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You will need to cut back into the harness on both side from the looks of it.
I wonder what wire color and it powered to not be on a fuse?
What year / motor truck you have? Also any options like dual tanks w/ or w/o pumps.
Dave ----
Last edited by FuzzFace2; Nov 28, 2025 at 11:22 AM.
Trying to help, I'm having a hard time finding C306 ...? I do see the OP is talking under the hood near the brake booster.
I would say C305A is under the dash at the column, hard to tell where C305 is as the caption is under dash?
Wound if there is a break down of that plugs wiring / pin out?
Dave ----
I would say C305A is under the dash at the column, hard to tell where C305 is as the caption is under dash?
Wound if there is a break down of that plugs wiring / pin out?
Dave ----
Hopefully Dave F will come back soon and clue us in. Hopefully, the OP has asked the local auto parts stores if they have a replacement. I would also assume, any pigtail with enough wires could be used to replace both ends/side.
Or, maybe just rewire that one wire around the C306 as Dave called out. Male/female blade wire splice could be used for that....
Last edited by Max Capacity; Nov 28, 2025 at 11:35 AM.
Hopefully, the OP has asked the local auto parts stores if they have a replacement. I would also assume, any pigtail with enough wires could be used to replace both ends/side.
Or, maybe just rewire that one wire around the C306 as Dave called out. Male/female blade wire splice could be used for that....
Once the root cause is corrected, I see a couple of fairly repair easy options if the exact connector is not available.
1) Is the existing connector body damaged? If not, the inserts are probably something universal. You could probably find replacement inserts and keep the existing connector body. If you can't find replacement inserts by themselves, look for a connector kit that has the same inserts and use them. Discard the new connector body.
2) Bypass the connector completely. Not sure of this exact application, but most inline connectors were for ease of assembly on the factory floor. This connector may have allowed easy mating of a pre-wired cab to a pre-wired frame, or something like that. Unless you plan to ever separate the two in the future (not likely), you could just splice in new wire and eliminate the connector.
I see, looking down that link, that Auto Zone may carry the terminals... might want to call your local auto parts store. Edit, I see I already suggested that in post #7.
Last edited by Max Capacity; Nov 28, 2025 at 02:58 PM.
That yellow light would be known as a parking or running light and come on when you turn on the parking or head lights.
It is law that a car or truck have lights at the outer most part of the body so people know where the car / truck ends. When heading to someone and there is only 1 light, head light burned out people would not know to go left or right of the light.
Like Onyx above I would like to know what wire it was that heated / smoked as I cant think of any that are not on a fuse going through that rounded plug?
Dave ----
This is the one getting hot and burning i think its for sure grounding some where in that bracket there cause I move it a little it dosent burn no more..
You will need to cut back into the harness on both side from the looks of it.
I wonder what wire color and it powered to not be on a fuse?
What year / motor truck you have? Also any options like dual tanks w/ or w/o pumps.
Dave ----
I posted over at the bullnose forum on mine, and once I dug in I found the wire was purple with a white tracer. Turns out its for the brake warning light circit. Seems like a strange one to short out, but I guess thats why everything else is still working. Under dash wires seem fine, and I havent pulled the connection off the brake valve yet to dig in.
This is the one getting hot and burning i think its for sure grounding some where in that bracket there cause I move it a little it dosent burn no more..
If that wire melted to another wire then yes when moving it may "unshort".
That black thing just holds wires from dropping down and can be opened up and the harness pulled out to check / fix as needed.
You will need to cut open the harness and check the wire till you dont find any metled.
Originally Posted by s1120
I posted over at the bullnose forum on mine, and once I dug in I found the wire was purple with a white tracer. Turns out its for the brake warning light circit. Seems like a strange one to short out, but I guess thats why everything else is still working. Under dash wires seem fine, and I haven't pulled the connection off the brake valve yet to dig in.
If that is the brake warning wire to the valve under the master I thought it just grounds to turn on the light and was not "hot" like other wires could be.
Either way still sucks that it happened to both of you guys
Dave ----
It's a sign to me that the fuses for that circuit are too large. Or the fusible links have been cut out. Besides the large starter cables, everything else is protected by fusible links and fuses to prevent this from happening. Usually when there is a problem like this, and the fuse keeps blowing and blowing, someone will put a larger fuse in and then this happens.
If that wire melted to another wire then yes when moving it may "unshort".
That black thing just holds wires from dropping down and can be opened up and the harness pulled out to check / fix as needed.
You will need to cut open the harness and check the wire till you dont find any metled.
If that is the brake warning wire to the valve under the master I thought it just grounds to turn on the light and was not "hot" like other wires could be.
Either way still sucks that it happened to both of you guys
Dave ----
Hopefully i can find and fix the areas needed and not have to replace the whole harness
It's a sign to me that the fuses for that circuit are too large. Or the fusible links have been cut out. Besides the large starter cables, everything else is protected by fusible links and fuses to prevent this from happening. Usually when there is a problem like this, and the fuse keeps blowing and blowing, someone will put a larger fuse in and then this happens.
ill take a look next chance i get im hoping I won't have to replace the whole harness
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Hopefully, the OP has asked the local auto parts stores if they have a replacement. I would also assume, any pigtail with enough wires could be used to replace both ends/side.
