The driver’s door on my truck has never been lined up right. Last winter I didn’t drive the truck as I was rebuilding the rear end, but this year she’s on the road so I’d like to address this before it really gets cold. Here’s some pics of how it is when shut:

 

To me the door looks to have a twist to it but only at the latch side as the front looks to line up to the fender but ............ The fender could also be off.
When rehanging doors you start with the lines to the cab door opening so what you have gets fitted then you hang the fenders and line them up to the door.

How dose the front part of the door at the top hinge area meet to the cab is it tight / sealed?
If it has a gap also you will need to loosen the upper hinge and push it in so the door will seal and that will help at the back side a little.

if the door is tight to the cab at the front you will need to twist the door back into shape. Roll the glass down when doing this part.
Take a 2x4 and place it at the bottom rear corner of the door opening and cab so the door will not close.
Now push on the door to close it just above the door handle. Go easy and a little at a time and then try and close the door without the 2x4.
If it needs more do the same thing, little more and test fit.
If the top of the door hits the cab and cant get more twist in the door use a 4x4 and do the same thing till the door is twisted back into shape.

And any body that said this is not good never worked in a old school body shop as this is how it was done.
Oh you may want to look to see if any of the tack welds between the door skin and inner frame have come loose as the door may spring back like it was.
Dave ----

 

I should also say when doing this keep an eye on the gap between the front of the door and the fender that the door does not hit the fender when opening & closing and if it does you will need to adjust the fender.
Dave ----

 

Thanks Fuzz, all that makes sense. I have a suspicion this truck was crashed at some point because the passenger front fender is a replacement panel and I swear the frame horns are off from one another but I haven't tried to measure or prove it. I don't remember the door being so far off this past summer, perhaps it's showing more now because it's colder.

 

Could the cab be twisted? Maybe the right aft rubber donut has collapsed?

 

I wonder if he lost the nylon bushing off the door pin? Maybe he needs to replace it or pop a piece of pex tubing over it?

If the cab is damaged that should be obvious.

 

The hinges can also be adjusted to take care of minor misalignment. Loosen the bolts a little bit but not so much that the door slips. Just enough so you can adjust the hinges using a punch and a hammer by gently tapping. When the alignment is good retighten the hinges you loosened.

 

I got it alot better in just 10min with the 2x4 method. Still could tweak it more.

 

You can check the door for play at the hinges by lifting up on the back of the door when open. If it moves without lifting the cab you have play that can be eliminated by changing the hinge pins. But that looks like your rear pin is out of place. Remove the rear pin and close the door. If it seats properly the problem was with the rear pin. If not its in the front hinges.

 

It looks now like you got a lot of the twist out of it. What I would do now is put your full body weight on the door and push it in. If it will go in further, you can open the door and loosen the large pin on the door jamb and move it inward. Before you do that, check that it has a plastic bushing around the pin. That is usually gone and if yours is gone, you can cut a short piece of pex plastic pipe, slit it down the side and slide it over the pin to make a new plastic bushing. If that doesn't get it you can still adjust the pin in a little bit.

 

You done good grasshopper (am I showing my age )
Maybe just a little more as I am not seeing it in person but it also looks like the latch pin may need a little love too.
If the door looks even bottom to top but just sticks out when latched then the pin need to be loosen and moved in a little so the door shuts tight but not really need to be slammed.
What is done most of the time is the pin removed and the door adjusted to fit the opening then the pin installed and adjusted.
Dave ----

 

Good point. Is the door seal in good condition along the front edge? If so, use a strip of paper to check for any excessive gap between the door seal and the cab. Or maybe the bottom gap is too tight and the fender was improperly adjusted to compensate. Cut a 2" wide strip of paper and close the door on it. If the seal is being properly compressed, you will feel moderate resistance when pulling on the strip. Move this test strip to various positions to check the fit up and down the front edge.

 

I replaced the rubber in the doors of my truck and got a similar problem to the OP so this is really good information. I was thinking I would try this but was paranoid I'd break something important.

 

Just make sure you roll the window down before you go twisting the door.
With it up you are more likely to break it because the top could flex more than the glass but when down with all the framing and the glass tracks / brackets you are less likely to bust the glass.

Now replacing the rubber seal should not of pushed the top only out like the OP door was but I can see it being hard to latch with the new seals.
Just loosen the pin and move it out a little bit at a time till you feel it is good on closing and latching.
Dave ----

 

The door looks ok from the outside so I imagine it's not the same problem but at about head level on the back side of the door if I turn my head I can see daylight through the seal and the door. I think if I move the pin in slightly it might solve the problem even if I have to try a bit harder to close the door.