Hello All!

New to the forum, wasn't sure if I should post here or the general Super Duty forum part.

I have a 2000 Ford F-250 7.3 4x4 in pretty rough shape, bought it a couple years back and parked it after som time. Now I feel I have the time, money and at least some of the skills necessary to get her back on the road.

Anyway, I pulled the transmission pan today. The transmission filter was hanging down a little at the pick-up end but I don't think that's a big deal since it's held in place by the pan? The pan is in pretty rough shape, the drain bolt has had a regular nut welded on the inside of the pan and the magnet part is gone, not good. It was assembled with way to much "gasket-in-a-tube". Now to my question, in the "sludge marks" at the bottom of the pan it looked liked the entire circumference of the pick up tube on the filter was touching the bottom of the pan, that can't be too good? I can't see any signs of the pan being deformed in the bottom.

My transmission is a PTO transmission so alot of the parts has the F81-P markings but the accumulator body is marked F6TP, I don't have a clue about the history of the transmission if it's been rebuilt at any time. I know some of the parts in the 4R100 is "the same" as the E40D, I can see one drum (at least I think it is) if I look up into the transmission from the pan, it's marked xx9A-H-E40Dxx, I cant see the entire number. Does that tell you anything if you're more familiar with these transmissions than I am?

What is interchangable between a 4R100 non pto and one with pto? I know that the shift linkage is different but in all my WSMs it doesn't say anything about the pto boxes.

Kind regards and greetings from Sweden!

 

Oh, another question that is a little unrelated but not too bad... My truck is imported through Canada and it is registered as a Tri Star. Does anyone know how to decode the vin number? None of the Ford ones work and I cant find much online.

 

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry I can't help with any of your questions.

 

There's an o-ring that goes on the end of the filter up in the transmission, and people have doubled up on those not realizing that that there's on in there. It can cause the filter to be out of place.

Also, the oem gaskets on the pan are considered to be highly reusable, so when you get it figured out, use on of those instead of rtv.

 

Correct about the o-ring, the old one was stuck up there but it was atleast only one. It had a steel insert inside of the rubber so I assume it's supposed to be a tight fit but I bent a screwdriver when removing it, is it really that tight of a fit?

Removed a little more today before rain made me call it a day. I'll keep at it tomorrow again. Now I'm fairly certain that someone has done work on the transmission before...

Some of the screw holes for the pan is stripped, can I repair that with helicoil inserts? It doesn't look like any of the holes run too close to any oil channels.The electrical connector for the solenoids is broken, deformed and the lock tab is missing. I've seen some pigtails online but prefer to repin a new connector so I'll try to find what's necessary for that. Some of the screws for the solenoid pack had damage on the threads from overtightening, I hope nothing is out of straight because of it. The metal cooler line at the rear of the transmission has a kink in it, not enough to completely block flow but certainly enough to restrict it some. Almost excited to see what else I find!

 

Yes, you can.

 

The seal for the filter usually comes right out. I install it on the filter tube with a little Vaseline or trans lube and push the filter into place. Be sure to get the correct length filter, a shallow pan filter would fall out.
'Must of had the same guy put your pan on that did mine, stripped a few of the holes in the case, I Heli coiled them with no problem.

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

Thanks for all the answers and welcoming! I’m sure there’ll be more questions to come.

Haven’t got a lot done because of the weather but I have disassembled the valve body’s. They have some damage and scoring in the bores but clean up sort of ok with some nylon brushes. I think I can get it to good enough to get it running and driving at least long enough to do a proper diagnosis on the trans and ESOF. I’ll keep you updated with what I find, maybe eventually someone else can find something useful in here.

 

It didn't take long for my next question... Some of the valves in the upper and lower valve body's are scored, not much to do about that I assume. But a few of the valves have almost like a tiny burr. How do I remove that? Really fine sand paper? Rub with aluminium foil? I do realize it's probably not a long term solution but I just want to try to get the valves to move freely and be able to drive the truck enough to do some testing and diagnosing.

 

I believe Sonnax has repair kits available for some of the valves. I don’t know any details but may be worth searching.

So the valves don’t move freely? That’s an issue. Personally I would probably try to clean the burrs with lapping paper (extremely fine sandpaper) but I’d be interested in hearing what others think.

 

Probably hit the burrs very lightly with emery cloth

 

I've seen some repair kits, I don't think it's the ticket for me since the body's are in pretty bad shape. Pretty much every bore has some form of damage, a few even has a shape worn into the end of the bore from the valve hitting it so I don't think those valves sit in the correct position anymore. In some places the bores are scored so bad I can easily catch a finger nail on it (the easy part is feeling the damage, getting my fingers into the bore is not so easy ). Without having the experience to actually make an educated guess I'd say it's been run without oil pressure for some time. Or maybe it's been over torqued so the entire bodys is out of straight. I'll upload some pictures when I get the accumulator body dissasembled too. The bores clean up a little with some nylon brushes, I'll try your suggestions for the burrs! I've gotten a few of the valves to move freely but when I had dissasembled and cleaned everything the only valve that fit in its bore was the manual shift, all of the others would have to have been forced if I wanted to assemble it again. The upper valve body also has some damage that I would maybe expect to see if I had dropped it on the ground.

 

An auto transmission can’t run without oil pressure because fluid pressure is required to engage the clutches and allow movement.

Bores and valves can be damaged during valve removal if there is debris in the VB. You might try flushing out the body before removing the valves from the remaining section.

 

What would happen if the transmission was very low on oil and one tried getting it in gear with the engine running? Massive slippage in the clutches? Is it possible for the valves to try to move with low pressure? Or do they just sit there since there isn’t enough pressure to get them to move? Is it the pump that takes the first / most damage from low pressure / oil level?