I have time to look at my truck now but I'm at a disadvantage without my OBDII adapter to run Forscan or TorquePro or my fuel pressure gauge set-up. And, I've forgotten most of the little bit I knew about these engines. Still, I feel real confident that Jack diagnosed my problem as a bad injector(s) pushing compression gas into the fuel rail. The symptoms match up with that - prime the pump and fuel system, and the truck starts with a miss, but after running a few minutes, it loses power, no pedal, and will eventually die. At that point, the upper fuel bowl will be empty.

Anyway, I'm not even sure how to search for a thread discussing that topic - how to diagnose which injector, whether there's more than one bad injector, etc.

Hate to ask anyone to write up that process, but if you can point me to a link for a thread or YouTube that can help me figure out which injector(s) to replace, I would be very appreciative.

 

I’ve tried to search for old threads seems like it only went back to2018 maybe because its phone version I tried on vs full site lots of broken links

Assuming your injectors still installed in vehicle you can do injector bubble testing

or vac test if they removed

 

I've watched a tech do an injector test that allowed me to see the compression gas effect and fail-over from the bad injector to subsequent injectors. I don't think that test is in Forscan though. Because the subsequent injectors fail fairly quickly, it's hard to pull wires or measure exhaust manifold cylinder temps to identify the bad one. I guess the answer is to not be such a cheap a$$ and just replace all on that side.

 

I'd pull all of them and so you don't have to do this twice. Turn in the cores and get a new set from a guy here in town. He only sells new and well remanufactured injectors and is way cheaper than the dealership.

 

Isolate the problem to one bank or the other (or possibly both banks) by doing a balloon test, then replace all the injectors on the affected bank(s).

 

Buy once, cry once....

 

I guess that depends on who's injectors you buy. That was my mindset when I replaced all 8 with Holder's premiums, but it was not to be.

 

If it's on the driver's side, I don't mind so much going back in later to replace others. The passenger side is a PITA though. I also want to save them because IIRC none of these injectors have that many miles - maybe 50-100k at the most. Pretty sure I've replaced them all before.

With the symptom of blowing gas back into the fuel rail, does that mean the injector's bottom o-ring and/or crush washer failed? Or something else that I could see upon inspection? If I pull all of them and there's one with an obvious failure while the others look ok, I'd try to replace it and use the others again.

What does it mean that it does blow smoke? Misfires and bucks as it starts losing power, but never really smokes.

Of course, makes me wonder why the injectors failed. Would pulling a heavy-ish trailer with the turbo not working cause an injector(s) to fail? I was only driving very short trips, once every month or two. I never strained the engine except this last trip - my trailer got stuck and I revved to maybe 2500rpm getting it out) Otherwise, flat roads, 8000lb trailers, 10m round trip max. Drove slowly and it seemed to go just fine every time. I used it, until it didn't. The fuel pump wasn't old either, maybe 30-50k miles..

Just talked to my friend who has my OBDII connector - he still hadn't mailed it. Said he was going to today. Aaaarrrrgh. He's almost as forgetful as me.

 

It’s the inject plunger inside it tgat fails

if the copper washers is burned up it’s only because the plunger let unregulated fuel into cylinder and burned copper washers is up maybe under torq or bent hold down could play into it

low fuel pressure kills inject

subpar reman inject could be it too lots of folks report this

 

They generally fail internally and progressively fill the fuel rail with air. The air then goes to the rest of the injectors on that side, potentially causing internal damage to those. That's why it's recommended to replace all the injectors on the affected side. If you really only want to replace one, you can isolate it by removing one glow plug at a time until the bubbles stop bubbling or the balloon stops inflating.

 

OK, great info, guys. Let me try to work on it this week.

 

LOL - the good ole days!! Bonehead working on his trucks, one disaster after another. Dang, a few years ago, this was fun. Not so much now, lol.

So, I go to my truck to do a bubble test to confirm my suspicion that I have a bad injector. The bowl fills right up - again confirming that my pump is working. Hit the starter wire and it barely cranks, but I did see a lonely bubble in the bowl, one slowly after another in the few seconds I let it crank. I hook up my battery charger and come back a few hours later. Charger still wasn't signallying green, but I figured it'd have enough juice for a quick bubble test. Except now it does nothing, no slow crank, nothing except a loud clunk from the starter each time I touch the wire. It's pulling amps because the starter wire tries to stick to the battery terminal post if I leave it too long, but nothing from the starter except the loud clunk.

So, I let the battery charge overnight, and when I come back today, it's red - bad battery. Take the battery to the auto parts, and it tests Bad on their machine. Take it to Walmart where I bought it and it tests Good on theirs. They give it back to me fully charged..

Back to the truck, install the battery, and it still just clunks.

OK, now the back story - it's been giving me starter problems for a while because both of the positive battery terminals on the harness are worn out - the nuts don't tighten down well on the bolts that tighten the clamps to both positive terminals. (How do we replace those positive clamps on these harnesses?) The one on the driver's side has another issue with the nut that holds the accessory cable to that terminal clamp, so, the harness doesn't clamp well to the battery or connect well to that second wire, wherever it goes (ignition?) It has done this same clunking thing before and wiggling all those clamps got it to finally start.

So, that's probably my problem again, and I know I should be crawling around with a voltmeter to confirm that, but I thought someone here would know - if that second wire on the driver's battery is not connected well, will the starter only make a clunking sound when using the engine compartment wire? Or, is that starter wire a direct connection that should make the starter crank, as long as the battery is good and regardless of that other wire?

i

 

It occurs to me that it could be/probably is/is highly likely clunking because it hydrolocked, Can the same type of injector failure cause both the combustion gas to back up the fuel rails and let fuel fill the cylinder?

 

it’s like groundhog days with these fix it do it over


once good injector rebuilders now put out junk

I don’t mind working on vehicles occasionally but not repeatedly going in especially over parts snafu and these things are plagued with tgat kinda stuff on all systems engine related there junk guessing there probably alot of driveway trophy’s with 150k or less folks sick of throwing money at and not wanting to learn about it to the level that’s required to own such a critter and not get there bank account cleaned out in process

 

Yes, because the injector is hung open.