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Cold Blooded Van 1998 E150

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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 12:20 PM
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Cold Blooded Van 1998 E150

Over 10 years ago I had a black panel E150 (Easy Bake) that was rather cold blooded as well. I don't mean the motor was hard starting, but the heater/defroster output was minimal. That is, until I hit up a local sheet metal shop and they bent up a piece of aluminum with an L shape that I could drop in front of the radiator to increase the temperature slightly to get the defrosters working. This always worked well and easily removable come springtime. I got the idea when my driving job took me over Santiam pass in the wintertime when the windshield would ice up.

Well, now my 1998 E150 window van has a very similar issue. I'm considering having the sheet metal shop bend me up another piece of aluminum but before I do, is there any sensor or possibility of compromising some circuit board by doing this in a later van?

Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid for your responses.
Gus
 
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Old Nov 10, 2025 | 05:51 AM
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Are sure your thermostat is not stuck open?
can you read the ECT PID?
Your upper radiator hose and the coolant should be at 195 degrees when the engine is at operating temperature
You do need an air deflector shield in AK
I survive UT winters just fine with a working thermostat
Good luck
 
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Old Nov 10, 2025 | 05:54 AM
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What condition is the heater core in, is it original to the van? How many miles and what is he water temperature from the intake manifold lines? Even on the coldest days here in Ohio I achieve up to 100* leaving air temperature from the heater vents, even have an auxillary heater that does much the same.

This souonds more like a maintenance issue more than anything else. There should be no need for what you're describing INHO.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2025 | 01:17 PM
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Hi JWA ltns. Thanks fellas for chiming in. I guess I should've been a bit more clear in the title of this thread the motor shows no signs of being cold blooded, it's just that during last winters cold spell my windshield iced up to the point where I missed the turnoff for our bus shop. I had much the same thing on my '81 Ford E150 where the motor ran out fine despite being a bit on the cold (heater) side. The same goes on our buses, the heat rarely come up especially during an ice storm. Note: we don't get much snow here in the Willamette valley but supercooled rain is the wonderful feature Mother Nature seems to have in store for us. I've also noticed that some POV's I've driven since the 70's were lacking in cabin heat. My primary concern in this case is I don't want to damage any sensor or other component by introducing this shield. The heater core is only two years old as I had a leak that I had to attend to, now repaired. A side benefit I noticed on my '81 the shield also kept the fins of my radiator clear. Please forgive me if this seems to be stomping on opines, I'm just providing some background.
 

Last edited by Turbogus 1; Nov 10, 2025 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2025 | 08:56 PM
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So, any ideas of components that may be compromised if I go through with this?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 11:19 AM
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Well, coming up on my 4 days off, my Jeep CJ repairs are all done and my next focus will be to get my Hex Beam back up in the backyard then I'll focus on my van again. Perhaps by then someone can get back to me.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2025 | 03:34 PM
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I may have not been clear, I'm only intending to cover 1/3 of the Radiator core as I did with my '81 panel van. It looks like 18 gauge 3 X 12 X 26" will do me proud, if I need to trim it no sweat. I broke out my digital thermometer today and the upper Radiator hose reads 128.5 F
 

Last edited by Turbogus 1; Dec 5, 2025 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2025 | 11:39 AM
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Come to think of it. My '81 E 150 panel van ran about the same temperature, that is until I used that piece of aluminum as a shield over 1/3 of the Radiator. Then the defrosters worked fine and to my Japanese wife's delight cabin heat.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2025 | 02:30 PM
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What does it read when you aim it at the t-stat housing?

At any place you can get a good read on the block?

IMHO you need to break out the wrenches and verify if you have a functioning t-stat that is the proper temp recommended for your truck. It could be that,as mentioned, it's stuck open. Or maybe a PO has either removed the t-stat or put in a too cold one. They do sell 160*F t-stats.
 

Last edited by econo93; Dec 1, 2025 at 08:24 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2025 | 06:22 PM
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Thanks for chiming in fellas, I really appreciate it. This is the 3rd Ford van I've had over the years and I'm becoming convinced that I've been lucky to receive a Radiator meant for a higher output motor. In each case exhaustive measures taken and I've found each time that the cooling system was too efficient for the motor output. This on my '66, my '81 and now apparently my '98. I not entirely disappointed, I'd rather have a cool running motor than a hot one.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2025 | 08:43 PM
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Well there are good reasons the engineers design them to run at a specific temp. At the recommended operating temp they are more efficient and you get better MPG. Also the higher temp burns off moisture in the oil which helps to minimize sludge buildup.

 
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 03:05 PM
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Yep, I'm hip about that econo93. I have an Innova 3040c Scanner but as far as engine controls go it all checks out okay.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2025 | 04:29 PM
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From the help of one person they described how to get into Live Data mode and I discovered that the startup motor temp is 46* and after running 25+ miles 168*
 
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Old Dec 3, 2025 | 08:47 PM
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So apparently with 168* you don't get good output from the heater.

You don't state what engine you have but a 5.4 should have a 195* thermostat.

At 195* you probably would get adequate heat...



 
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 10:11 AM
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After some concerted driving yesterday in stop and go traffic I noted the temperature did increase but peaked at 190.4* perhaps I'm at the threshold of getting coolant to the heater from the thermostat but not quite.
 
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