I discovered that my drivetrain angles were not where they needed to be.. So I need to add 4 degree shims to the rear springs.

This past weekend I dropped the rearend out of my 55 f350 dually. The truck has the original leaf springs, but a sterling rear out of a 96’.

The original main stack is nine springs, with a six spring helper stack. When I dropped the springs, I discovered that three of my shortest springs are broke. Both helper springs, and passenger main spring.

The truck is very stiff in the rear, and I will never put the weight that the springs are capable of carrying on the truck.

So I know you should never remove the short spring in your leaf stack. But would it be ok for me to cut down my second spring to short spring length on the main stack. Obviously I would remove the second spring on the drivers side to balance out. Would this be ok, and would it “soften” the ride.

I will probably get new short leafs for the helpers, because there quite a jump in spring length on that stack (8”).

Also, I plan on derusting the leafs. I figure 70 years of rust is probably more friction than needed, especially since there is scaling between leaves. I am thinking about putting some sort of coating on the mating surfaces, but not sure what route to go. I’m not worried if the springs become too slick. The truck did not have rear shocks, but the Sterling rear is set up to accept shocks. So if it gets too bouncy, I should be able to tame it.

 

This is the passenger stack minus the long spring.

 

There was an interesting thread on the Ford Barn about leaf springs. I learned there is a supplier called Eaton Detroit Springs that specializes in replacement classic vehicle springs.

 

I don’t frequent the ford barn, but if you have a link I’d check it out.

 

Eaton Detroit has been mentioned here on FTE too:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21609452

 

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352134

 

I can't say it's the "right way" to do it but I have made many leaf packs for my 4x4 rock crawlers from various spring packs I've had laying around. And they were also daily driven on the street.

It's a lot of work to R&I springs and pull them apart numerous times but really the only way to dial them in the way you like. The last set I did was back in 2010 or so and they were still a perfect ride (for me) up until recently when I went to a linked suspension.

I do clean and polish the contact surfaces. I do run the Teflon/plastic spacers if they have them and I don't run the overload (on my crawler). I do set bump stops to prevent spring inversion as that kills the life. Shackle angle makes a difference too. I have the local spring shop make me new U-bolts with Tall nuts. I made my own center bolts for the pack. Just because I didn't buy my springs, doesn't mean they are unsafe.

My point being, experiment with your spring packs and set them up to your usage. I like a soft ride and if I have to carry a load occasionally, I have air bags for that. It sucks to ride around in something that feels like it's a solid block of steel instead of a spring. Good luck with your project!

 

With 1500# on the truck, the ride was nice. Lol

It isn’t unbearable empty, I’d just like to find a happy medium. Suspension wise, the truck can take more than I’d ever put on it. I want to be able to put 2000-2500# on it max. But get it to riding as soft as possible empty.

I know it’s a 350 and destined to be a rough ride. And that doesn’t bother me. Just trying to find the “sweet” spot for ride vs load.

My wife on the other hand…..is more concerned with ride over load. Don’t get me wrong, she enjoys a ride in the old girl. But she always makes sure her female parts have plenty of support before we go for drive.

 

Edit failure

 

Just to follow up in case anyone is curious or searches this thread in the future.

I ended up removing the next to shortest spring in both the main and helper sping stacks. I used a flap disc in a grinder to derust all the springs and put a rolled edge on contacting surfaces. The springs were pitted pretty good, so I gave all surfaces a healthy coat of red iron primer. Then assembly the stacks and painted exposed surfaces black.

The ride height is the same, as the axle wedges made up the thickness difference on the main springs. The ride might be a bit softer, but nothing to write home about.