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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

alternator bracket change?

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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 08:05 PM
  #1  
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rnoswal
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alternator bracket change?

HI. I have a 1993 ford f150 flare side with fiberglass stepside fiberglass fenders and with the 5.0 engine. A work in progress. When I bought this one of the things I noticed was that the smog pump was deleted. The same alternator bracket is still used. I don't like how the tensioner fits and puts tension on the belt. Belt size is so critical but its still not right. With an upper idler pulley and tensioner below it, its not right. I have seen just a one year earlier alt bracket and on upper tensioner that seems the way to go.

Now it looks like I would need that year alternator also. When I take off the original bracket, can I awap out the earlier bracket and still have the belt aligned with all the other pulleys? This looks like a better bracket if the smog pump is no longer used. The 1993 tensioner is no longer in the correct position. Its not a matter of correct belt size as I imagine some or many have had no problems with but witht he belts I have tried, its either way too tight or the water pump pulley squeaks. {new water pump too}. So, I imagine there may already be a write up on this but I couldn't find it. So redirect me to it or let me know about using the older alternator/smog pump bracket. I am not going to replace the smogpump either, since the original was deleted on my truck,

Thanks in advance
Russ
 
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Old Nov 22, 2025 | 05:54 AM
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You do not want to use the ‘92 alternator since, from what I see on RockAuto, is a 2G and you currently have a 3G which is a much better alternator. Since you said that the tensioner is also in a different location on the ‘92 then I believe you would also need to change the driver’s side bracket. Why not keep what you have and use an idler pulley in the air pump location?

 
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Old Nov 22, 2025 | 01:10 PM
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Here's an alternative:





You can loose the upper idler, whack off the back of the airpump bracket

My upper idler got chopped too
 

Last edited by Scndsin; Nov 22, 2025 at 01:11 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2025 | 08:17 PM
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I have that setup basically, But I do not have it routed that way. The smog pump was removed before I bought this truck. So I have what you show, but in my case the upper idler pulley was used which meant a longer belt. I will try to rout it that way. My problem is that the tensioner is really on the wrong way without the smog pump. Not a full throw like a complete belt system. Where the upper pulley is on the engine you display is where the tensioner should be with a smog pump deleted. But I will try it the way you have it routed along with the belt size you show. Will let you know how it goes.

These belts are too expensive as you already know lol

Thanks
Russ
 
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Old Nov 22, 2025 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rnoswal
The smog pump was removed before I bought this truck….Where the upper pulley is on the engine you display is where the tensioner should be with a smog pump deleted. But I will try it the way you have it routed along with the belt size you show. Will let you know how it goes.
Yes. You already stated that a PO deleted the air pump. Why do you think the tensioner should be relocated if the air pump is removed? There are several people using the newer serpentine belt system that you have without the pump. As I mentioned you could add an idler pulley and use a regular belt and routing. That is what I have on my truck.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 11:31 AM
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I now see what you are talking about. I am going to order that pulley that takes the place of the smog pump. I never thought to see if there was such a thing. Thanks alot.

Russ
 
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