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Coil can get finicky at temperature - you have that covered. Condensers can also behave the same.
Also can't hurt to double triple check your ignition timing.
Some may suggest vapor lock and may recommend a quality carburetor spacer like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267373060646 (I've never seen the need personally)
Ensure your fuel tank cap is vented. To test this theory, when the vehicle won't start, remove the cap, and see if that makes a difference.
All the above suggestions plus, are you by any chance running Ethanol in your gas? Such as E-10 or E-15?
if so try non Ethanol fuel. As much here in farm country we love our Ethanol, with carburated vehicles it has been known to expand during heat soak. When it does that it will push it self past the carburetors needle and seat and flood the engine.
If you want to experiment around it would be interesting to see next time it does it to check to make sure you have good spark, then pull a plug to see if its wet.
Also, if your carburetor was recently rebuilt your float setting may be too high letting in a little too much fuel, which makes expansion more likely.
Just some thoughts anyway.
Are you still 6 volt? I fixed up my truck in 1999. At that time I had 00 gauge battery cables made. I started so fast with just a push of the button.
Around 2015 the truck would start easy when cold but started hard when the engine was hot . Someone mentioned battery cables. I said I had new ones made .. but then realized that was 15 years ago. I got new 00 gauge cables made and it started fast hot or cold. I cut an old cable. It looked good outside but was corroded inside.
1) before blaming the coil, get a spark tester and verify that you have no or weak spark. I got mine at harbor freight for $5
2) if you still have the issue after the new coil (I did) try the condenser. I went through 3 in one year. I installed a Pertronix 6v unit. It was problematic at first, they’re finicky about voltage and my generator wasn’t keeping the voltage high enough for the pertronix even though it was up to spec. I now have a 6v + ground powergen alternator and everything is happy.
3) check the power valve in the carb for leakage. Mine would drain the float bowl and make it hard to start warm, they’re finicky new non-leaking power valve makes it start even faster cold and warm.
I think the cheapest and easiest fix is to check the cables. If they are old they need replaced. If they are not thick 00 gauge they need replaced for a 7 bolt system. Even if this is not the cause they need replaced.
Are you still 6 volt? I fixed up my truck in 1999. At that time I had 00 gauge battery cables made. I started so fast with just a push of the button.
Around 2015 the truck would start easy when cold but started hard when the engine was hot . Someone mentioned battery cables. I said I had new ones made .. but then realized that was 15 years ago. I got new 00 gauge cables made and it started fast hot or cold. I cut an old cable. It looked good outside but was corroded inside.
I have had this problem too. Cables look fine on the outside, and work for a short period of time if you move them around looking for the issue. I kept thinking I had fixed the issue, maybe by cleaning battery connection or whatever. It was actually making a connection because I had moved the cables around enough for a connection. Corrosion was on the inside. Very frustrating.
I get my cables made at a local auto electric store, if you can find one near you. They are crimped on. You need three, positive to frame for ground, negative to starter solenoid, solenoid to starter.
Best to get prefabricated 2/0 or 00 cables. Many on the forum here find batterycablesusa.com to be very reasonable.
If you want a ground strap, SMP B14 is a reasonable accessable component.
53-55 6 volt trucks did not have a ground strap like this from positive terminal to frame. There is one like this from engine block to firewall however without the clamping type end of course.
53-55 6 volt trucks did not have a ground strap like this from positive terminal to frame. There is one like this from engine block to firewall however without the clamping type end of course.
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