I need to replace a broken out side window in my '63 F250. What's the basic process? I don't have a service manual, and I already have a replacement window. I've done them on lots of different cars and trucks, but I figured I'd get the lay of the land before diving in.

 

The regulator has a plastic roller with retaining clip that holds the window lift channel to the regulator that looks like this.



If you roll the window down and remove the large inside cover or map compartment from the lower door and look inside, you'll see it. By removing that clip from the roller then the regulator arm can be slid out of the center of the roller. Once you do that then the window can suddenly drop down so I usually already have placed something inside at the bottom of the door to help pad it like a large towel. I roll the regulator arm back up out of the way using the window crank like normal. Then you have to remove the 2 nuts from the lower division bar retainer just above the door panel opening so you can pivot the division bar forward slightly to release the window from the channel it rides. Then maneuver the window out of that same lower opening. It's a little bit of a tight fit but that's all there is to it.

 

Thank you! That actually makes perfect sense. I can assure you my first thought was not that it came out the bottom. I'll tackle it tonight when I get home. Maybe even take a picture or two to share with the class.

 

If your new glass does not have the channel on it. you will need to knock off the channel from the old glass and clean well. then buy some setting tape. and obtain a jug of kerosene. cut the tape to length, wipe the tape thoroughly with the kerosene. fold over the glass, set the glass on couple layers of carboard with the track end up. place the track on the glass and bump into place with a soft mallet or a block of wood, do not strike it hard, just bump it into place. take a couple rachet straps and wrap around the glass and sinch it down until it dries overnight. next day trim the excess tape off along the track and glass with a razor blade knife.

 

As expected, channel was laying in the bottom of the door. New glass did not come with a new one. Am I correct in assuming the channel should be set as close to centered as possible on the new glass?

 

What thickness setting tape? I see 1/32, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, and 1/8. Looks like 1/16 should be about right.

 

Some folks just use " friction tape, or hockey stick tape" and layer it in to the best snug fit.

 

Center it, and I would go with the 1/16" tape. put the coal oil on a rag and wet the tape on both sides. it will make the tape slippery to get it assembled. as it dries it will become sticky like glue.

 

You can slip the channel on the new glass and see what kind of fit it is to give you an idea as to how much space you need to fill with the tape. Some channels are sprung wider from age and wear and tear over the years.

 

I have absolutely no experience with this, but I know it is likely to be something I need to do in my future. That said, and reading the great info listed above, I have to ask if there is not a better way to get the channel to bond to the glass that does not involve a hammer? Here in Germany, from time to time I need to hang a mirror and I use two products, one, mirror tape, which one would think would be the same a two sided tape, but is not and has a strength that is mind boggling. The second, is a product locally called HB direct or HD 45. The Direct and 45, are the set time or working time. I have used both for various applications, that also include glass, there is also special mirror glue, but that like the tape os also about not reacting to the silver finish on the back of the mirror, so I am not sure it would be necessary.

I get the idea of the diesel oil and tape idea, but it seems very old school and I can't help but think there is a better way (maybe not). That said, I will add, that if someone does explore other bonding methods, use acetone or some other evaporative cleaner to clean your parts and the glass, as any oil might prevent long lasting bonding to the glass. Again, situation, but ask me how I know.

 

It is old school, right out of the factory service manual. The tape used has an asphalt substance impregnated into it. the coal oil melts the asphalt. and provides a lubricant to aid in sliding it the glass. Then when it dies it gets glue like. it also provides a soft bed for the glass to prevent it breaking in the future.DO NOT strike glass directly with a hammer. The window channel is spring steel, and will flex when forced onto the glass. always use a block of wood to tap the channel onto the glass making sure that the glass is cushioned on a cardboard pad on the bench or floor. I have used this procedure many times It works and last's many years.

 

This procedure sounds worse than it is. It is a little messy as the black asphalt will melt and get on your hands, so wear gloves. The rachet strap's I spoke of also help in pulling it into place and keeping it there until dry. Double sided tape will not work. single sided tape will not hold the glass firmly enough. anything sticky will not allow you to install the track on the glass.

 

Stonewalljac, Thank you. I didn't mean to criticise the technique, was just wondering about something new, maybe being better, but then again, if I wanted something new, I would not be driving a nearly 60 year old truck every chance I get, and preferring it to most of the rides offered today.

67Charger, please keep us posted with your progress, and results. And good luck!!

 

Did not think that, In all the new things available these days, with this design nothing I have found seems to work. The channel is not made right for a simple glue. I suppose one could use the modern glass adhesive. if you made a jig to hold the glass and channel in alignment and then joined the two by injecting the adhesive into the channel and letting it set up. It might work.

 

Stonwwalljac, The HB glues I was mentioning that we have here are somewhat thick and set up fast and stay elastic. The question would be, heat. Silicone is about twice as viscus as the HB 45 and about 10 time more viscus than the HD Direct. I am in no way saying that one of these products is better, I was just wondering. It sounds like the method you described does more than just using an adhesive, as it also aligns the glass to the channel, which as you pointed out, any kind of glue would not necessarily do.

I do like these food for thought discussions, and thanks for taking the time to share your thought and experience. At the end of the day, it's the experience that likely maters the most.