Hey guys, I've got an 84 f350 xlt with the 460 engine and a manual 4 speed transmission. To start, about 2 weeks ago I was having issues with a parasitic drain on the battery causing me to have to remove the battery after every trip and trickle charge it. I had a mechanic friend check the alternator and it was fine. So, we replaced the voltage regulator and restored charge to the battery. Drove it two more times in the same day and when stopping for gas I attempted to turn the vehicle back on and lost power to the entire vehicle inside and out.

Since then I've been wielding a parts cannon like a maniac. I've replaced the ignition, ignition switch, clutch safety switch, ignition control module, battery, another voltage regulator, starter solenoid, alternator, fuses, and starter. Still no crank from the engine. Changing those parts did restore power to the cab but nothing on the engine.

When attempting to crank the engine I will only get a loud clunk from the starter solenoid but no activation on the starter itself. I've tried jumping the solenoid by using a wrench to bridge the large terminals on the sides of the solenoid and still no movement from the starter, only a clunk from the solenoid. After that I made a jumper wire to go from the positive to the S terminal on the front of the solenoid and still only a clunk from the solenoid. I only get max 2 attempts with those techniques before I lose power to the cab again and have to disconnect the negative on the battery to get another attempt.

I've run a multimeter on every connection I can see and changed the 4 gauge wire leading from the solenoid to the starter and still no change. Does anyone have any advice because I am completely lost on what it could possibly be.

 

Thats a standard but doesnt it have some form of nuetral safety?

 

It does have a clutch safety switch which I have replaced as well as attempted to bypass. Still no crank from the starter.

 

Do you have a test light? Can you confirm power to the starter?

 

Can we assume that your battery cables look like these ? Or do your's have those cheap, clamp on ones ?

 

No more launching parts! Somebody is going to get hurt with all those parts raining down.

Here you go:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html

Based on the symptoms you’ve described, I suspect the short heavy cable between the battery’s (+) post and the starter relay. Don’t just rush out and replace the cable. Run the test at the link above for confirmation.

 

Karl you take all the fun out of trying to catch the falling parts

I would go as far to say if you do want to replace 4 parts make them the battery cables.
I am guessing they are from 1984 and by now need to be replaced.
Battery neg to motor> motor to frame. Run a 10ga wire from motor, back intake manifold bolt, to the firewall.
Battery pos. to starter relay> relay to starter.

When doing the neg cables make sure where they bolt up is nice and clean.
Dave ----

 

I think most of these trucks have a battery negative cable that connects to the frame and then engine block. Got mine from my local NAPA. I did have to open up the boltholes on the new cable.

 

There's your problem or one of your problems right there. The negative battery cable.

 

I eventually found out the issue was a combination of three things. I had a slightly loose battery connection on my terminal from removing it so much, the starter solenoid I bought was bad out of the box, and the main issue was the clutch safety switch I thought I had bought was actually a cruise control switch.

Gaining ignition on the vehicle required me clipping two black wires on the actual clutch safety switch and twisting them together to bypass the switch. After that I put the vehicle in neutral and put on the emergency brake. I then turned the key to the RUN position not the ON position.

With all that done I made a jumper wire approximately 6" long out of 4 gauge wire with the last 3/4" of both sides bare. Using that I then jumped the starter solenoid on the side of passenger fender well activating the starter and gaining ignition.

Now even though I have a running vehicle I have noticed some downsides from this process. The battery WILL drain slowly as this creates a parasitic draw on my battery trying to activate the starter due to the bad starter solenoid. I heard several clicks coming from my starter while I had the battery connected while it was sitting. To negate this I just have to unhook my battery once I reach my destination.

I hope this helps the next guy who sadly this happens too.

 

Ooh, thanks for the update. The old combination of several problems trick, I see..

Was this the positive or negative cable? Not exactly a scientific study, but I've noticed the short positive cable seems to be the most susceptible to corrosion damage.


Who'd have thunk new parts could be bad? What brand failed? And what finally worked? Please add details about both parts to this thread, to help out the next guy:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...i-mean-it.html





Check out this thread, showing the location of both switches:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-mystery.html

On my '84, it had both switches but no wiring connection for the clutch lockout switch. My best guess is my truck was manufactured somewhere around the changeover point when the lockout switch was being introduced. It got the switch (as part of the updated pedal assembly) but not the newer wiring harness.



I'm confused by this. If everything is good, you should not have a parasitic drain on the battery. Even if you bypassed the clutch lockout switch, no current should flow through the circuit except for when the key is in the Start position. Disconnecting the battery when parked is a good interim workaround, but something needs love.