2009 E-150 4.6
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Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 499
Likes: 306
From: White Bear Lake
The gaskets are definitely hooched.
I second that. The plastic has broken down in the coolant ports. It would probably seal for a while but it will eventually break off and you'll spring a leak again. The intake is a PU7Z-9424-B. They are not cheap and would have to verify with VIN as there is another less common option. If there is a Dorman one available online or through a parts store should be fine. I have used it without issue on a 5.4 in the past.
-Dan F
I second that. The plastic has broken down in the coolant ports. It would probably seal for a while but it will eventually break off and you'll spring a leak again. The intake is a PU7Z-9424-B. They are not cheap and would have to verify with VIN as there is another less common option. If there is a Dorman one available online or through a parts store should be fine. I have used it without issue on a 5.4 in the past.
-Dan F
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
Yes. I’ll plan to replace with the Dorman unit. I think it’s ~$375 from Autozone with a promo code right now.
I’m also going to replace the spark plugs while I’m in there. And, I’m going to order new coils and boots for the COPs so I can rehab those. I’ve seen some DIY methods for that. Similarly, DIY cleaning the injectors seems possible, so I’ll likely do that.
I’m also going to replace the spark plugs while I’m in there. And, I’m going to order new coils and boots for the COPs so I can rehab those. I’ve seen some DIY methods for that. Similarly, DIY cleaning the injectors seems possible, so I’ll likely do that.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 286
From: Eastern TN
I think that's the head, not the block.
Things to consider though I'm neither a metallurgist nor machinist - I think you can TIG weld aluminum to build up the pit then file it level and smooth. JB Weld might be good enough if the pits are small. Long term, change the coolant more frequently.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
Things to consider though I'm neither a metallurgist nor machinist - I think you can TIG weld aluminum to build up the pit then file it level and smooth. JB Weld might be good enough if the pits are small. Long term, change the coolant more frequently.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
Thank you. Yes, I mean the cylinder head.
I don’t see welding in my future here. I can prob do the JB weld route, and I do have a fresh extreme high temp JB on hand. I’ll probably go ahead and try it.
I don’t see welding in my future here. I can prob do the JB weld route, and I do have a fresh extreme high temp JB on hand. I’ll probably go ahead and try it.
Last edited by Killacks; Nov 1, 2025 at 03:56 PM.
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2025
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Likes: 1
JB welded the pits on the cylinder heads. As it was curing, I thought I’d tackle the spark plugs. Long story short, they all came out fine with one exception. Plug #? (Passenger side, second from the back). This one, I believe, is spinning but will not come out. Not sure what to do next.
The insulator on the spark plugs socket isn’t strong enough to pull it out. Neither is a magnet, or needle nose pliers grabbing the top of the plug. Any collective wisdom on this one?
The insulator on the spark plugs socket isn’t strong enough to pull it out. Neither is a magnet, or needle nose pliers grabbing the top of the plug. Any collective wisdom on this one?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 286
From: Eastern TN
Sounds like #3 cylinder. Put a towel over the plug hole and give the engine a quick crank to see if the plug coughs out on its own. Disable the fuel pump first! Next is Rube Goldberg thinking out loud:
- try blasts with an impact wrench on the plug then try pulling out the plug with a magnetic socket or some rubber hose. Maybe the impact will break it free of the bad threads.
- If the threads are hooched, have a nut welded to the top of a sacrificial 5/8” deep socket. Put JB Weld inside the deep socket and have it set on the plug. Use the nut to thread a slide hammer onto the nut and yank out the plug. Or yanking but not removing the plug might get the threads to a position that they'll bite and let you spin out the plug. You’ll have to fix the threads in the head :/ I thought bad plug threads were sorted long before MY 2009.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
- try blasts with an impact wrench on the plug then try pulling out the plug with a magnetic socket or some rubber hose. Maybe the impact will break it free of the bad threads.
- If the threads are hooched, have a nut welded to the top of a sacrificial 5/8” deep socket. Put JB Weld inside the deep socket and have it set on the plug. Use the nut to thread a slide hammer onto the nut and yank out the plug. Or yanking but not removing the plug might get the threads to a position that they'll bite and let you spin out the plug. You’ll have to fix the threads in the head :/ I thought bad plug threads were sorted long before MY 2009.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
Last edited by tabijan; Nov 3, 2025 at 01:32 PM.
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
Updated progress here…
Installed the new intake and buttoned it all up. The Dorman intake is a bit different in design, with one particular sore spot that I’ll explain later. Prior to that, I replaced the spark plugs, with the exception of the troublesome one. This one was actually rounded off, I think, and not spinning in place.
In an attempt to verify, I made a mark on the plug with a paint pen, and stuck a snake camera down there before and after trying to turn the plug with the wrench. Mark was in same location, so I jumped to the conclusion that it was stuck and not spinning in place. Not perfect but kicked that can down the road.
I also replaced coils and cleaned terminals in plugs. I cleaned the injectors externally only. O-rings looked okay.
Installed the new intake and buttoned it all up. The Dorman intake is a bit different in design, with one particular sore spot that I’ll explain later. Prior to that, I replaced the spark plugs, with the exception of the troublesome one. This one was actually rounded off, I think, and not spinning in place.
In an attempt to verify, I made a mark on the plug with a paint pen, and stuck a snake camera down there before and after trying to turn the plug with the wrench. Mark was in same location, so I jumped to the conclusion that it was stuck and not spinning in place. Not perfect but kicked that can down the road.
I also replaced coils and cleaned terminals in plugs. I cleaned the injectors externally only. O-rings looked okay.
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2025
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This is the passenger rear of the intake manifold. The unit came with this capped coolant port. After an extensive test drive, I noticed this leak. I admit that I had to twist the clamp to clear the top of the COP. I should’ve been more careful.
This doesn't look like a great way to put a part together, but too late to change it. It’s got to work under most circumstances, I assume, since Dorman is making them that way.
I’ve seen some clever solutions to fortify this cap/clamp situation. That’ll be my next step.
Also, I’m not sure if it is running a bit hotter than before. Only judging by the dash meter, and it looks up a tick. How can I get a more accurate temperature reading and what should it be, ideally?
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 286
From: Eastern TN
Use a scanner with live data capability to check ECT value when fully warmed. It should show the value of the thermostat rating within a couple of degrees. For reference, our 2007 5.4 runs at about 183*F. 180-190*F should be fine.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
I have a SCX scanner/programmer tool. Engine fully warm and idling is 190ish*. The last couple driving trips (30-40 mins.), I saw it at 200ish* give or take depending on driving. Outside temp is mild…60-70*
Is that a matter of concern?
Is that a matter of concern?
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 286
From: Eastern TN
I'd be concerned given what I see with our van. It takes significant load to break 200*F engine temps. A couple of days ago we pulled a 2-ton trailer with empty passenger van going about 50mph. ECT steady at 183*F, transmission temp between 120- and 130*F to indicate load. You might have a tired thermostat or a tired fan clutch if temps creep up at low speed.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 200k miles
Last edited by tabijan; Nov 19, 2025 at 06:11 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,470
Likes: 2,633
From: Near Salt Lake City
195-200 is fine
Your thermostat is liable to be a 195
And your thermometer may be off a few degrees
Either way 200 is great
A properly working system will blow 193 out the panel vents on high heat
Your thermostat is liable to be a 195
And your thermometer may be off a few degrees
Either way 200 is great
A properly working system will blow 193 out the panel vents on high heat