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The pickup is not a problem and I do change it hot as I run 1 qt of ATF at idle as I get the tools ready for the change.
The problem with the Dodge is the filter is at a 45* and being the truck is a 4x4 with IFS it is tight.
When the filter is loosen the oil runs down the side of the block and pan and the worst your arm to the pit and back side.
Had to soak my jump suite and shirt in degreaser 3 times before I could put in the wash and you can still see the oil stain.
NEVER AGAIN on that Dodge!
Dave ----
FWIW, I use the three changes every 10,000 miles. Technically it's every 9,999, as I use the Masonic method of every 3,333 miles.
That way every time you see 3333 or 6666 or 9999 on the last 4 whole mile odometer cylinders your oil change is due. That's my guideline but I do record the actual mileage in the log book at the hot drop oil change day. That's right drop your oil hot! I found that the Harbor Freight heavy duty disposable gloves work well for that operation. A little skill is needed holding the drain plug up in the hole till unthreaded and then a smooth move to the side makes for a pretty clean getaway.
Oh dear, haven't you guys installed Fumoto oil drain valves. Been using them on the cars for over 15 years.
The pickup is not a problem and I do change it hot as I run 1 qt of ATF at idle as I get the tools ready for the change.
The problem with the Dodge is the filter is at a 45* and being the truck is a 4x4 with IFS it is tight.
When the filter is loosen the oil runs down the side of the block and pan and the worst your arm to the pit and back side.
Had to soak my jump suite and shirt in degreaser 3 times before I could put in the wash and you can still see the oil stain.
NEVER AGAIN on that Dodge!
Dave ----
I use a very sharp tapered steel rod to puncture the low point of my angled filter. Small tap with a hammer but not past the tapered part so you can hold the rod in the hole while you position your catcher. Then pull the rod out and drain first through the bottom low point hole.
I use a very sharp tapered steel rod to puncture the low point of my angled filter. Small tap with a hammer but not past the tapered part so you can hold the rod in the hole while you position your catcher. Then pull the rod out and drain first through the bottom low point hole.
The Grrrreat Karl mentioned using some type of homemade funnel type thingy, I use cardboard under the filter to direct oil into the drain pan. He's so wonderful...
The Grrrreat Karl mentioned using some type of homemade funnel type thingy, I use cardboard under the filter to direct oil into the drain pan. He's so wonderful...
I use a very sharp tapered steel rod to puncture the low point of my angled filter. Small tap with a hammer but not past the tapered part so you can hold the rod in the hole while you position your catcher. Then pull the rod out and drain first through the bottom low point hole.
My son said the same thing after the fact
Originally Posted by Max Capacity
The Grrrreat Karl mentioned using some type of homemade funnel type thingy, I use cardboard under the filter to direct oil into the drain pan. He's so wonderful...
It is tight up in there and after my first and last change on this truck it will be farmed out.
Besides I got to get more tools out to do the change for this one than the pickup an then I got to get it into jugs to take to dump with the filters.
I am getting to that age I will pay someone to deal with all that.
The pickup also needs to be greased and I dont know if any shops still do that under the "oil & lube"?
Dave ----
I used one of those spiffy lube joints once. They're more than happy to strip your oil drain plug and lube your knuckles till the seals burst. Uh huh... first and last time I do that. Old enough to know better.
The Grrrreat Karl mentioned using some type of homemade funnel type thingy, I use cardboard under the filter to direct oil into the drain pan. He's so wonderful...
You may kiss the ring...
Here's my homemade funnel and other details, including a Fumoto drain valve. Works like a charm:
But I always drop the plug into the oil receptacle for some reason.
I installed a Fumoto drain valve on my truck. So simple to use and well protected behind my truck's front axle.
My car sits a lot lower and there is insufficient clearance for a drain valve. I got one of these tools for removing the drain plug. Break the plug loose with a regular wrench then unthread it with magnetic tool:
I modified mine slightly. Instead of using the universal magnetic bit, I used a standard 1/4" drive socket. I epoxied a magnet inside to hold the drain plug.
It is tight up in there and after my first and last change on this truck it will be farmed out.
Besides I got to get more tools out to do the change for this one than the pickup an then I got to get it into jugs to take to dump with the filters.
I am getting to that age I will pay someone to deal with all that.
The pickup also needs to be greased and I dont know if any shops still do that under the "oil & lube"?
Dave ----
lock n lube makes a tip for your grease gun that locks on the zero. Works great. I’ll post pics tomorrow.
I have one of the cheaper ones and it works pretty good were it will fit
I know it will not for the over drive shift linkage and 1 other place but cant remember where ATM.
I think L&L makes a 90* one I thought or I can change the grease fitting(s) to 90*
Dave ----
Making a spot for the new Wix filters I discovered another FL-1A.
The new Wix filters are "engineered and 'assembled' in the USA". Guam? Samoa? North Carolina?
Last edited by diggerrigger; Nov 21, 2025 at 10:10 AM.
Update on Baldwin filters, they have expanded their Nebraska plant but have also gone global with manufacturing in many countries including china....of course. Not sure if the filters you need will be made in the USA. I recently ordered some for my truck and they are due for delivery any day now. They might indicate where mine are built. I'll edit this post when I get them if there's more to report.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
