.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 112
Likes: 15
I've got a '96 F250 w/ 351 and removed the air pump and everything that went with it including the tab and tad and the truck ran better. I removed all the canisters and vacuum lines also. The only problem I had was I removed the vacuum line that went to the MAP sensor and forgot to replace it. Once we got that straight everything was fine. The hardest part was getting one of the air pump bracket bolts loose but it just took time being easy with it. The nuts that connect the air pipe to the back of the exhuast manifolds came off fairly easy after heating them with map gas. I do have a CEL but I think it's because I removed the EGR which I may put back on. They claim 75ohm resistors in the tab and tad connectors will fool the computer so I put them in but don't know if it did anything. I also went with a shorter belt instead of the air pump dummy pulley and it works fine. I had a pile of parts after it was all said and done. The YouTube video I found most helpful was one with a Bronco but it still didn't show allot. Just get in there and and take off anything emissions related.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 112
Likes: 15
I forgot to add on my truck the only thing I had to buy was a shorter belt. The air pipe did not connect to the heads it connected to each exhuast manifold. I cut the pipe welded holes shut and reinstalled. I did buy the dongle for the egr but I doubt it did anything and I'd leave the egr next time.