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Looking to upgrade my brakes this winter season. It was one of my biggest issues with the truck. Ultimate goal would be a full hydro boost system but that seems to be a bunch of work and money im not prepared to do yet.
Last season I put all new brake parts on and it wasnt as much of an upgrade as id hoped.
Want to do a rear disk brake upgrade. Looking for recommendations on full kits.
Had my eyes on this one which is a price range im comfortable with. Has anyone had any experience? https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...it,296887.html
I've heard you can convert to LTD/Tbird rear drums and shoes and they are a bit wider. Not sure about the particulars but I think that is all you need. Of course the fronts do 75% of the work and rear must be properly adjusted, i.e. not loose.
Last edited by beartracks; Nov 15, 2025 at 11:51 AM.
Are you having problems with brake fade after multiple stops or with braking after driving through water? My understanding is that drums have as much or better braking than disks, but disks are easier to work on, cool down faster and dry off faster.
Are you having problems with brake fade after multiple stops or with braking after driving through water? My understanding is that drums have as much or better braking than disks, but disks are easier to work on, cool down faster and dry off faster.
not really that I’ve noticed. My concern is the pedal is pretty mushy. I do have brand new stainless lines and they are pressure bled.
i also feel like I don’t stop quick enough and had assumed discs would be a good upgrade.
maybe what I should be looking at it bigger calipers from the thunderbird on the front
X3 sounds like a brake bleed is in order and is the 1st trouble shooting step. Start at the passenger side rear, then dvr rear, then passenger front and dvr front. Alwasy start futherest from the MC. Once that is done and all is 100% adjusted, still mushy pedal.....
Unless you are racing the truck I think that money would be better spent elsewhere. There is nothing wrong with rear drum brakes other than the weight. As mentioned, they do very little work compared to the fronts.
Maybe you happen to have one of the light duty rear ends with small brakes on your truck? Maybe they’re just not up to the task, but should certainly be able to lock up the rear tires when the bed is empty.
Do you carry weight in your truck normally?
What was mentioned before, about disc brakes not necessarily being more powerful, is absolutely true. But if your existing brakes are undersized, as some FORD trucks were, maybe you’re suffering that malady.
However, whenever I happen to be able to convert to rear discs, I still do!
For the reasons you mentioned, easier maintenance above all.
As long as they are sized properly and can still deliver the same stopping power as a good set of drums.
X3 sounds like a brake bleed is in order and is the 1st trouble shooting step. Start at the passenger side rear, then dvr rear, then passenger front and dvr front. Alwasy start futherest from the MC. Once that is done and all is 100% adjusted, still mushy pedal.....
this is how I bled the new system at the beginning of the season. I don’t know if mushy is the best way to but them but they pretty much drop to the floor before it ever activates. I may skip to the hydro boost upgrade. This will put more power into my pedal and make me feel better.
Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp;[url=tel:21700884
21700884[/url]]Maybe you happen to have one of the light duty rear ends with small brakes on your truck? Maybe they’re just not up to the task, but should certainly be able to lock up the rear tires when the bed is empty.
Do you carry weight in your truck normally?
What was mentioned before, about disc brakes not necessarily being more powerful, is absolutely true. But if your existing brakes are undersized, as some FORD trucks were, maybe you’re suffering that malady.
However, whenever I happen to be able to convert to rear discs, I still do!
For the reasons you mentioned, easier maintenance above all.
As long as they are sized properly and can still deliver the same stopping power as a good set of drums.
without weight in the bed I definitely can lock up the tires. I think I’m just used to a much sturdier feeling pedal than what I’ve got.
going to look at a hydro boost upgrade instead as they aren’t much different in cost
Recently went with Battle Born’s Hydroboost kit and couldn’t be happier. The kit was very complete and instructions were clear. The difference in stopping power was AMAZING. I’ll be ordering another for my other Highboy.
21702498[/url]]Recently went with Battle Born’s Hydroboost kit and couldn’t be happier. The kit was very complete and instructions were clear. The difference in stopping power was AMAZING. I’ll be ordering another for my other Highboy.
FWIW,
Mike
happy to hear this, I was going to send him an email to confirm all the details and place the order.
I have the upgraded power steering box from wild horses. Any chance you’ve done the same upgrade or are you still using the original box?
While we were discussing the virtues and pitfalls of installing rear disc brakes on a classic car, an old hot-rodder once told me that if you can lock up the car's stock brakes by applying reasonable pedal pressure, they're fine for a street-driven car. Wide tires might provide some additional braking due to increased road contact.
Yeah, there is some truth to that. Reminds me that I need to come up with the scratch to convert our 76 to power brakes. You can see why certain following distances were recommended back in the day. I can put all of the force I have with both feet into that pedal and the wheels don’t even think about locking. It’s like stopping an ocean liner.
happy to hear this, I was going to send him an email to confirm all the details and place the order.
I have the upgraded power steering box from wild horses. Any chance you’ve done the same upgrade or are you still using the original box?
I did do a power steering conversion at the same time but I used an integral box from a 78-79 F250 4wd. I had done that to my first Highboy 30 years ago and it worked out great. I also did the Wild Horses Saginaw conversion and I used the Saginaw box with 2 return lines so I didn’t have to put a tee in the return line I had one for the steering box and one for the hydroboost.
Having real power steering and real brakes totally changed the trucks personality.
Good luck with your project, and keep us posted
on your progress. 😊
21702806[/url]]While we were discussing the virtues and pitfalls of installing rear disc brakes on a classic car, an old hot-rodder once told me that if you can lock up the car's stock brakes by applying reasonable pedal pressure, they're fine for a street-driven car. Wide tires might provide some additional braking due to increased road contact.
I’ve got 12.5 wide tires so I’m sure you’re right that’s it’s helpful. What isn’t helpful is they are 35x12.5 lol. Lots of stopping power required
Originally Posted by Nivrat;[url=tel:21703511
21703511[/url]]I did do a power steering conversion at the same time but I used an integral box from a 78-79 F250 4wd. I had done that to my first Highboy 30 years ago and it worked out great. I also did the Wild Horses Saginaw conversion and I used the Saginaw box with 2 return lines so I didn’t have to put a tee in the return line I had one for the steering box and one for the hydroboost.
Having real power steering and real brakes totally changed the trucks personality.
Good luck with your project, and keep us posted
on your progress. 😊
FWIW,
Mike
When I bought my pump I didn’t know much about hydro boost. Should have bought the double return kit but you live and you learn haha
if I’m not mistaken it’s not pressurized so I could drill a new hole into it and add a second return port. Would probably look nicer
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