Originally Posted by DavenTn

I highly recommend upgrading the flex lines from rubber to stainless re-enforced lines. Both my rear-rubber OEM lines failed and acted like a check valve. In addition ... the hard/static rear differential cross-over line rusted through at the retaining clamp on top of the pumpkin. .Worth looking at for signs of rust.

Originally Posted by ncheavymetal

No kidding. Those look almost exactly like the power stop calipers I have. Including the stamped symbols. Only very slight differences.

Those should be great with some decent rotors and pads and a good flush and bleed.

Not sure how much you paid and not asking but the OEM fords are $115 from Lakeland Ford. The PsZ are $142 from Summit.

I'd almost bet they came from the same factory.

And that's a s h i t ton less than the ssbc stuff.

Originally Posted by ncheavymetal

If you are looking for a direct fit, SSBC is going to be your best bet.

The PowerStop Z series is also a direct fit. They are definitely better than stock or Ford HD but one step down from SSBC with two pistons per caliper. But also less expensive. They do work well though.

This is going to be one of those decisions you're just going to have to make based on your personal needs and finances. Two grand for F/R calipers or four grand F/R with rotors and accessories.

I'm sure you already know, but do not buy drilled rotors for towing. Only slotted. Slots help with off- gassing but aren't as prone to cracking like drilled.

Mine are old but I have PSZ F/R but I only purchased the calipers. I do not like their pads or rotors. I also don't tow as much as you so I'd suggest stepping it up to SSBC for your needs. I'm using ford HD rotors and SD pads. They work great for my needs. Light towing, off-roading and they perform well in the mountains where I tend to push my truck more than I probably should.

I think Wilwood makes an adapter for the super duty series that can be used on the excursion but now you are really spending some money. And a "custom" installation.



I have friends with various SSBC kits and they are happy with the installation, reliability and performance but they payed a hefty price for those features. Like you they tow big stuff. Toy haulers, car haulers, trail rigs, etc.

Good luck. Let us know what you end up with.

Originally Posted by 01__Excursion

Talking to SSBC today was a bit disappointing. I called and asked if they had slotted only rotors for my 01 Ex, instead of just saying no he pretty quickly asked why I want rotors this way. After stating that I have no interest in the dimpled and was only interested in slotted, he did admit that the dimpled is just there for show, no other functional purpose and avail because that's whet people want. We both agreed about the benefit of the slotted, and the disadvantage of fully drilled, but he steered away from the added pad wear from slotted rotors when I brought it up, albeit maybe minuscule it was a slight con over pro none the less. Beyond that he really tried to sell me on the 300 piston caliper upgrade and said that my OE caliper pistons are of plastic construction, of which I corrected him to say that the OE ones I purchased are steel pistons. Anyway I just felt that it was all about his sales pitch to me and what he thought should be upgraded on my rig. I really see the "for show" dimpling is not something I want and at minimum takes away some of the rotor friction surface. The pads are coming from PFC brakes, and the rotors are still out for debate.

Originally Posted by John in OkieLand

Hmmm,

I bought slotted and drilled rotors, seem to work just fine,

no issues to date after 2 years of use, and 10k plus miles

Detroit rotors and pads

Originally Posted by ncheavymetal

This is really good info from the actual source. I'm glad you had that conversation with them. At least they were somewhat truthful about the rotors. I hate when you call for advice and all they want to do is upsell you stuff and tell you how poorly your oem stuff is. As far as the piston construction, I'll give them the benefit of the doubt based on they probably weren't even listening to your needs/truck type and only focused on a sale.




No disrespect but 10k over two years is barely working your rotors. I have seen that you do indeed post about towing. But science proves otherwise about drilled rotors. I hope you continue to get good service from yours. No way I'm trusting drilled rotors on my rig for the types of driving and conditions I regularly put them through.

Originally Posted by DoOver

I just replaced a rear metal piston caliper I bought as 'new' from Rock.One of the metal pistons broke and hung up the pad, wearing it out. I installed these new rear calipers, pads and non-slotted rotors less than 5k ago.
After reading about the importance of replacing the 25 year old flexible brake hoses, I replaced them, also.

I am now have trouble breeding the brakes. My wife is pumping the brakes with the engine off (pump, pump, hold) and I am starting on the passenger side rear, then drivers side rear, then passenger side front, doing the drivers side front last.
But the petal still goes to the floor.
What am I doing wrong??


Thanks.

Originally Posted by 01__Excursion

You have a V-10, do you have a Hydroboost or a vacuum booster for the brakes? Either of those or the master cylinder could be leaking by.

Originally Posted by DoOver

I just replaced a rear metal piston caliper I bought as 'new' from Rock.One of the metal pistons broke and hung up the pad, wearing it out. I installed these new rear calipers, pads and non-slotted rotors less than 5k ago.
After reading about the importance of replacing the 25 year old flexible brake hoses, I replaced them, also.

I am now have trouble breeding the brakes. My wife is pumping the brakes with the engine off (pump, pump, hold) and I am starting on the passenger side rear, then drivers side rear, then passenger side front, doing the drivers side front last.
But the petal still goes to the floor.
What am I doing wrong??


Thanks.