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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Hit a deer

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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 12:15 AM
  #1  
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Hit a deer

Hey all, been away from the forums for a bit, life got in the way. Just wanted to share how awesomely well the old '86 took a deer. Hit it with the LF corner, then it bounced and hooked its head in my mirror. It must have rolled 20 times once I finally stopped, then he got up and ran away. Bugger.

It doesn't translate to picture well, but the door was completely unfixable. Completely twisted into a U shape, even bent the regulator.


Found a "decent" door and a great fender. Pic of my Ukrainian bodywork in progress.


I sure love being able to fix something like this for a couple hundred bucks, rather than total off a vehicle.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 06:35 AM
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Sorry to hear about the hit but looking at the door it looked like it could be "suction cup" back into place other than that top body line as that is a sharp edge.
You say the regulator was bent but the doors do not have crash bars in them and that outer panel is pushed out into the window parts.
What the cup would not pull out a stud welder would do the job on the sharp edges. Same with that front fender, stud welder and pop that dent back out, a little mud and done.

Around here you cant find parts for our trucks and if you do they are most likely worst then what you got so you were unlucky and lucky all at the same time.
Now that the fender and door look like new when you doing the rest of the truck
It dose look good
Dave ----
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 10:53 AM
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Save the moulding clips! With the rust in the bottom of that door I see why you chose not to fix it.

 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 5starCabF-3
Save the moulding clips! With the rust in the bottom of that door I see why you chose not to fix it.
I did see the rust but you can replace the lower part of the door both inside and outside.
Rust

Outside

Inside

When you cant get good parts you make the bad part good again
Dave ----
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 01:25 PM
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Thats one thing I fear once I move out of the city to live out in the country. Its a huge reason why I want a roll bar for my flareside so I can throw four spotlights on it and aim it to light up along the tree line down the road with the hopes of either A) stopping deer along the treeline before they are in front of me or B) allow me to see them first and be ready.

Sadly the only company that was still making those bars have discontinued them.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I did see the rust but you can replace the lower part of the door both inside and outside.
Rust

Outside

Inside

When you cant get good parts you make the bad part good again
Dave ----
I got a couple rot outs in the cab on mine, one is up at the roof line where the A pillar piece doubles over the top of the door jamb piece. My plan is to use that eastwood coating with the long nozzle to spray and kill any rust between the two panels and then weld the hole up and grind it down and shape it. I got another hole that is on the A pillar itself behind the trim which is where my tiny pin hole rots in the door jamb area are from. Im going to do the same thing here but will temporarily after hitting it with rust encapsulator seal the hole with some silicone, when it comes time to paint the truck windshield will be out and ill weld that up then.

Door wise at work the body shop we used just replaced the doors with later model doors on the 5.0 coyote swap '82 I built for a customer years ago. Personally I dont want to do that I would do as you did however and patch what I have up instead.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 02:24 PM
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On the spray do the welding & metal work first then spray / coat the inside of the roof panels.
It dose not really encapsulate the rust like the brush on / spray on you can get from Eastwood as encapsulate is a paint where the spray with the hose is more like a oil filum and why I said do welding first.
I know as I have used both.
This is the Eastwood black encapsulate I used on the inner hood frame. I also did the underside of the hood skin and the underside of the front fenders.

This was done after I repaired any rust as the Javelin hoods are known to rust the hood frames.


I had 2 hoods and took the best of each and after a soak in the pool to remove the rust and repairing the rust on the good parts and encapsulate parts of the frame & under side of the skin I joined them together and painted.


I used the spray frame coating with the long hose on a buddies Javelin hood that was in great shape and we did not want to have it look like mine so I coated it.
It is a oily liquid type stuff and can drip into all areas and never dries. I have a can if the spray & hose somewhere for coating the frame of the Javelin some day.
Dave ----
 
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