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This has probably been discussed before, but I want to see if we have anything new about this…
Today I started my truck at 7:00am. Let it warm up for 10 minutes because it’s cold here in NJ. Started driving at 7:11-12am ish. At 7:16 my trucks engine lost all power. I had no steering or brakes which was kinda a no brainer since all of its engine ran, somehow managed to get the truck on a side road by a DD, where I was helped with pushing it into a safer spot.
what could cause this?
I fixed my accelerator pump, everything is tight, no leaks. Is this an ignition problem, and how can I recreate this to get it to happen again?
So if you've fixed your accelerator pump, no leaks then I'd be looking at ignition for sure. The fact that it ran fine stopped is a big clue. If you get it running again, let it run for a bit. If the time before stall is different, then my next bet would be a bad ground wire (or B+) were the giggling around of the truck is causing it to loose connectivity and thus the stall. With these intermittent problems I always look at the simple stuff first, then the more involved. Check coil, battery starter relay, chassis and engine grounds etc. Assuming you get it running a giggle test of wiring harness and connections is in order. Be sensible as some voltages are high etc so don't be all bare-handed etc around coil and plugs.
So if you've fixed your accelerator pump, no leaks then I'd be looking at ignition for sure. The fact that it ran fine stopped is a big clue. If you get it running again, let it run for a bit. If the time before stall is different, then my next bet would be a bad ground wire (or B+) were the giggling around of the truck is causing it to loose connectivity and thus the stall. With these intermittent problems I always look at the simple stuff first, then the more involved. Check coil, battery starter relay, chassis and engine grounds etc. Assuming you get it running a giggle test of wiring harness and connections is in order. Be sensible as some voltages are high etc so don't be all bare-handed etc around coil and plugs.
heres some more background. Before today's incident... after I changed the accelerator pump, it would start and drive normally. But it would start perfectly when cold, but after driving it, if i was to shut it off and go to start it, it wouldn't refuse to restart, engine would turn but no spark to fire. Unless it was shut off long enough for the engine to cool.
Now its home, and sitting in front of the house. Waiting for tomorrow, to maybe recreate this or Wednesday.
What’s the carb and do you have a spacer? How about a fuel filter with a return line? Do you know how hot the truck is running?
Your description is making me think you might have fuel boiling in the lines….or something completely different.
It looks to have a 1/4" spacer it’s a MotorCraft 2150. The fuel line going into the carb, has a check valve and a filter. And in the morning 40degrees air temp the truck is normally still running towards cold. It never hits the center until I'm at work in the parking lot. Or it's after work 60degrees air temp and I'm leaving then it sits perfectly in the center after a small 5-10 minute warming up.
But ever since adjusting my choke plate, it’s been able to be shut off and able to restart. Sorry to forget this information, my bad on that. It’s been a rough few weeks with the old girl, she seems to throw a new wrench at me every few days.
If you have original DS ignition, might take a jug of cold water and if it does it tomorrow, dowse the DuraSpark box to cool it and try a restart. When my OEM box first crapped out was 2 miles or so from start at work. Dousing it with my cold drink from work got me on home 14 miles with no more issue that day. It didn't do it everyday, but it did become more often, so I replaced it.
If you suspect the ignition, start testing. My guess is the pickup coil in the distributor. Use the guide posted below to test. I recommend testing the pickup coil cold, then heat it with a hair dryer, distributor cap removed. Many time they pass cold, fail hot. Also, look for worn or cracked insulation on the wires in the distributor & where they run to the harness.
Be aware that many pickup coils sold at the parts stores today are bad right out of the box. Take your meter with you to the parts store & test them before you even buy them.
Drove it today for the first time since Monday. Nothing happened. But i am gonna go to my local part store to grab an ignition module. Because theres no harm in replacing it. And if it happens again after replacing the module. I'll check my coil. But i have a strong suspicion its the module.
Well went to Advanced Auto. They gave me a Carquest CBG-1008. Got home excited to install it. No spark, but hell my starter was trying to get her going. Seems to be the wrong replacement. Put back in my old module, truck fired up instantly. Guess i need to find the correct module my self, since these auto stores are clueless.
does anyone know what box would work? Or if these boxes have a good reputation? I was told they are pretty good.
Find your local Motorcraft store and pick up a real Ford one.
Wish I had a motorcraft authorized store near me. No part store by me sell parts, all they sell is oil, from motorcraft. And every dealership I contact about parts they tell me the same line “here at ford we don’t hold onto stock over then 10 years, we sell it off to New Old Stock companies”.
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