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The heater core is only two years old as I had a leak that I had to attend to, now repaired.
Years ago I noted the OEM heater core in my '97 was much better quality than a aftermarket replacement I had purchased. The OEM had many more closely spaced fins making it more efficient at extracting heat. If your repair involved a non-OEM replacement heater core, this could be part of the problem.
Yep, ecomo93, it Was a defective heater flapper valve, close inspection noted that the electrical wire was splayed out (by design) with only three groups of paired wire strands contacting a cylinder. These strands had bent breaking contact. It was so under engineered, that I ran an accessory choke cable to the flapper and with a hook and eye arrangement, control from a handle in the dash panel.
Last edited by Turbogus 1; Dec 9, 2025 at 06:03 PM.
put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator then cut a 8x8 square at a 45 degree, blocking most of the radiator, it should bring the temps up increasing heat, leave your defrost on full blast. crack a window but leave heat alone on full.
Thanks Wizzy, early on, in my '66 van I tried cardboard but rainwater drafted in and broke up the cardboard and clogged some of the Radiator cooling fins. This is why I have been going with aluminum.
Happy Independence Day (Finland~Suomi)
Last edited by Turbogus 1; Dec 6, 2025 at 02:22 PM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
