Wondering if any subscribers have this 120VAC/12VDC Norcold DE0061 compressor refrigerator installed in their rig and can help me with some troubleshooting. This is installed in a 2017 Northstar Arrow U and is powered by (3)105AH AGM batteries wired in parallel (315 total AH) and charged by a Zamp 340W rooftop solar array. This unit works fine on AC power and appears to work fine on DC power when in full sun or travelling and charging via the 7 pin connector. My issue is overnight when the standing battery voltage at the solar controller drops to a respectable 12.5-12.4 volts, well above the stated 10.5VDC low voltage cutout. The cooling fan will run and the compressor will run for 5 seconds or so and shut down and repeat the process in about a minute. Meanwhile, the temperature in the freezer and refrigerator predictably rises overnight. The cabinet light dims somewhat when the compessor tries to start. The standing measured voltage at the refrigerator DC connection matches that of the solar controller. All other DC powered appliances (water pump, furnace, lights) work fine. The refrigerator bypasses the fuse panel and is wired directly to the battery with a 7.5A inline fuse. I have not accessed the printed circut board to check input voltage there. The batteries are original to the camper, appear to still be servicable but are technically at the end of their service life. At this point I suspect a voltage drop issue at the printed circut board or an issue with the board itself. I'm looking forward to your input.

 

Make sure there is enough air flow around the compressor. When they overheat they start shutting down.
You could try to replace the thermostat.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Norco...-p/72-6231.htm

Those are what I would try first.

 

Thank you for the response. Its as clean as new back there, so there doesn't appear to be any airflow/overheating issues. This really seems to be tied to standing battery voltage, which I verified as accurate at the DC voltage input to the circut board. All splices and connections appear to be tight and clean. Thermostat seems cheap enough and an easy fix; just wondering if a bad one would cause the problems I am experiencing.

 

https://youngfartsrvparts.com/pages/...061-parts-list

The link has an exploded view of the parts and list. I wonder if the 15amp fuse in the top power board needs to be checked.

 

I wonder what the voltage drops to for the whole time that the compressor is running.

Especially if the batteries are tired.

It could be that, while running, the voltage gets drawn down to below 10.5VDC and it shuts off. This would also easily work well with the face that it runs fine while the sun is up. The solar system would then be making up for voltage drops.

 

I pulled the cover off of the circut board and the fuse in there is intact. This is a later version of this unit that has a single circut board that handles both AC and DC inputs, not the two seperate boards in the parts diagram (I stand corrected; there is a diagram furthur down that lists the later model) . I left it on last night under battery power. The ambient temperature inside and outside the camper this morning is 58°. Voltage indicated on the solar controller is 12.4VDC.The freezer temp is at 32°/Refrigerator temp is 44°, so it must have run at times overnight. I'm in agreement that the compressor inrush current on startup may drop the voltage from older batteries to below 10.5VDC and prevent it from running. I should also clean and tighten all of the spade connectors, as a bad connection there wouldn't carry the current required on startup.

 

An update: While the refrigerator was pulled out to check the circut board, I pulled the DC input spade connectors off of the PCB and tightened up the female ends. After letting it run for the day and overnight on a sunny day, the compressor and fan were running normally on 12.4VDC this AM measured at the solar controller with refrigerator/freezer temps of 37°/24° respectively. Ambient outdoor temp was 56°F. The relay also makes an audible "snap" when switched on, which I don't recall being so pronounced before I checked it out. I guess I'll call this an inexpensive win and hope it keeps working. Thanks you all for your input.

 

A loose connector would lead to extra resistance, which would lead to lowered voltage at the power wires going to the refrigerator. Makes sense that this would fix it.

Good find!