Fuel Sending Unit
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 217
Likes: 12
That's about sums up my experience with the Tank, yes. I actually had to get my son to help with the hose because his arms were skinnier than mine and it helped to get a better grip to push the hose over the notches of the filler neck. He has bought a house and moved away now, so if I have to drop it again, I have been thinking about just cutting the filler neck housing out and fabricating a new plate to go over the top of the filler neck when it's pushed up all as one unit. OR, just sell the van LOL. Mechanically mine only need three things to make it 100% for the road ready. A new switch valve for the tanks, new valve cover gaskets and to repair or replace the AC unit.
So good luck with yours and keep us updated on how it went for you. As an after thought, you might be able to use some lube on the inside of the hose to help push it into place but you'll have to make darn sure those clamps are nice and tight afterward.
So good luck with yours and keep us updated on how it went for you. As an after thought, you might be able to use some lube on the inside of the hose to help push it into place but you'll have to make darn sure those clamps are nice and tight afterward.
You lost me about fabricating a new filler neck plate, I can’t picture it.
Learned a couple of tricks talking to ya’ll, need s need s new lock ring and no sparks, brass chisel/punch or Oak block. So it was worthwhile. Found a 3 piece set of Mayhew brass chisels for $45, will put a hard plastic tip protector on them from a wood chisels for set and try and use them as a punch if I can rotate the ring. If not may have to chisel it out. Ready to dive in but I know something is going to come up and be a surprise.
Last edited by Mjac167; Oct 9, 2025 at 09:00 AM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 217
Likes: 12
The 10,000-dollar trick is...
Not to drop the tank at all, or mess with the filler neck
I can get the pump / sender assembly out of a truck by just removing the driveline, and loosening the rear strap after removing the front strap
After the driveline is out you can remove the front strap
Once the front strap is removed you start lowewring the tank by loosening the rear strap
Screw it all most all the way out, that will drop that tank down enough to get up in there and remove the ring and get the pump swapped
I can replace onme in less than 40 minutes
That's how you BEAT flat rate, I used to make 20 hours in a 10 hour shift
Not to drop the tank at all, or mess with the filler neck
I can get the pump / sender assembly out of a truck by just removing the driveline, and loosening the rear strap after removing the front strap
After the driveline is out you can remove the front strap
Once the front strap is removed you start lowewring the tank by loosening the rear strap
Screw it all most all the way out, that will drop that tank down enough to get up in there and remove the ring and get the pump swapped
I can replace onme in less than 40 minutes
That's how you BEAT flat rate, I used to make 20 hours in a 10 hour shift
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 217
Likes: 12
@manicmechanic007 Are you talking about a midship tank in the E250? I'm not sure what @Mjac167 has. If it's a rear, or a midship. I was giving personal experience of my 90 E150 which has both tanks. Now my rear tank didn't just drop down even with both straps unbolted, because the tank has to be manipulated and angled for it to get between the frame when trying to remove it. Now if he just needs to replace the sender unit, he can lower it down on an angle but he'll need to remove the fuel lines and the connector first from the front of the tank so he doesn't pull or break the lines and wires. That's the way it is on my 90 anyway. I might be different on his 83, but I was assuming they would be pretty close in comparison. am I wrong??
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,267
Likes: 438
From: IL
It is that hard to get in there? You spooking me. I have got a new Gates filler neck hose ( them things ate expensive, $48, I could not believe it) but it is not vehicle specific, looks like a more general application and the bend and the location of the bend looks different. It is longer though, do when I get the old one off I will try and cut it down and get the bend and length like the old one. Might have to get a vehicle specific after listening to you. I am thinking a new hose will be easier to get on then the hard, brittle old one.
You lost me about fabricating a new filler neck plate, I can’t picture it.
Learned a couple of tricks talking to ya’ll, need s need s new lock ring and no sparks, brass chisel/punch or Oak block. So it was worthwhile. Found a 3 piece set of Mayhew brass chisels for $45, will put a hard plastic tip protector on them from a wood chisels for set and try and use them as a punch if I can rotate the ring. If not may have to chisel it out. Ready to dive in but I know something is going to come up and be a surprise.
You lost me about fabricating a new filler neck plate, I can’t picture it.
Learned a couple of tricks talking to ya’ll, need s need s new lock ring and no sparks, brass chisel/punch or Oak block. So it was worthwhile. Found a 3 piece set of Mayhew brass chisels for $45, will put a hard plastic tip protector on them from a wood chisels for set and try and use them as a punch if I can rotate the ring. If not may have to chisel it out. Ready to dive in but I know something is going to come up and be a surprise.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 217
Likes: 12
"It is that hard to get in there? You spooking me. I have got a new Gates filler neck hose" No need to get spooked, I have large hands and forearms so what's mostly normal stuff for others is always a little more difficult for me when it comes to tight spaces. You are probably right about the new hose verses old hose. I reused my tank hose, also Mine was a 2 piece hose where it sounds like yours is only a one piece. My rear tank is 23 gallon and the front is 13 gallon your rear tank may be larger than my rear tank. These are things to consider when talking a 7 year age difference.
your tank was bad and is 7 years newer, you got salt or harsh conditions or something?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,605
Likes: 2,679
From: Near Salt Lake City
Right, that is the midship tank that is easier
Those truck rear tanks, I still pull down, (partway) and the vans I pull the driveline or drop (sixes)
The rear tanks are possible to do with the filler neck attached and I just drop them down on an angle
The lines are the hard part on those rear tanks for me
You need to remove the lines to drop the rear tank down, and you need to drop the tank down (some) to get at the lines (bitchy)
Those truck rear tanks, I still pull down, (partway) and the vans I pull the driveline or drop (sixes)
The rear tanks are possible to do with the filler neck attached and I just drop them down on an angle
The lines are the hard part on those rear tanks for me
You need to remove the lines to drop the rear tank down, and you need to drop the tank down (some) to get at the lines (bitchy)
Last edited by manicmechanic007; Oct 9, 2025 at 09:32 AM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 217
Likes: 12
Right, that is the midship tank that is easier
Those truck rear tanks, I still pull down, (partway) and the vans I pull the driveline or drop (sixes)
The rear tanks are possible to do with the filler neck attached and I just drop them down on an angle
The lines are the hard part on those rear tanks for me
You need to remove the lines to drop the rear tank down, and you need to drop the tank down (some) to get at the lines (bitchy)
Those truck rear tanks, I still pull down, (partway) and the vans I pull the driveline or drop (sixes)
The rear tanks are possible to do with the filler neck attached and I just drop them down on an angle
The lines are the hard part on those rear tanks for me
You need to remove the lines to drop the rear tank down, and you need to drop the tank down (some) to get at the lines (bitchy)
My fuel line and what looks like an evaporation line ate attached to the tank with rubber hoses, so they should give s little bit to let it down enough to detach them.
What the heck do you mean when you say “ pull the driveline or drop (sixes)?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,267
Likes: 438
From: IL
Did not know all of that, mine is a one piece hose, so everything you said might not apply, it may not be as hard as I think. I guess we will find out. I just don’t know what I sm going to see when I try and pull that hose and when I drop that tank, that had me concerned, I don’t know if I will be prepared for what I find. That is why I am talking to ya’ll, learned a couple of things that could have prevented a couple of major problems. When I become expert at changing these hoses, I will come up there and change yours if you need it. New hose, little PB Blaster, might bend snd slip right on there.
your tank was bad and is 7 years newer, you got salt or harsh conditions or something?
your tank was bad and is 7 years newer, you got salt or harsh conditions or something?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,267
Likes: 438
From: IL
Right, that is the midship tank that is easier
Those truck rear tanks, I still pull down, (partway) and the vans I pull the driveline or drop (sixes)
The rear tanks are possible to do with the filler neck attached and I just drop them down on an angle
The lines are the hard part on those rear tanks for me
You need to remove the lines to drop the rear tank down, and you need to drop the tank down (some) to get at the lines (bitchy)
Those truck rear tanks, I still pull down, (partway) and the vans I pull the driveline or drop (sixes)
The rear tanks are possible to do with the filler neck attached and I just drop them down on an angle
The lines are the hard part on those rear tanks for me
You need to remove the lines to drop the rear tank down, and you need to drop the tank down (some) to get at the lines (bitchy)
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 217
Likes: 12
@Mike1, that salt must be hell. It would be hard for me to watch that happen to a vehicle I liked. No remedy? How about rigging up some sort of under chassis wash system and hit it every time you get home?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,267
Likes: 438
From: IL
There are ways to slow it down, wash it everyday in the winter, or spray fluid film or some other type of conditioning oil on the frame. But it slows it, it won't stop it. This is why I don't drive the van in the winter. I don't want it to get the road salt on it. The car washes here don't use fresh water all the time because it gets to be too expensive so they run the salty waste water back into storage tank that supposedly filters the water, but you can tell , especially when it dries on your car and you have white spots all over your paint, so now you have to go home and spray your car again with fresh water and hope it doesn't freeze the doors closed over night. LOLOL sometimes you really can't win for losing. In short if you don't want your autos to rot away, stay out of the rust belt country.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 217
Likes: 12
@Mike1, my goodness, how do ya’ll live with that, that would rip my heart out. You are going to hit a pot hole or a buckled street section and something is going to break.
Whose ugly hand is that?
Whose ugly hand is that?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,605
Likes: 2,679
From: Near Salt Lake City
There is a place west of the Great Salt Lake where they distill / refine and produce magnesium (Magcorp or U.S. magnesium)
The smoke coming from the stack looks like yellow sharpie
The cars and trucks that go there last 8 years max, and look just like that
It's depressing seeing and working on them
The smoke coming from the stack looks like yellow sharpie
The cars and trucks that go there last 8 years max, and look just like that
It's depressing seeing and working on them